Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have mca blues in my c34 for roughy 8 months. they are fantastic. Josh and his team know their stuff and go into explaining everything about it and the reasons why, they are aus made and wtac podium winners etc etc.

would not go BC's because A) Every car i have been in with them are shithouse and have leaked and lost compression rebound within 2 yrs B) do not have enough adjustment to handle stiffer springs and do not go high or low enough C) have to deal with people like mechanicalstig who want to rip people off.

what are you doing with the car to warrant the XC's?

That's the thing - im doing absolutely nothing. I drive around like a grandpa 95% of the time. Pretty sure I relayed this to sales rep but he was pretty firm I should go the next step from Blues & it didn't seem like he was trying up-sell but was genuinely advising the best option. Can't justify 2k though.

I had only heard positives regarding Bcs though.

i have mca blues in my c34 for roughy 8 months. they are fantastic. Josh and his team know their stuff and go into explaining everything about it and the reasons why, they are aus made and wtac podium winners etc etc.

would not go BC's because A) Every car i have been in with them are shithouse and have leaked and lost compression rebound within 2 yrs B) do not have enough adjustment to handle stiffer springs and do not go high or low enough C) have to deal with people like mechanicalstig who want to rip people off.

what are you doing with the car to warrant the XC's?

Not making a judgement against MCA; everyone that I've heard from raves about them, but your comments about BC's just aren't true.

I've been using them for more than 6 years now; damping and ride quality are perfect, and have been since day one.

No knocks, bangs, rattles; and definitely no leaks.

They've done more than 100,000km; towed trailers, gone everywhere.

And I'm not the only one.

  • Like 4

Not making a judgement against MCA; everyone that I've heard from raves about them, but your comments about BC's just aren't true.

I've been using them for more than 6 years now; damping and ride quality are perfect, and have been since day one.

No knocks, bangs, rattles; and definitely no leaks.

They've done more than 100,000km; towed trailers, gone everywhere.

And I'm not the only one.

I am only speaking from my personal experience from driving, being a passenger, and talking to other people at meets in all different types of cars with brand new and old bc's.

I did a few months research on what people thought of their suspension and I personally didn't find them good enough for the price. Some people weren't happy and others loved them and as you said, were fine and worked flawlessly. I couldn't find a bad word about mca, even with their higher spring rates it seemed the valving was superior. I didn't want to take a gamble on $1300 for the bc's.

The cars i drove and was a passenger in the bc's were rock hard and bouncy at the same time. This showed me the valving was not up to the task. Or a case of being height set from the base and hitting bumpstop, but still the rebound was not up to the task even after tuning. Most of the cars i was in had the standard spring rates the bc's came with (skylines are 8-6?)

I am glad i spent the extra $200 for the blues. I am also glad your bc's work great.

That's the thing - im doing absolutely nothing. I drive around like a grandpa 95% of the time. Pretty sure I relayed this to sales rep but he was pretty firm I should go the next step from Blues & it didn't seem like he was trying up-sell but was genuinely advising the best option. Can't justify 2k though.

I had only heard positives regarding Bcs though.

I can understand him wanting you to go to the next step. Having been in a forrester with golds, the ride is unbelievable. I was blown away with the diversity of the shocks.

You won't need anything special, blues would be fine with a comfy spring rate.

I can understand him wanting you to go to the next step. Having been in a forrester with golds, the ride is unbelievable. I was blown away with the diversity of the shocks.

You won't need anything special, blues would be fine with a comfy spring rate.

Golds in a forester? They'd be worth more than the car!

I haven't heard anything bad about the BCs but paid the extra $200 to buy local and for the support and service. The XCs were mentioned to me but I didn't feel pressured to buy them. Only thing I would say about the BCs for M35 is they are advertised as a coilover kit when the rears aren't a coilover.

Golds in a forester? They'd be worth more than the car!

I haven't heard anything bad about the BCs but paid the extra $200 to buy local and for the support and service. The XCs were mentioned to me but I didn't feel pressured to buy them. Only thing I would say about the BCs for M35 is they are advertised as a coilover kit when the rears aren't a coilover.

