Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If Z33/V35 coilovers fit M35's, does it mean that Z33/V35 lowering springs will fit intoi M35 standard shocks?

They'll fit but it'll be no good; theyre not designed for the weight.

i've been reading and researching about v35 coilovers and if they will fit m35. I quoted the above posts just to know more about it, can anyone please calrify, cause if the spring rate is the issue, is that mean I can change springs and retain the dumpers right? - since that my Sister is selling her V35 with BC coilovers

I might just buy this from her and install it to my ARX -

sure the springs will fit, but they will be the wrong spring rate for an M35

unless the Z33/V35 is AWD, the coilovers will NOT fit. the front suspension setup is different to accomodate the AWD drivetrain.

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Hmm...I was watching Inside West Coast Customs and in one of their cars they were installing Pedders coilovers....I checked out the website and for shits and giggles I wanted to check if there is one for a Stagea

surprise surprise there is for the S2 I believe

1996-2001 Stagea WGN34 Wagon - 16-0174 Extreme XA Coilover Kit

wonder if anyone has used them??

Probably worth reposting this here:

http://www.skylinesa...gable-with-gtr/

From this thread (the stagea suspension thread) I gather a shock meant for a R33 GTR will fit the RS4.

Is it going to work well as a stock comfort replacement? I figure it would be stiff going on the GTR, but the stagea is heavier.

Any good local places to pick up replacements from?

post-46287-0-11872900-1347515421_thumb.jpg

auto's need r33 gtr front and r33 gtst rear shocks

manuals use 33 gtr all round

you can use the gtr stuff, but the valving is different and also worth noting is that getting stuff out of japan could land you near the cost of a new set of coilovers (which can be rebuilt, eg BCs are $75/shock for new inserts)

Thanks, Ive already fixed the rear shocks up with some new KYB's.

Im open to new coilovers on the front, but maybe in future. Need to get the car back on the road.

When you say the valving is different, what is the on-road effect going to be?

was wondering if any of the m35 drivers have used the cusco suspension.. otherwise il just stick with the proven bc's just thought id try be different

link

http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-comfort-zero-1-hyper-rubber-coilover-kit-nissan-stagea-m35-nm35-61387

was wondering if any of the m35 drivers have used the cusco suspension.. otherwise il just stick with the proven bc's just thought id try be different

link

http://www.rhdjapan....-m35-nm35-61387

I'm sure the quality will be fine; all their stuff seems to be. The picture is a stock image; that kit isn't for an NM35.

I did notice the listed rear spring rates are quite light; 5kg/mm. I'm pretty sure the BC rear spring rates are around the 9kg/mm.

Something to think about if you like to load your car up, or tow a trailer.

Cheers, Dale.

Edited by Daleo
  • 1 month later...

Any more info on that? Ball joints arent likely to be squeaky. Things like sway bars can make very loud creaking noises at the rubber mounts. Worn ball joints make dull knocking sounds if the ball is moving slightly around in the socket. Usually noticeable on rough roads where everything in the suspension is moving around slightly but constantly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...