Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep increase in torque, also..

Viscous to Helical LSD

Different front bar

Two tone colour steering wheel and gear knob

Aluminum pedals

Darker rims (more GTR colour)

And i think that's about, altho i always forget something when i list the differences :D

cheers.

  • 1 month later...

The Series II’s also have a different turbo, Garret with metal compressor and steel turbine. Boost is set at about 900kpa and I believe the ECU is different as well.

Instruments have silver faces that light up orange, oil press and boost read in kpa vice kg/cm.

Center console is painted a bronze color and has the same radio options as the later GT-R. Shift boot is different and the shifter has about 10% shorter throws.

A good upgrade for Series I GT-t’s is to put a Series II shifter in as it is almost identical to the NISMO one and costs less.

Also the cover for the three gauges in the center has a better finish on it, more like the rest of the dash as does the center vent assy with the hazard button.

The power mirror controls are different as well. And the glove box does not lock.

  • 3 weeks later...
The Series II’s also have a different turbo, Garret with metal compressor and steel turbine. Boost is set at about 900kpa and I believe the ECU is different as well.  

Instruments have silver faces that light up orange, oil press and boost read in kpa vice kg/cm.

Center console is painted a bronze color and has the same radio options as the later GT-R. Shift boot is different and the shifter has about 10% shorter throws.

A good upgrade for Series I GT-t’s is to put a Series II shifter in as it is almost identical to the NISMO one and costs less.

Also the cover for the three gauges in the center has a better finish on it, more like the rest of the dash as does the center vent assy with the hazard button.

The power mirror controls are different as well. And the glove box does not lock.

ummmm

isn't 900kpa like 9bar?? that isn't right,,

on mine , car boosts up till 0.75-0.8 bar approx (10-11psi) (car is stock standard),,

also found out i "used" to have fog lights!!!! but they were removed because a c-west front bar was fitted in japan,!!! doh!!!!

also!!! there was a factory option of "cup holders" at the rear of the center console!! under the ash tray,,,

i don't have an ash tray or cup holders,,, just a plastic cover,, for both... hehe,,,

is ur engine bay bayside blue or is it a really dark navy blue (almost black)??, mine is painted the dark colour, ( so is demon dave's r34) ,, i can't see y nissan didn't just paint the engine bay blue,,,

still,,,,,,, Bayside Blue rules,, :D

Afro

ummmm  

isn't 900kpa like 9bar??  that isn't right,,

on mine , car boosts up till 0.75-0.8 bar approx (10-11psi)  (car is stock standard),,

also found out i "used" to have fog lights!!!!  but they were removed because a c-west front bar was fitted in japan,!!!  doh!!!!

also!!! there was a factory option of "cup holders"  at the rear of the center console!! under the ash tray,,,

i don't have an ash tray or cup holders,,, just a plastic cover,, for both... hehe,,,

is ur engine bay  bayside blue or is it a really dark navy blue (almost black)??,  mine is painted the dark colour, ( so is demon dave's r34) ,, i can't see y nissan didn't just paint the engine bay blue,,,  

still,,,,,,, Bayside Blue rules,, :)    

Afro

Sorry about that I meant 90kPa .......extra zero in there.

My engine bay is dark blue/black. I think the 2001 cars got body-color engine bays.

Funny thing is all the white, yellow and red cars I have seen have body-color engine bays, but the silver and light colored cars had the light grey engine bays regardless of year.

ya its really annoying having the dark coloured engine bay,, you wouldn't believe how many times i've had to say "the car was NOT black before!, the engine bay is Meant to be black!"

lots of people think that the car has been re-sprayed blue....

have u compared ur car against a series I?? is there any difference in performance? (acceleration/power etc etc)?

ya its really annoying having the dark coloured engine bay,, you wouldn't believe how many times i've had to say "the car was NOT black before!, the engine bay is Meant to be black!"  

lots of people think that the car has been re-sprayed blue....

have u compared ur car against a series I??  is there any difference in performance? (acceleration/power etc etc)?

Not many R34 GT-t's (only 3 I think) on Okinawa so I have not had a chance to "compare" mine against any others.

  • 4 months later...
Not many R34 GT-t's (only 3 I think) on Okinawa so I have not had a chance to "compare" mine against any others.

hey eharrald

can u confirm that the series II r34 has the metal compressor wheel??

is there a way of telling from the outside of the turbo???

do you know if there is a different clutch kit used from the series I??,,, since there is more torque in the series II (i know 20Nm isn't much,, but still u never know),,

i need to change my clutch and need to confirm,,,

thanks

Afro

  • Like 1
hey eharrald

can u confirm that the series II r34 has the metal compressor wheel??

is there a way of telling from the outside of the turbo???

do you know if there is a different clutch kit used from the series I??,,, since there is more torque in the series II (i know 20Nm isn't much,, but still u never know),,

i need to change my clutch  and need to confirm,,,

thanks

Afro

Hey Afro.

If you wanted to be certain your turbo had the metal compressor wheel you could do 1 of 2 things.

1. Take out the turbo and physically have a look or

2. Pull of the heat shields and look for the stamp on the turbo. If it says Garrett then it is metal wheel, if it says Nissan then it is nylon.

As for clutch, I'm not too certain as I have the tiptronic box.

oh ya just remembered,,

the series II instrument cluster ,, i.e speedo, tacho, the 3 guages etc all light up an amber/orange colour,, where as the series I lights up white,,

the A/C display still lights ups white on mine

were the sedans given all factory options (like a Holden calais equivalant)? i notice alot of people asking wheather or not they have a S1 or S2, did nissan actually call them S1 and S2 or is it just factory options? Also, why are there alot of variations of the skylines. ie: the 1998 r34 GTT sedan i have has 'skyline' in individual letters across the middle part of the boot where as some had skyline intergrated into the lower bumper. Another thing is that the sedans only GT shields on the front fenders, some have a GT-T badge on the back boot - below the right light. The interior instrument cluster and optional 3 gauge pod has amber lights (from what people are saying, its S2 that had them that colour but 1998 is an early r34 year so when did S2 skylines start to come out?), the rear seats have there drink holders and ashtrays and the driver/passenger have there own drinkholders. Does the vehicle ID plate state if its S1 or S2?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...