Jump to content
SAU Community

Problem when the engine is cold!!!

SkyHyeR34

By SkyHyeR34,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SkyHyeR34 Rookie

SkyHyeR34

Posted
Posted

I hav a problem with my car ever since i installed da apexi s-afc II...ok da problem is wen i start da car wen da engine is cold it starts but da rpm reads only 400-450 and its like its gonna stall but doesnt and wat i noticed id that da boost gauge is reading boost on 0 but da car is only on idle how could da boost gauge read 0. i thought it was da apexi s-afc II but i had it tuned n da problem is still there.

ok wen i drive da car n da engine gets warm da problem goes away. its only seems 2 happen wen da engine is cold. can anyone help????

my mods r:

hks bov

full exhaust

pod

apexi s-afc II

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54317-problem-when-the-engine-is-cold/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted
I hav a problem with my car ever since i installed da apexi s-afc II...ok da problem is wen i start da car wen da engine is cold it starts but da rpm reads only 400-450 and its like its gonna stall but doesnt and wat i noticed id that da boost gauge is reading boost on 0 but da car is only on idle how could da boost gauge read 0. i thought it was da apexi s-afc II but i had it tuned n da problem is still there.  

ok wen i drive da car n da engine gets warm da problem goes away. its only seems 2 happen wen da engine is cold. can anyone help????

my mods r:

hks bov

full exhaust

pod

apexi s-afc II

Yes! I can help.

The word is "the", not "da"

"Hav" should have an "e" on the end

"gonna" should be "going to"

"wen" should have an "h" in it

"doesnt" has an appostraphe to indicate that "not" has been shortened.

"wat" should also have an "h" in it

"id" should be "is"

There should be a comma after "idle", and a question mark after "boost gauge read 0"

Sentences should start with a capital letter

"i" should also be a captial

"2" should read "to" in this case

"r" should be "are"

Hope that helps :(

riceline Community Regular

riceline

Posted
Posted

translation

I have a problem with my car ever since I installed a apexi s-afc II...OK the problem is when I start the car when the engine is cold it starts but the rpm only reads 400-450 and seems that it is going to stall but doesn't and what I noticed is that the boost gauge is reading boost on 0 but the car is only at idle how could the boost gauge read 0? I thought it was the apexi s-afc II but I have had it tuned and the problem is still there.

When I drive the car and the engine warms up the problem goes away. It only seems to happen when the engine is cold.

can anyone help?

my mods are:

HKS bov

full exhaust

pod

apexi s-afc II

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
It can't be the fuel mixture because I got the Apexi S-AFC II and I had it tuned on the dyno.

It must be something else....but I have no idea what!

Do you have any other suggestions?

If you "have no idea what", then why can't it be a fuel mixture problem? You don't tune "cold start" fuelling on a dyno. It appears to be a cold start fuelling problem.

Is the boost gauge supposed to read anything less than 0. If not, then it will always read 0 at idle - boost doesn't generally happen until at least 2000 rpm, and then only when the car is being motivated. (It's possible to actually rev the engine to red line in neutral, and get no boost.) If it is supposed to read something less than 0, then it could be some sort of air leak, but I expect that an air leak that produced no vacuum in the manifold would prevent the engine from running at all.

It could be the cold start valve not opening up when cold. It's located under the throttle body on RB20DETs, and under the inlet manifold on RB25DETs.

Duncan, riceline,

Thanks for the translation

(oh, and it's "apostrophe")

2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted

elk, boost guage should be reading vaccuum at idle - i.e. negative not "0".

Go to another tuner and ask them to fix it the following morning. i.e. leave it with them over night and get them to check what sounds like cold-start fuelling compensation problems.

Adrian

xRHETTx Mentor

xRHETTx

Posted
Posted

Maybe the hose from the manifold to the boost guage has come off? That won't help idling much, there is air being lost that the AFM has already taken account of. THis happened with my R32, the hose had split and blown off.

joh21m Collaborator

joh21m

Posted
Posted
If you "have no idea what", then why can't it be a fuel mixture problem? You don't tune "cold start" fuelling on a dyno. It appears to be a cold start fuelling problem.

