Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

after removing the rear blades from my gtr turbos after only 700 km at 1 bar

thought that maybe a pair of s13 sr20 turbos(they supplly 170 rwkw pretty easy easch) ... which are cheap and have the same manifold pattern should go onto a gtr motor..

has anyone done it or are they too big for the gtr motor to spin

is it just a waste of time in the end???

and does anyone have a sr20 turbo floating around to see if it fits????

pete

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50396-do-s13-sr20-turbos-fit-a-gtr/
Share on other sites

The dump pipe bolts are different between a t25g and gtr turbo, also t25g's aren't good at all

in fact they shit

and for the extra lag you'll receive from running 2L turbos on an effectively 1.3L pumpage, it's not worth the time and money

Is your engine actually alright?

I mean, in most cases I have seen where a GTR turbo has blown the ceramic wheel.. there are signs of ceramic in the bore.

Need to get the mini camera out and check it before planning anything alse.. full rebuild may have you saving a bit more :P

How can it get sucked back in thru the exhaust valve. When the exhaust valve is open the piston is moving up the bore diplacing the burnt gases. When the inlet valves are open the piston is moving down the bore suckling in the fuel/air mix.

So i doubt that something in the exhaust will get sucked into the engine...could be wrong though

don't know mate... the more i think about something, the more I can convince myself that this may be the case lol...

I don't know if this is the case, but with intake / exhaust cam overlap, a small amount of exhaust could be 'sucked' back in?? Therfore, if turbo goes kaput, part of ceramic wheel could be sucked back in?

I don't know - like I said someone on the forums said this and I was sceptical as well

Is your engine actually alright?

I mean, in most cases I have seen where a GTR turbo has blown the ceramic wheel.. there are signs of ceramic in the bore.

Need to get the mini camera out and check it before planning anything alse.. full rebuild may have you saving a bit more :D

Hi guys, I have seen 8 X RB's with ceramic turbine failure, 2 X GTR's, 3 X R33 GTST's, 2 X R32 GTST's and 1 X R34 GTT and none of them had any ceramic anywhere other than in the cat. There wasn't any in the turbine cover or in the dump or in the engine pipe, it was all in the front of the cat. Blown there by ~200 cubic metres per second of ~600 degrees celsius exhaust gas, that's better than my Stihl leaf blower. :wassup:

Maybe if you were spinning at the time and the engine turned backwards, you might get some sucked up into the manifold. Of if you where starting the engine at exactly the time the ceramic failed and it coughed and ran backwards. :headspin:

I don't think so, Tim :rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...