Jump to content
SAU Community

ATTESSA - what do i fill the reservoir with... and where to get it?

Ronin 09

By Ronin 09,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
My ATTESSA reservoir in the boot of my 32 is low... what fluid is it (and don't say it is ATTESSA fluid!) and where can i buy it? Is it a tranny oil or a P/S oil or none of the above?

Cheers

Accordng to the factory WS manual it uses "Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special"

At a pinch you could use ATF.

  • 2 months later...
lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted

Most people use a Dexron III compliant ATF for the actuator. Technically, your not meant too: you should use only Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special (NPSFS) according to some heavyweight at Nissan Japan.

Speaking to SydneyKid, he said the only reason for this is because NPSFS is designed with snow/ice condition in mind.

Anyway, I was just wondering if anyone actually managed to find NPSFS and how much it cost (for interests sake).

LW.

Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

The Nissan Special Power Steering Fluid is Nissan Matic D which is their ATF. I got a few litres of it for $20 from Nissan spare parts in Canberra. I cant remember exactly how much it was as it was 12+ months ago now.

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted

What is the best way to bleed the actuator oil?

For interest sake, here is what the guy from Nissan Japan had to say:

1. Transfer case fluid

Nissan Matic D is strongly requested because high torque is applied to

transfer unit.

2.. Transfer case (ATTESA E-TS-PRO Actuator) : It is not acceptable to use

DEXRON III fluid.

> Only Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special use is required.

Today I received the technical information from our design department.

1. The difference between the DEXRON III and Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special

The viscosity characteristic of Power Steering Fluid Special is lower than that of ATF DEXRON III and the resistance to wear is also improved. Each viscosity is the same level at 100 deg.C and the former viscosity is designed to have the lower value for under 100 deg.C than the latter viscosity.

This characteristic is aimed to rotate an oil pump located in ATTESA PRO actuator easily at the extremely low temperature (Around -30 deg.C or -40 deg.C)

2. What will happen if a customer puts DEXRON II or DEXRON III into the ATTESA PRO actuator reservoir in the trunk ?

The 4WD performance will be largely decreased at the low temperature because the viscosity value of DEXRON II or III is extremely high compared to that of Power Steering Fluid Special; As the rising characteristic of 4WD torque transfer becomes worse, it takes the longer time to transfer the driving torque to the front wheels. There is a possibility that the 4WD cannot be achieved in the worst case.

Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted
My understanding is that Matic D is "Nissan Power Steering Fluid"; "Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special" is different again.

LW.

Nissan Matic D is Nissan Special Power Steering Fluid. Ill find the bottle if I still have it and take a photo.

Its what Nissan reccomend to use, its easily obtainable, its not stupidly expensive so I dont see any reason as to why youd use something else.

  • 7 months later...
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

There are 2 bleed points. Put the car up on stands and start the engine.

The first bleeder is at the rear of the transfer case it will bleed itself when the nipple is opened. The second bleed point is much tricker it is above the half shaft right up on the chasis.

Stronzo Collaborator

Stronzo

Posted
Posted

Nissan Matic D (Dexron II/III analog as i think), Nissan PSF and Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special are different fluids.

See http://www.nissan-sp.co.jp/oil/ for details, there are some pics of OEM fluids on this page. It`s written in japaneese, use online translators for reading.

The p/n for Nissan PSF Special also known as "attesa operating fluid" is: KLF30-00001 or KLF30-00004 (the last figure is for can capacity in liters).

While preparing to manual conversion I`ve ordered 4l of this fluid at auto.vl.ru -- i`m not sure this link can be usefull outside of Russia, but you can try to order it somewhere in Japan using the right partnumber.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

no the wheels don't need to turn the atessa pump has pressure as long as the engine is running.

And for what its worth we just use a synthetic auto trans fluid and it has always worked fine including races and targa tas

viking Collaborator

viking

Posted
Posted

i hav a r33 gtr and a-lsd light turned on, i had to turn the car off n on again for it to go away. this happened once in a while then more often. i gather it was getting worse until it just stayed on. found out that the pump was dead, openened it up to find the one of the magnets was broken and three of the four brushes were completely worn out.

i bought a second hand unit which fixed the problem but it started to hav the same symtoms again. i gather that the replacement unit is also 10years old and cant be much better than my old one.

i hav rung up nissan and nearly died when they told me its gonna cost nearly 6 THOUSAND dollars !!!! just to buy that part.. my problem is i cant find any place here in melb or australia who can repair it.

i also noticed sumtimes when u turn the key to acc i can here the 4wd relay ticking endlessly.

will try to plug in dianostics but unsure if that can identify any problems or electrical faults.

any suggestions ????? confused....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...