Is the boost gauge supposed to read anything less than 0. If not, then it will always read 0 at idle - boost doesn't generally happen until at least 2000 rpm, and then only when the car is being motivated. (It's possible to actually rev the engine to red line in neutral, and get no boost.) If it is supposed to read something less than 0, then it could be some sort of air leak, but I expect that an air leak that produced no vacuum in the manifold would prevent the engine from running at all.

It could be the cold start valve not opening up when cold. It's located under the throttle body on RB20DETs, and under the inlet manifold on RB25DETs.

Duncan, riceline,

Thanks for the translation

(oh, and it's "apostrophe")

how do you get this cold start valve to open? do you have to clean it out or something?

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

I think it's actually open, and then closes. Current is supplied to a bi-metallic strip that causes a "door" to gradually close off.

/edit: had a look at one on a spare manifold, it's normally closed, and will open when current is applied, just like a choke on a carburettor.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
...there is air being lost that the AFM has already taken account of...
No, it's actually pulling air that the AFM doesn't know about, causing leaning out of the mixture. Generally when cold, the engine needs to run richer - that's what a choke does in a carburettored engine.
SkyHyeR34 Rookie

SkyHyeR34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Maybe the hose from the manifold to the boost guage has come off? That won't help idling much, there is air being lost that the AFM has already taken account of.  THis happened with my R32, the hose had split and blown off.

I have checked the hose from the manifold and its fine. I knew it wasn't the hose because my idle is fine. I think I will just get the Power FC because it will fix my problem and give me MUCH more performance out of my car. Plus its an excuse to modify my car..hehehehe

:P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just_a_datsun
      RB26 block, rb26 head

      By Just_a_datsun · Posted

      Block bump. $400. As above cyl 6 needs bore or sleeve.
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I would think making the argument that the travel is limited by a spring flexing against a spring perch as "the same method". Later on in the document they do state that the spring can't bind on full bump travel and cannot come loose in full rebound travel as well. (which is all very sensible). The laws are actually pretty sensible and reasonable. It's just that the people who enforce and check them don't actually read them or know them accurately. "Oh, coilovers? Instant fail mate. Don't even need to look at it." - Guy who will be instantly reported by me. There is probably merit to people who do get defected for height also get defected for the suspension in that state that allows it. I did never consider the people who are complaining about coilovers being picked on are also running around at 50mm off the floor.
    • Kinkstaah
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I think given SAU's knowledge of E85 we can strongly conclude that 10% ethanol in almost any situation is entirely fine. Almost all of the myths against E85 were overblown, let alone E10.
    • The Bogan
      Blue slip

      By The Bogan · Posted

      From your link See bold text, is this referring to damper settings, if so that may a issue for "some" inspectors, I cannot see aftermarket coilovers having the evidence that "must be available that its functional performance is equivalent to the original" Maybe just remove the adjustment knows and hope for the best???? Meh 5.2 Suspension travel In all instances, modifications to a vehicle’s suspension must ensure the integrity of the system and not compromise the ride quality. At least two thirds of the original suspension travel should be maintained in both directions (rebound (i.e. extension) and bump (i.e. compression)), and rebound must be limited by the same method used by the vehicle manufacturer or if this is not practicable due to the nature of the modification, an equivalent method. If an alternative method is used, evidence must be available that its functional performance is equivalent to the original.
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      They actually don't - They adhere to VSB14 rules just like Victoria. The rules are against CABIN adjustable height, and it quite clearly states that the height has to be within parameters. I asked the VASS engineer to confirm this when I got my car engineered and they refused to engineer the coilovers because they didn't meet the requirements for requiring engineering. (mine are height adjustable.) People "Not wanting to bother" with "Actually reading/knowing/adhering to the rules" should result in fines and immediately losing the ability to issue blue slips and/or RWC's in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...