Haha you aren't wrong. What's crazy is, it's only a backup rally car. Tribeca engine etc etc

post-108100-14542313246259_thumb.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

I've got MCA purples (X-R) in my M35, couldn't be happier, they are comfy even on the hardest settings. The adjustability is great, my front subframe is almost scraping (I went too far and need to raise it) the rear is perfect and there's sooooo much adjustment left, likewise I could almost make it a 4x4. You can go much higher and much lower than standard. The only concern with MCA is changing the rear to a coil over raises the issue of whether the shock tower can handle the extra forces. Mine has been fine but I've only had them 2months. In saying this, the V35 and 350Z are similar yet they won't see huge weight in the boot like a wagon might. Time will tell.....

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Hey anyone know what size and thread gauge the flange nuts are that connect the front sway bar to the links ?

I just can't get them tight enough and now stuffed one.

Gonna try and get some harder ones

M35

I think they're M12x1mm pitch. 1.25mm is standard for a 12mm thread; I remember them being a finer pitch, with would be 1mm.

  • 3 months later...

:mad:Getting a bit of bad luck atm, I think my shocks are rooted.

After doing a tyre rotation the car feels very loose in the rear, skips sideways heaps over bumps.

Bumps feel way harder too.

Could be pressures,  alignment, maybe, but I'll get them looked at.

I've read Bilsteins are good replacement shocks retaining the stock springs.

Any other options. ?

Not interested in BC's or S tune.

Running out of money

Why no interest in BC's or Nismo?

I have Bilstein on mine, quite comfy especially considering the 245/40/19 tyres.

Have you checked out the suspension thread? It was created quite a while ago, but most should still be available.

Don't really want to drop 2K now on suspension inc install.

I like the stock set up, knowing my luck if I do BC or S tune my mounts will rip on the first day

Just want shocks.

Still sorting out rough rev, rocker cover oil leaks and tailgate problems

Rip your mounts? Are they rusted of something? Maybe a short strut with longer springs would put undue stress on the upper mounts but a matched spring/strut combo should be fine.

Perhaps look at the Nismo's in the classifieds at the moment. Whilst I have never dealt with him before, Fatz seems reputable and a no-BS kind of guy, pretty sure if they are in poor condition he would say as much.

Can confirm that S-Tunes are a very good setup - had them on my old NM35.

47 minutes ago, iamhe77 said:

Rip your mounts? Are they rusted of something? Maybe a short strut with longer springs would put undue stress on the upper mounts but a matched spring/strut combo should be fine.

Perhaps look at the Nismo's in the classifieds at the moment. Whilst I have never dealt with him before, Fatz seems reputable and a no-BS kind of guy, pretty sure if they are in poor condition he would say as much.

Can confirm that S-Tunes are a very good setup - had them on my old NM35.

I've seen the ones fatz has for sale; they're spot on.

  • 2 months later...

Hi all,

The suspension in my 2001 ARX is cactus, shocks are gone. Previous owner has put in NISMO springs I think (red springs?) so it already has a lower ride height than standard ARX - which is fine for my use.

I thought now would be a good time to invest in some BC's. Purchased these from JustJap - they got delivered in under 24 hours, I was pretty impressed. Ordered at 5pm, arrived at 4:30pm the next day!

As I understand it, I read I need to get a couple of 3mm washers to go in-between the fork for the rears? Did anyone have more info on this? Was there any other tips & tricks that people were aware of before these bad boys go in?

Also, does anyone have any recommendations on height/stiffness settings? I'm looking for a comfortable-ish ride, not too harsh, and also not too low - there are a lot of speed bumps around these days - it'd be nice not to have to lebo roll everywhere :) Just hoping any recommendations on this may save some time faffing around on my end.

Thanks all!

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys, I have the adjustable tein suspension on my axis which comes up with an error on the electronic dampner force controller.

I'm keen to get it looked at by an auto electrician, would it be worth it? Most of the wires connected to the motors are pretty ratty...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...