Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTST suspension

$$slowmedown
 Share

Recommended Posts

$$slowmedown Mentor

$$slowmedown

Posted
Posted

hey all

I am thinking about upgrading the suspension on my R32 GTST type m....

What is the best value for money way to do this?

- coil overs, sway bars, strut bars, etc.

Just buy a set of aftermarket adjustable coilovers? Or is it best to do all the

above (coil overs, sway bars, strut bars) at once?

The car is completely standard & I want to spend as little as possible.

How much i am looking at for a set of new coilovers? and where is best to buy them from?

Appreciate any input guys

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52716-r32-gtst-suspension/
Share on other sites
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Without doubt i think the best value susp upgrade for your R32 is a set of swaybars. I have Whiteline adjustable blades and was very happy with the improvement.

Id hold off on getting shocks and springs until you have some adjustment in your susp by way of eccentric bushes (from experience again i can say the Whiteline ones are better then Nolathane ones, i havent tried Notlec) as if you lower you car with new springs and shocks then you will likely have poor camber/castor settings dictating that tyre wear wotn be great.

So i think swaybars, then bushes, then shocks/springs...only my opinion though

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted

I went down the path of jap coilovers, adjustable front camber bushes and adjustable castor rods, alloy cradle bushes, HICAS lock bar and I like the way my car handles. It is quite low, probably a bit excessive (tops of the tyres just under the guards) but its ok

The only grizzle I have is jap coilovers are VERY firm in the spring rates (my car will lift a wheel up in the air if going up a steep driveway at a angle etc) Sometimes they are too firm, espeically if the road surface is a bit dodgy. I have also had to get my coilovers rebuilt, so they have ended up costing me more than new local shocks

If I was to start from sratch I'd get the bushes and castor rods, swaybars and then get some Bilstein shocks with some decent spings

It depends what you want to end up with and how you want your car to handle and your driving style.

For a instant improvement its hard to go past lower, stiffer springs and new shocks, jsut make sure you don't go too low and make sure you get at least some adjustable front camber and castor bushes

coco69 Experienced

coco69

Posted
Posted

nice thread. :rofl:

i'm running KYB sr-special jap coilovers with sustec springs, strut bar front and back, dialed off camber on 17" 235/265.

i found that going straight to the jap coilovers improved handling alot and the strut bars added ALOT of rigidity to the body of the car.

i can't sleep every night, because since my friend about 2 years ago got his dc2 type-r, which he has just upgraded to a jdm-spec dc5 (which i sit in and drive nearly every second day) he has handed my ass to me everywhere except for straight lines. i know i know, fwd vs rwd. they are made for that, esp. the type-r, but i still think they are amazing machines. anyway...

funnily enough i drive a supra with the same sus mods, kyb shocks and springs with strut bars and it handles amazing well. except it has major axle tramp so its need or some cradle bushes i think...

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted

Dunno what type of car places there are in QLD, for the strut braces there are quite a few on eBay that can be had quite cheaply, otherwise try have a look through the for sale section

Springs and shocks are best bought new, as they are a item that does wear out and you don't want to waste money on stuffed up shocks - money spent here now will save you heaps down the track

The place that rebuilt my shocks where in QLD, there website is www.shockreco.com.au they should be able to help you out. Last time I spoke to them they had a set of coilovers for a R32GTSt that they where trying to get rid off. Just remember if you buy shocks that you can't personally inspect, make sure they are for GTSt not GTR, as the rear shocks are differant

Good luck, if I spot anything I will let you know

Chris

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I've driven a R32 with whiteline springs/shocks. I must say I was very impressed.

The ride is basically stock smoothness but as soon as you start flicking it through the corners its sits perfectly flat and hasn't lost the stock oversteer feel.

The last thing you want is a setup that understeers. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • GTSBoy
      Coolant leak?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...