Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

At least a bleed valve would hold boost steady :P

I'm using a Turbosmart eBoost, in case anyone can offer any solutions or suggestions...

you could give your actuator rods a few mm more preload it will help hold higher boost levels... thats what i needed to do to hold 30psi steady, my base boost is now 14 psi with zero setting on my id3 blitz controller...

well done with those power levels so far...

hope this helps....cheers...

....More than enough for track work IMHO.

Now it's time to attack the car with weight reduction :P

:werd: ... As long as you are still making good power up top, i seriously doubt even guys with 400+rwkws will be able to match you coming out of a corner and have enough of a straight to catch and overtake between corners. ;)

Yeh now you need to rip off the HICAS, throw in some Kevlar seats and goa rac'n :headspin:

great results merli thats what we expect as well.

when does the boost start,and could you post a copy of your dyno graph,as i think everyone would like to cheack it out. how many kays did you put on it before the tune and who was it that did the tune if you don't mind?

dough boy do you think it could be the exhaust housing that could be causing the boost struggle.

another thing was that on the HKS web site they state that the SS's are ment to flow as much as the 2530,320hp each i think.

i don't know how true that maybe ,but i've also seen a HKS dyno graph the a set of SS's on a 2.8L and 274deg camed car pull 750HP at the engine!

has anyone SEEN! big figures from GTSS's.

Merli again great result

by the was we are using a blitz i-D boost controller if that means anything,seems good but it hasn't seen any boost yet so hard to tell.

merli, i had a turbo smart e-boost put on my gtr last week and its working really well, turbo's are spooling faster as its helps hold the wastegates shut for longer. make sure your gate pressures are set right, they tend to spike and fluctuate a bit if set to sensitive and make sure your over boost shut down is set atleast .2 bar over your max setting... see how that goes

I bought ours of Dough boy but i'm not sure if he will get anything more from japan otherwise i would have got them of nengun!

the kit comes with 2xturbos 1xexhaust gasket and the little hoses that you need and it shows how to install them as well.

i was just at supernats and saw joe but his RX-7 into the wall not a pretty site but he's OK.

his car is stuffed.

I just heard through the grape vine that merli/andrews R33 GTR which just made 300awkw just died at the race track, i heard that it threw a main bearing. or something i hope this isn't true as i couldn't think of a better drag, than a r33 gtr with the same turbos and the same cams.

Andrew can you tell us, what happened?

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...