The Wasteland - ACT Style

[Manuel Kasko]

Hypergear SS1PU cost around $1300

Direct bolt in that you could do yourself if you felt confident.

Water lines are a bitch though

[D.I.Y. Mik]

More power? Can you use what you already have?

What diff do you have? If its viscous, it has to get swapped for something good, and thats expensive.

Also, think about what can be used on both gtst and gtr, too keep and swap over later. You must keep stock parts to put back on rosie when you sell for a gtr.

EVERYTHING except dyno tuning can be done at home. save $$$

Simple is cheaper and more reliable. For example: electronic boost controllers are an unreliable expensive waste of time. Get an actuator at the right psi, its reliable.

Dont get bov's and rubbish like that.

Also things like Deatchwerks fuel pumps and injectors are great for diy as they dont need mods to fit. A bosch or walbro needs f-ing around to fit.

Thats why people like hi-flow turbo's as they are the same turbo, with different internals. They are real easy to fit, same lines, manifold, pipe etc.

Not f-ing around to fit things is also cheaper.

So what do you want? What can you afford? How are you going to do it?

PLAN well and RESEARCH. Dont forget the details, the devils in the details. Or pay too much $$$$

I can always can help with doing stuff, im in belco too.

[Sinista32]

cost me just under $3.5k for 245rwkws, 18psi on 98 - R34GTT

Highflow OP6 with GT2871 CHRA

650cc Injectors - $200 (4000kms old)

Z32AFM - $200 (near new in FS)

Nistune DB fitted with Tune - $1200 - New

Metal Intake (ScottyNM35) - $260 - New

All labour including Turbo off, highflowed, chra and refitted - $1500 - New

Wahlbro Fuel pump $131

Power/pull is very good, very usable. On early 2100rpm

awesome every day'er with great poke to make you grin when foot depressed. quick !

Did a couple of take-offs on the way to Robertson. Felt awesome. 170kmph came up very quick so backed-off.

Rob - what did you think ?

Car already had Splitfires, return flow FMIC, pod. None of these have any bearing on results.

- Autotransmission

Edited September 19, 2013 by Sinista32

[RosieR34]

Jeremy

Check out my sig

It has all the parts I needed to achieve a good 250rwkw street car.

I'm going to be swapping all the parts into my 34 when I purchase it.

SS1PU hypergear is a monster and makes 20psi by 3500rpm and pulls hard.

If you wanted to go even more response then you could step down a turbo and go e85 to push 250 out of a smaller highflow.

If you get a Hypergear turbo then you get a discount on an adaptronic ECU ($1100 I do believe).

This I believe supports not having to use an AFM so you can cross that off your list and save $200-300

That does sound awesome - Cheers ! will check it out.

Edit: Thanks Mik and Richard.

@Mik - I'm a little hesitient to do backyardy jobs - but for the jobs I can get my bro in law to do will be of good quality. DIY Rosie ! SUP !

Your setup Richard seems what I am aiming for. 245kW would be awesome - also $3.5k ! Would I need a HD clutch?

Edited September 19, 2013 by RosieR34

[Sinista32]

you need one anyway I think from some of you other posts. May as well go single plate HD

- Twin plate will give you greater surface at not much additional cost so can provide greater headroom.

but no - not unless your launching a lot and using it in race conditions/attitude (just my opinion)

Edited September 19, 2013 by Sinista32

[dontyellpl0x]

Hypergear is a very attractive option for responsiveness and drivability. I plan on going down that path

[Sinista32]

PS. New clutch can be over $2k fitted

[RosieR34]

PS. New clutch can be over $2k fitted

:'(

[D.I.Y. Mik]

There you go, what Richard has.

Thats most of your research done, cool.

Personally id swap the injectors and pump for the Deatchwerks, cos id diy. And they just plug straight in.

That turbo option is bolt on, no mods, easy diy.

Nistune can be installed if you send it to him in SA, not much saving if any, tuning is the big cost. Actually $1200 all up is slightly cheaper.

Z32 is EASY PEASY. Its just some soldering wires in the new plug. theres photos of which wires to do. This is one you can do.

The clutch is VERY annoying and difficult, but it cost me about $550 diy. Its only fun for the fools like me.

Exhaust? That might help with power, can be real cheap too. Just remember...stainless is a waste of money, steel is fine, usually better.

[Got a Pulsar]

From what I've seen, Richard's 34 seems to go Hard as does Kasko's 33. (as witnessed at Goulburn 2012 Nats)

You already have : Cooler and Exhaust so you have more power than stock.

Your whole "Gentleman's agreement has suppressed my vehicles potential" argument is null and void as a result...

Are you truly capable of handling what you have now? I don't think you have scared yourself yet...

You will gain a greater appreciation when you do. This trackday thing you are going to do might just be what you need.

But it's your car and your choice.

Personally I "think " I will be happy with my retune on the SAFC... at least for the moment.

The low throttle response is so much sharper than before and if I can achieve an extra 20-30kws it will be awesome!

If and when my Turbs pops, I will defo get in touch with Stao (Hypergear) and get me some hiflow. ($1000)

But only really as a rebuilt reliable replacement. I can't see myself upping the Boost, upgrading injectors etc...

As you know, my car is my daily and all I really want from it is Reliability with some punch but not at an extravagant price tag.

But as I said, it's yours to do as you please, learn and make your own decisions / mistakes.

As for being quicker than me... my Auto diff helps with acceleration.

You will Never have me as you will Never have your Car.

[Sinista32]

yes to deatchwerks

get MiK to do your crutch otherwise around $500 labour ontop of cost of clutch

[Got a Pulsar]

Bosch 044 is not that much hassle to DIY (I did it) and yeah Trojan quoted $450 + parts for clutch install.

