Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Im new to these forums, as i'm currently interested in gettin an R32 4 door GTS-t through the 15 year old import scheme. I have been looking around for a while now, and Yahoo Motorsport here in adelaide seems to have some pretty cheap cars. My question is has anyone from here imported through him, or bought a car from him? I have spoken quickly to him on the phone and he seemed a little short of time for a prospective customer, but i can't ignore the prices of the cars he imports. For example i was hoping to get a 4 door GTS-t with around 100,000k's for about $8-9k complied. Now most importers are charging that before compliance, whereas Yahoo are anywhere from 5-7k uncomplied (plus 1k for compliance). What are peoples opinions?

Thanks

Lee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51880-r32-from-yahoo-motorsport/
Share on other sites

Im not flaming the guy, or saying anything against him.

Do check however....Rust on the cars. Look EVERYWHERE. Ask him where he sources his cars from in Japan, (location), and do some research...

Cheaper cars arn't always cheap for a reason. Go see him in person, people are more helpful when you speak to them face to face.

He is known in the import scene...im sure there is info on here (SAU) and NissanSilvia.com

Do some RESEARCH....it always helps.

Thanks for the info Bl4cK32. You say about which area of japan the car comes from which makes good sense, but what are some of the areas that cars are prone for rust from in Japan? if you could give me some names would be good. I presume its costal areas that are the biggest problem, but then again, every australian city is on the coast, so one would presume cars here are a problem?!?

Just one other question i have, is about the difference in performance from the auto to the manual. The cars have 160kw, and only 260Nm of torque. I currently have an EF Falcon which has same kw, but torque is 100Nm higher. I know the skylines are a lighter car, but surely the lack of torque would have to make a difference?!?

With basic mods such as new cold air feed to factory air box, 3" cat back exhaust, what sort of rwkw would i be looking at?

Thanks for the answers to all my questions

Lee

Ask him which area, then find out about that place. Or just check the car over completely.

As for the lack of torque...the rb20 is a 2Lt motor compared to the EF (4.1Lt?)....off boos performance sucks after driving the rb20 around....do a test drive and make sure you can live with the power spread...if your going to use the 4 door as a people mover, make sure your happy with it...mine pulled well with 4 people in the car with the rb20...off boost sucked a little...my 2c

I reckon there was a thread on here last week about a guy actually looking at that car, from Yahoo. He had paid a deposit and everything, and took it for a drive and it was making all sorts of weird noises, so he told him that he wants his deposit back, so he was refunded his deposit minus $100 or something

as Bl4cK32 says, get it checked, even go as far a to take it to a workshop and pay for them to check it just to be sure

Cheap cars are always cheap for a reason

hrmmm, well after reading that story, i might just be looking locally, rather than importing. seems a little dodgy to me the whole importing thing. Can't say i would like to buy a car having never driven it. Even if its cheaper, still doesnt seem worth the worry and hassle

hes not dodgy AT ALL....i went out there and was talking to him for about anhour...he basically said he doent no what condition the car is in till it gets to aus and that its up to the buyer to check the car over completely before they buy it so they no what there getting and they dont come back later and accuse him of selling you a lemon.....whenever you buy a second hand car its up to YOU to check it over b4 you buy it.....and if you dont like it you get all your deposit back minus $100...whats shonk about that???

  • 2 weeks later...

i bought a 31 off him ages ago, the cars are very cheap.. You can't think about a car for too long or it will sell.. If your interested in a car then get it! If the guy that beat me to that black supra twin turbo aero is reading this... DAMN YOU!

most good import agents can organise a mechanic's report BEFORE you buy the car. especially yahoo cars as you can just contact the seller and literally go "oi, ohio gozaimasu, I wanna check out the car before giving you any money beyatch". Then you ring up one of your mechanics that you have working for you in that perfecture and tell him to check it out. If you're quick you can even do this before the auction ends. The mechanic report might cost ya a hundred bucks, but its well invested money.

he basically said he doent no what condition the car is in till it gets to aus and that its up to the buyer to check the car over completely before they buy it so they no what there getting and they dont come back later and accuse him of selling you a lemon
That's a sad excuse really, and if he got off his arse n did some actual work instead of tellin his potential customers to sign up to prestige and j-spec mailing lists and contact him whenever they see something interesting (which I've heard him say to my mate while he was on the phone). Come on dude, its 2004, its not that hard to hire a mechanic to check out a car on the other side of the world. We don't work on a pigeon courier system still.

Age old problem, how do I buy a 10K car for 7K?

Pay a good price for a good car, and you will be happy. How many people do you know that would sell a 10K car for 7K? mates, mates, mates, mate always knows someone, but in real life it just doesnt happen too often at all.

Good luck with the search.

I THINK places like morpowa etc do full mechcanical and body checks.

I got one done through RAA, cost me $165, and took him over 4 hrs to do.

But better off doin it at places that actually know turbo cars!

Spend the cash to get a check, saves u a hell of a lot of money in the long run!

A friend of mine got a car from yahoo motorsport.. didn't have any problems, however, this guy was pretty much a qualified mechanic and also gave the car a full respray upon arrival. If your really good with cars and mechanics then importing is for you.

I dont think he is dodgy, i think if you dont know anything about fixing cars then, john verban and importing might not be for you.. buy a fully complied one here.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...