Jump to content
SAU Community

your car coming into Oz..

lwells
 Share

Recommended Posts

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
  • Author
Posted
How long it takes to get off the docks is determined by when you;ve a paid the import agent and b been cleared by quarantine.  But if its more than 3 days you will have to start paying the storage fees

Yes, I am aware of how its meant to work, I am more interested in people's actual experiences though -- we all know nothing in this business seems to play 'by-the-book', hence the question.

LW.

  • Replies 334
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

ahh you mean in practice? just a day or two, as long as your payment is received and cleared by the importer, quarantine can be done the same day if it only needs a steam clean.

mine ended up 5 days on the docks instrad of 2 because it needed a bromide spray to kill some bugs. but normally 2 days

fatz Grand Master

fatz

Posted
Posted

lwells

after you have payed you just go down and pick it up

the docs are far better now then they used to be.. however expect to have several thing missing from the car anyway...

they wont let you remove anything when your there and only let you in for a 2 minute inspection now and only when you go to pick it up do they let you in to drive in to get cleaned, just speak to nath and he will run you through the whole process it isnt really painful at all just alittle time consuming........

fsmout Collaborator

fsmout

Posted
Posted

hi all...

What have people had stolen before?? i have a GTR to go on a boat on the 2nd of October and its got a set of Brand new Recaro's, and 2 gauges inside + turbo timer and HKS boost controller. I guess these bits and pieces are not the end of the world, but has anything like a frontmount or turbo ever gone missing??

cheers

raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

Posted
Posted

Time taken to clear from the dock:

My 1st car, thru a broker: 1 day (didn't need steam cleaning)

2nd car, cleared myself: 3 days (needed cleaning, arrived at the docks too late to remove it the 1st day, 2nd day removed it but had to wait until next day for cleaning and inspection)

I had a Bride seat in one of them and it stayed with the car, wasn't stolen. If it's loose stuff I might be worried, like gauges or shift knobs - I had my importer wrap them up and hide them in the car.

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
  • Author
Posted
lwells

after you have payed you just go down and pick it up

the docs are far better now then they used to be.. however expect to have several thing missing from the car anyway...

they wont let you remove anything when your there and only let you in for a 2 minute inspection now and only when you go to pick it up do they let you in to drive in to get cleaned, just speak to nath and he will run you through the whole process it isnt really painful at all just alittle time consuming........

Re: pay and pickup -- I understand that, I was more interested in the lead time people experienced in getting customs clearance and AQIS stuff done.

I don't want anything to go missing from my car, hence I want to find a way for the wheels to be put aside somewhere rather than just left hanging around in the boot. Any strategies people can suggest?

LW.

azza_GT-R Contributor

azza_GT-R

Posted
Posted

talk to your customs agent presuming you are using one and he should be able to tell you exactly the first time when your car will come off the ship, go there then and possibly secure them maybe using a chain and padlock and lock them to something in your boot maybe?

zymotic Experienced

zymotic

Posted
Posted

My 25t was supposed to take 1 week to get customs clearance but ended up being 2 weeks due to a mistake by the import broker.

I wasn't able to get into the car untill it had been cleared and was waiting outside for the compliancers tow truck. If u can get there during this window then u can grab stuff. Eg My compliancers would not let me have my space saver spare back, wish I would have grabbed it then.

Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted
They blaimed it on SEVS. When I went they had a collection of them. Stupid rules from pen pushers.

That is a new one on me, we took out the spare for our test car (91 model) as by the ADR's we didnt need it in their so we had one thing less for them to inspect.

But later model cars require it for compliance going by the ADR's and it had to be in the car for rego, it is yours as far as the law is concerned in many way's.

Mr R32 M-Spec Experienced

Mr R32 M-Spec

Posted
Posted

ok, I am now really really really really worried. I was slightly before but now I am panicking

the wheels wouldn't go missing would they? they couldn't leave it on bricks could they??

I have a set of Volk 5 spokes that look hot on it and are worth like 3K new according to a brochure from MU secret. apart from taht the rest is standard apart from the head unit. no gauges or anything

should I be this worried? do I ask the importer what day the car will be arriving here in aus? do customs call you to say the car has arrived come and get it?

I hate this waiting process, never again

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
ok, I am now really really really really worried. I was slightly before but now I am panicking

the wheels wouldn't go missing would they? they couldn't leave it on bricks could they??

I would say it's very unlikely that wheels actually fitted to the car would be a target. It would mostly be things easily removed and pocketed that would attract attention (gauges, gear knobs, head unit removabe faces, etc).

Mr R32 M-Spec Experienced

Mr R32 M-Spec

Posted
Posted

ok. I don't think I have anything like that in the car. it was pretty standard apart from the wheels. steering wheel.

I am anxous now. I don't want to wait. I am going to have to try and get time off work to go an pick it up and stuff now. thisi s going to be a hassle. work is a bastard, they don't give time off for anything

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
ok, I am now really really really really worried. I was slightly before but now I am panicking

the wheels wouldn't go missing would they? they couldn't leave it on bricks could they??

I have a set of Volk 5 spokes that look hot on it and are worth like 3K new according to a brochure from MU secret. apart from taht the rest is standard apart from the head unit. no gauges or anything

should I be this worried? do I ask the importer what day the car will be arriving here in aus? do customs call you to say the car has arrived come and get it?

I hate this waiting process, never again

Yeah, don't fret man. There is no way they'll pinch the wheels that are fitted to the car! LW is stressing about his wheels that will be INSIDE the car :D

You'll be fine :P

Richard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...