Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I was thinking of buying a R33 non turbo 1995 or 96 model. What are the prices im looking at for a good condition one? Im thinking around the 15,000 mark?

And has anyone had experiance with them at all, like are they a good enough car and ok power. Im just 18 and i cant have a turbo car, so this seems like a good idea,

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52689-r33-gts-non-turbo/
Share on other sites

If you get one make sure it is manual no exceptions and you are only 18 so it is a very wise decision to go for non turbo.

Cheaper insurace and less hassles with turbos being made to go faster so you kill your self...........

People could say dont buy a GTS-t as they are slugs compared to GTR's but we dont, we dont drive GTR's because of cost to buy and insurance so use the same rule.

My girlfriend bought a series 2 NA auto R33... excelent condition, for 18k about a year ago.... its a very reliably car, probably about the same speed as say a holden 3.8ltre v6 (VR/VS/VT etc..) so not SLOW but not super quick...

Only thing she has spent money on is service every 5-10k 50-100$, petrol, insurance and rego...

good idea not going for a turbo car, they cost too much to maintain/mod and insurance is a killer

i got a na 33. i rekon you'll get bored of it hey. Drivin around in it looks good, but u do tend to get alotta WRX's+ other lines+ silvias+ 180sx, just abt any other sports car, wantin to drag. I got bored of my in abt 2 months. Its a great car to start with but i wouldnt be surprised if u start lookin into a turbo a couple of months after.

again... very reliable car and you should have no problems. Not uber quick, but neither are most things around that price level. 145kw isn't anything to be sneezed out, but I guess as all cars get more and more powerful over the years can start looking a bit slower in comparison. The weight will be the same as any commodore, camry, or magna out there - and that is really what you should be comparing it against. It has the sporty looks, but the practicality of many of those other cars.

I would say actually $15k is the upper end, as there is not massive demand you can get a goodie for around $12k these days.

My mate got a manual GTS4 for $14k and that was about the only car that actually looked to have a *genuine* 70,000km on it or so (no scratches, no wears in any of the trims, etc). No problems whatsoever and he is very happy with it.

you'd be better off buying a turbo in the first place. could always just turn the boost right down and pretend it's an na :)

and aren't all gts4's turbos? rb20det's...

as said above the gts are to be compared with falcons, commodores etc. on performance... however the skyline looks 100x better :)

get a Silvia really fun car

I think u cound b ok with a Turbo Silvia 2L Sr20 or get a non turbo like me As for insurances it bullshit non turbos save u money i got Quotes on Silvia Q non turbo and Silvia K Turbo differents was $30

Insurances is HIGH CAUSE it is a IMPORTED CAR not that it is Turbo

I love Sr20's there sick as I have a Mate Selling a Silvia Q club if u want me to give u his MSN or number PM me it really well looked after he just Droped a New Motor in it Same as my one Just Blue not Silver

If you are going for a NA, make sure you get a GTS25 and not the GTS, the 25 has the 2.5L RB25DE engine, 147kw/~200hp whereas the GTS has the RB20E with 100kw/~130hp of SOHC 2L power!

The GTS is very underpowered for the weight of the car, but the GTS25 is about on par with 6cyl Commodores (~150kw from memory) and is lighter.

The R33 GTS4 is essentially a GTS25 with 4wd, but a bit less power at the wheels due to drive train losses.

are the gts models eligible for import? i thought they fell under the power to weight ratio allowed by dotars.

therefore all the non turbo r33's you see driving round are rb25de's

get a gts4 then when you get bored of the N/A you can drop an rb26 into it for some awd tt fun :cheers::D;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...