Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just reading through this thread and thought it might be of interest to others.

I'm currently doing a project where I'm dropping a RB25DETneo into a HR31 GTS-X coupe. My car was auto to begin with and I don't have the funds for a manual conversion at this stage.

I too was going through the process of trying to find an aftermarket ecu that would work with an auto. So I made a call to Mike at MV Automatics here in S.A. and have now got it sorted.

Depending on what type of gearbox you have he can get a shift controller made up to run the trans so you can use an aftermarket ecu.

He said that the tiptronic 34 boxes cannot be used as this was what cam with my engine package.

So what he is doing for me is as follows: I am using my standard RB20 box which he is fitting a stage 2 shift kit to and supplying the shift controller so I can use my PowerFC.

So I'm not sure if the same can be done for RB25DET auto boxes but it might be worth giving him a call to find out. He is in S.A. but he would send parts interstate as I think I recall there was a group buy on shift kits from him a while ago.

His details are

Mike

MV Automatics

1 Stirling RD Blackwood S.A.

Ph: 83700430

Hope that can be of help to some people

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've dealt with Mike at MV Automatics already for my Stage 2 shift kit but i was unaware they had a shift controller. Do you know what’s included in the controller and how it works.

Also, what is the cost?

R32's come with a separate ECU for controlling the gearbox but I’m not sure how much of a role plays the Main Engine ECU when it comes to shift control apart from communicating to the Auto ECU the REV's, speed and throttle position.

I've dealt with Mike at MV Automatics already for my Stage 2 shift kit but i was unaware they had a shift controller. Do you know what’s included in the controller and how it works.

Also, what is the cost?

R32's come with a separate ECU for controlling the gearbox but I’m not sure how much of a role plays the Main Engine ECU when it comes to shift control apart from communicating to the Auto ECU the REV's, speed and throttle position.

This has been covered a number of times, a quick summary;

An ECU to run the engine is easy

An ECU to run the auto is easy

Getting the engine ECU to talk to the gearbox ECU is easy

The problem is getting the gearbox ECU to tell the engine ECU when a gearchange is happening. And for the engine ECU to have the complex programming to know what to do while that gearchange is happening. The usual stuff like cut/retard the ignition so the load on the auto is reduced while the gearchange is happening. This enables smooth shift quality and lessons the load on the auto which prolongs its life considerably.

Only the standard auto ECU has this programming:cheers:

So is it possible to remap the ECU and retain the shift logic or it would be lost? If it would be lost I guess the only other option would be some type of a pigyback computer.

I'm trying to figure out my next step n this ECU thing has got me scratchin my head.

Any advice?

So is it possible to remap the ECU and retain the shift logic or it would be lost? If it would be lost I guess the only other option would be some type of a pigyback computer.

I'm trying to figure out my next step n this ECU thing has got me scratchin my head.

Any advice?

In an R32 ECU you can easily tune the fuel and ignition maps. It has no effect on the shift logic.:P

unless you have a r34 or a stagea with the r34 neo rb25 and ecu you cant get daughter boards . there is a guy in the forsale section who has something for sale but only he can tune it and workshops who have tried to get information about it from him have failed . What I think he is doing is taking your ecu and replacing it with another nissan ecu that can be chipped and modifying that for the r33 . There are a couple of places around that do similar things . But I dont know how those other factory ecus will handle the r33 auto , those workshops have only done manuals . in theory it will still work .

No aftermarket ecu will operate the auto the same as the stock ecu , all will have a degree of problems . Even NIB admited after direct questioning .

"Aftermarket ECUs all effect autos but we have had no real problems.

Worst case we have had is like a mild shift kits been fitted."

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...highlight=arkon

Your only alternative is to use and interceptor type of device such as emanage or safc . However as you are modifying the load data going to the ecu it will also effect the auto transmission to a lesser extent as it uses that load information to change gears .

So thats basically it , R32 or R34 rechip or interceptor , R33 interceptor

or manual conversion

I have read all the posts (several times) and I haven't seen anything that explains how the Wolf handles the igntion cut/retard on gearchanges.  The standard auto ECU has this feature to make the gearchanges smooth and lessen the torque shock on the transmission.  I have an auto Stagea and would really like to change the ECU but not at the expense of shift quality and gearbox durability.  So can you please enlighten me? :)

The upcoming new Motec sofware release will handle cut very elegantly, I am told. Also much better traction control and other improvements. Not even in beta here in the UK, but i KNOW it's in testing in alpha.

i have basic design plans for making an r33/r34 daughterboard on stock ecus. i guess this would help you guys esp if the software was available to anyone to retune

http://home.iprimus.com.au/darkhalf/nistune

badbiki was guaging interest for this a while ago but not much feedback and i have been busy with the tuning software (currently r31/r32 but will retune r33/r34) if enough people are keen i would actually start working on some hardware

  • 1 month later...
The controller itself costs $195, I'm not sure exactly how it functions but he said it is what I need to use an aftermarket ecu with the auto trans.
HR31COUPE - thanx for the info, i'll speak to Mike to see how it all works but this could be great little device for ppl wanting to go ahead with aftermarket computers and keep shift quality with Auto gearboxes.

I spoke to Mike from MV Automatics today at a motor expo & this 'control unit' HR31COUPE speaks of makes the standard trans behave much like a mechanical trans (eg. tri-matic/ powerglide systems)???. So, basically you have to manually shift the gears, with O/D off as top gear & it would be wise if you invested in a bigger trans cooler & upgraded valve body(shift kit) at this point.

He also, mentioned with the fittment of this control unit the lever select position display lights may not work.

The controller can be fitted on various applications, including the RB25DET. For day to day driving it is still bearably, but its an option more race orientated.

  • 2 years later...

I believe that most(if not all) aftermarket ecu's would be able to work with the auto computer, if there is an auxillery input, hook it up to the auto computer and set it up so the ignition timing is retarded when the ecuy receives the signal. If there isnt an aux input, you can hook the auto output to a transistor and ground the coolant temp sensor. Seeing a coolant temp of whatever that results in, set that load point to retard the timing, there is a section in the Autronic manual that shows how to do it, i just dont think you could do it with a PFC, maybe with datalogit

i didn't really think there was any "logic" to it as such imo, i thought the tranny control unit sent a +5v signal to the engine control unit, at which stage it would seriously retard/completly cut the ignition..

the tranny control unit handles all the "thinking" or logic i guess in sydneykids terms in gear selection via a map similar to the ignition or injector maps in the ecu, using RPM and engine load (from the tps sensor) to select the correct cell..

i think a better way of getting the power FC to handle the auto transmission would perhaps be to wire the ground from the coil packs +12V supply line through a transistor with the ignition cut wire in a fashion so that when the tranny control unit sent the signal it would drop all ignition, and when it had finished shifting ignition would be restored..

only problem i could forsee with this is perhaps running rich for the instant during the gear shift, however my mates auto r34 seems to give the odd backfire on gear changes anyway.. might be worth looking into?

  • 3 weeks later...
V500 Wolf just use one of the inputs and you can make the ECU do anything you want.

I just emailed Robbie from WolfEMS.

He said that if it is just a voltage signal (i.e. 5VDC) coming from the auto controller to signal shift, into the V500 AUX, it should be able to be configured to R&R...

so long as its a r33. you can run anything on it. you just need to suply the seperate auto ecu a tps and rpm signal. easiest way it to look at the wiring diagram of the auto ecu and see which ones go to the engine ecu

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...