Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I'm getting my car dyno tuned very shortly and the mechanic asked me what fuel i usually run. I said optimax. He said that they tested fuels and for the best tuning results it was.

1. Ultimate

2. Synergy 8000

3. Optimax.

Now i've done a little searching around on the net and it seems that it's a fight between Synergy and Ultimate for the best tuning performance.

Now to be vehicle specific with skylines... Can any1 post what they've had their car tuned to and what their mechanic said about tuning with certain fuels.

Cheers,

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

On 3 occaisions I have used Optimax and during all three my car ran like shit, It also caused my cat to stuff up.

I have used Ultimate and it seems great, although I always used Synergy without a doubt as its always been great with my car.

take it easy

Mark

Hi

I'm getting my car dyno tuned very shortly and the mechanic asked me what fuel i usually run.  I said optimax.  He said that they tested fuels and for the best tuning results it was.

1. Ultimate

2. Synergy 8000

3. Optimax.

Now i've done a little searching around on the net and it seems that it's a fight between Synergy and Ultimate for the best tuning performance.  

Now to be vehicle specific with skylines... Can any1 post what they've had their car tuned to and what their mechanic said about tuning with certain fuels.

Cheers,

Yeah thats probably the same order I'd use them as well. Ultimate is probably more difficult to locate but only optimax if I cant find the other two

I always run Ultimate but will settle for Synergy 8000 if that's all I can find.

Optimax has given me less than good results. It's a shame though because it's easy to find where I live but I have to drive 5k's to get Ultimate :cheers:

I have found Ultimate to be the best out of the

Ultimate vs Optimax battle..

I was once informed that Optimax is 'Up to 98 ron'

where as Ultimate 'Is 98 ron'

Anyway my advice is, pick a petrol and stick to it .. dont keep changing fuels or alternating between synergy and ultimate.

I have also found...

shit.. i forgot what i was going to say :cheers:

Currently using Synergy8000, was usung optimax for ages.....noticed the fumes (exhaust) did actually smell more, an the synergy8000 runs cleaner. Not really fussed between Mobil or BP 98 fuels, both seem to be a good product. But like most, only opt for Shell when have to.

Never had any experience with synergy, but I have talked to a couple of people in the know and basically what I was told was that Ultimate is refined to get 98 ron and Optimax just uses additives to get 98 ron. For this reason the Optimax will lose ron faster then Ultimate.

Everything I have read on public forums indicates the ultimate fuel to be the superior product.

But for some reason I get a noticeable improvement in fuel economy with optimax. Approx. 1-1.5km/L better.

I have seen many people mention the arguments about the optimax being "up to 98ron" and that it has additives to raise the ron level and ultimate is refined to 98 ron.

Does anybody have any documentation or links on the web to support these claims?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...