Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Winged/Gated sump is where the sump has one or two flaps which act as trapdoors to prevent oil starvation by the oil pump. Usually fitted by drifters and racers because the violent movement of the oil whilst racing adversely hinders oil pickup.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52561-busted-sump/#findComment-1035481
Share on other sites

If you have a RWD GTST then id stick with using the std sump, unless fo course you have spare cash tehn sure go ahead but i think there are other areas of the std RB engine that need help before the sump. LOL, also keep in mind that with a bigger sump a simple thing liek your regular oil change may add up to $100+ due to the capacity increase:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52561-busted-sump/#findComment-1035934
Share on other sites

I might be wrong...so call me stupid :)......

I think the engine has to come up or out to take it off...the oil pickup sits into the pan a bit though a hole into the bottom...

Bit of one of those jobs that are a pain in the butt.....like every god damn thing else that needs fixin :bahaha:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52561-busted-sump/#findComment-1036049
Share on other sites

Im not sure on the GTS models but on the GTR it can be done without removing the engine, however at the end of the day it will cost you around the same in labour. Involves pulling the gearbox off, removing the front cross member while holding the engine in place with an engine stand, quite alot of work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52561-busted-sump/#findComment-1036155
Share on other sites

nar u shuldnt hav 2 take the motor out, easier 4 gtr coz frnt diff goes thru the sump.

dnt quote me, but the last time i checkd, u jus take out all lil sump bolts (10mm) n the 2 reinforcing mounts on eithr side 2 bolts on box n 2 on motor eithr side (12/14mm soz cant membr), n the gbox cover plate to make it easier 2 get 2 bak bolts, may need screwdriver 2 break seal ov factory glue (dnt scrap hole in sump/block) n then a bit ov manouvoring around the oil pick up inside n the cross membr underneith n then wolah! off.. but youl proly find u might not b able 2 get 2 the dent, proly hav baffles in ther, but cant hurt lookn. GOOD LUCK.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52561-busted-sump/#findComment-1036156
Share on other sites

Ok, Ill take a shot at it tomorrow - Just a warning that I have no idea what i'm doing..

- Take out All the 10mm Sump Bolts

- Take out 2 Reinforcement Bolts (Located at the front?

- Take out 2 bolts on box (Where ever these are?)

- Take out 2 Bolts on motor either side (12/14mm) (Again, whereever these are?),

- Take off Gearbox Cover Plate

- Take out Back two bolts

Think thats what you were trying to say in your instructions :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52561-busted-sump/#findComment-1036257
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...