Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think this is the new craze because everytime i pick up a car mag i see at least one car with a flatmount or V-mounted setup. At first i thought this was to reduce piping and save space, but the lack of airflow would not make it worthwhile although its true that the engine would recieve better cooling. what do you all think of this setup?? i think ill stick to a front mount..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51234-v-mounting-intercooler/
Share on other sites

the lack of airflow would not make it worthwhile

There is a curve piece that you put between the front bar opening and the cooler. so that the air going through the front bar gets directed up through the cooler then out through the vented bonnet.

would actually have better flow than fmic because theres nothing behind it blocking the air.

also for shorter piping too.

Ahh "V" mount, actually a ">" mount, with the intercooler at the top (usually) and the radiator at the bottom. The idea is that they both get fresh air, unlike an FMIC where the radiator gets air already heated by the intercooler. The intercooler exhausts out through the bonnet and the radiator exhaust (as per standard) around the engine and out under the firewall. It also shortens the intercooler pipework considerably, in fact if you do it right you can almost mount the intercooer straight onto the turbo and the inlet plenum.

Usually to mount them in the ">" formation you need;

1. to remove the radiator support panel

2. a bonnet with a large vent

3. a suitabe intercooler

4. a suitable radiator with special radiator hoses

5. a radiator water header tank (to get the air out, as the radiator is mounted lower than the engine)

6. many hours of fabricating brackets, mounts, pipes, ducting as nothing would be off the shelf.

Have I turned you away yet? :rofl:

Have you looked at using one at all SK, is there real benefit????

The SuperTourer uses a similar concept for its water, engine oil, transmission oil and engine air inlet. They are all staged so that each one gets fresh air ie; not preheated by another cooler. The V8Supercar is similar but not as sophisticated. Works a charm but it is really a pain in the ass to engineer and fabricate, and it makes simple maintenance a real chore. Like try changing a radiator hose :Bang:

In an extreme racing situation it is certainly worth doing, but on a road car? Personally I think it's more for "rice" than anything else. :)

the idea of it is that it gets better air flow so it couldnt by its very nature suffer from heat soak.

In a race application maybe so, because your not stopping.

But out of interest, what about say normal city driving, stop start etc? Would it not have more potential to heat up then? Or is this a problem anyway as the pipes themselfs heat up?

I dont know, hence asking the question.

In a race application maybe so, because your not stopping.

But out of interest, what about say normal city driving, stop start etc?  Would it not have more potential to heat up then?  Or is this a problem anyway as the pipes themselfs heat up?

I dont know, hence asking the question.

Without airflow it would be a waste of time, the hot air from the radiator goes straight up into the intercooler. With a front mount thta simply doesn't happen as the engine fan draws the radiator hot air away from the FMIC. Which brings me to the next point, where do you put the fans?

as far as the intercooler is concerned the V setup is better as hot air rises, and all the hot air will go out the top of the bonnet wherre there's a vent above the IC. So even while the car's stopped, theoretically it should be better or at the least the same as a FMIC.

as far as the intercooler is concerned the V setup is better as hot air rises, and all the hot air will go out the top of the bonnet wherre there's a vent above the IC. So even while the car's stopped, theoretically it should be better or at the least the same as a FMIC.

Yep, but the hot air comes up from the radiator and goes through the intercooler and out the bonnet (ie; hot air rises) On its way though the hot air heats up the intercooler. That never happens with a FMIC, the radiator is behind the intercooler and the engine or electric fan sucks the hot air from the radiator, away from the intercooler.

In a > mount in traffic or stationary, the intercooler will quickly get to 90 degrees, which is the temperature of the air coming out of the radiator. It will cool down once you get moving, that why it is an OK setup in a race car. But a waste of time and money in a road car.

Oh and you should see the damage if you have a slight front end tap, makes a real effenn mess. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...