Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

KTS adjustable control arms to suit R32 & R33 GTS-T

Billet alloy main rod with plated steel buckle and 18mm spherical bearing rod end. These control arms weigh in at 1050 grams each compared with the factory items at 1818 grams which are non-adjustable and have bushes that are prone to wear.

Comes with high tensile cap bolts, nuts and washers

These control arms provide more responsive steering and improved tighter handling and feature adjustable length for more caster and better turn in.

Our normal price: $395.00 Per Pair

Group buy price for 10 pairs or more: $250.00 Per Pair

More information available at the KTS website

ktscontrolarms.jpg

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

They do not suit 4 WD Skylines which have a bend in them and trying to source these. Theya re very easy to install. No dust cover but does not seem to be a prob. If over time the spherical joint wore out they can be changed no probs and option to get better chromolly and teflon joints, which are not cheap at around $100 or more each. Installation and wheel alignment is extra.

I have used the r33 ones in a r32gtr, not sure if the 33 gtr is different, all that is required is a spacer on one side because there is 80mm not 70mm inbetween the mounts, by using this on oneside, the arm is offset and does not require the bend like the std ones

Also the GTR's have wider bushes. I am communicating with KTS re these as they need wider alloy peices for the spherical joint loctators.

Yes confirmed can do the GTR and GTS-T and for same price. Cusco or Tein cost over $500 for similar item.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...