(Damn you guys in front of your Computers thru the day, I get little opportunity at my work and all the good conversation is finished by the time I get home).

[Sinista32]

The wahlbro 342 came with a kit designed for ER34 (basically a sock at 90⁰)

used the existing sock as better.

[D.I.Y. Mik]

From what I've seen, Richard's 34 seems to go Hard as does Kasko's 33. (as witnessed at Goulburn 2012 Nats)

You already have : Cooler and Exhaust so you have more power than stock.

Your whole "Gentleman's agreement has suppressed my vehicles potential" argument is null and void as a result...

Are you truly capable of handling what you have now? I don't think you have scared yourself yet...

You will gain a greater appreciation when you do. This trackday thing you are going to do might just be what you need.

But it's your car and your choice.

Personally I "think " I will be happy with my retune on the SAFC... at least for the moment.

The low throttle response is so much sharper than before and if I can achieve an extra 20-30kws it will be awesome!

If and when my Turbs pops, I will defo get in touch with Stao (Hypergear) and get me some hiflow. ($1000)

But only really as a rebuilt reliable replacement. I can't see myself upping the Boost, upgrading injectors etc...

As you know, my car is my daily and all I really want from it is Reliability with some punch but not at an extravagant price tag.

But as I said, it's yours to do as you please, learn and make your own decisions / mistakes.

As for being quicker than me... my Auto diff helps with acceleration.

You will Never have me as you will Never have your Car.

Good advice.

Do the track day and think about what you want.

It made me re-evaluate everything from a new perspective.

Edited September 19, 2013 by D.I.Y. Mik

[Got a Pulsar]

So when I gear change or slow down I sometimes seem to get this "bang" from the exhaust. Healthy? Also, anyone know why this is happening?

I'm getting even more of this lately. Perhaps my car is getting used to the Shell fuel as opposed to Caltex...

Love it...

I can see more than a few reasons why perhaps Jeremy needs to have a ride or drive in my car...

[D.I.Y. Mik]

Mine pops ever since the tune. more fuel i guess.

Now ive tightened the exhaust manifold, it pops in the muffler not the downpipe. no oxygen till the muffler now.

Anyway rich is safe, dirty but safe.

[B-rice]

Mine was doing this a lot when i had the stock plugs. I changed to 0.8mm I had to anyway running higher boost and the pop went away. It occurs seldom now. As for power depending on what ECU you get.

ECU (try getting a stand alone with more control Adaptronic,Link,Vipec, Haltech etc piggy back do not have as much control as you do with these.

AFM (you might be restricted up to 250kw, AFM goes out of resolution you can still tune it beyond though. (MAP and IAT sensor) if you dont want AFM.
Turbo (Cant go past Hypergear do some research for what suits you, smallest sized turbo that can produce what yo want) check out RB25 TURBO UPGRADE DYNO RESULTS in Forced Indution

Fuel pump (Nismo,Tomei pretty much plug took me 20mins. Walbro 500hp etc)

Injectors ( you will also need to consider if you will use E85, if so project how much power you need and use this calculator (http://www.injectordynamics.com/HPCalculator.html) (IDxxx, Xspurts, Deautshwerks) or ASNU (what im using )

Clutch (Your wallet will do the talking) NPC is very cheap and does good shit otherwise exedy or some other spec.

Coilpacks (Yellow Jacket, Splitfires)

Depending on your temps you might need a new radiator the GTT radiators are very small. Change to a forward facing plenum(you can relocate traction control)

Also you should do some geometry work. Might be able to put down the power better and enjoy the car.

Changing headgasket might be ideal but a lot have done it without but i would if i had the coin. Making power inst hard but making reliable power is where the issue is.

[RosieR34]

From what I've seen, Richard's 34 seems to go Hard as does Kasko's 33. (as witnessed at Goulburn 2012 Nats)

You already have : Cooler and Exhaust so you have more power than stock.

Your whole "Gentleman's agreement has suppressed my vehicles potential" argument is null and void as a result...

I think having a 5-10kW gain from cooler and exhaust is truly not the vehicles potential, so I do feel as if the potential of my car is not yet met - which I want to discover.

Are you truly capable of handling what you have now? I don't think you have scared yourself yet...

I feel as if I am - I full throttle around town more than enough (obviously when safe to do so and in the correct conditions) - I'm not interested in going side-ways or even aggressive cornering. Even though I do tackle round-a-abouts.

As everyone says - you get use to power and you want more. I'm at the stage that I want more. I use Rosie as a daily and also drive her a lot on the weekends so I have driven the car A LOT and have, in my opinion exhausted all power available to me. The descion to go more power is purely to get that heart-pumping experience. Atm, I do feel Rosie is kicking hard, but not hard enough.

You will gain a greater appreciation when you do. This trackday thing you are going to do might just be what you need.

But it's your car and your choice.

Since I have extremely low interest in tracking Rosie - I don't feel as if that envieroment will meet my needs of expectation. It's the streetz where I want to drive Rosie and it's the streetz that I have driven on for a while now.

Personally I "think " I will be happy with my retune on the SAFC... at least for the moment.

The low throttle response is so much sharper than before and if I can achieve an extra 20-30kws it will be awesome!

I have considered this and we've had a few convos about it. I'm still unsure if I only want to break the low 200's ow get around 245kW

If and when my Turbs pops, I will defo get in touch with Stao (Hypergear) and get me some hiflow. ($1000)

But only really as a rebuilt reliable replacement. I can't see myself upping the Boost, upgrading injectors etc...

I might go in the direction of Richard - Highflow with supporting mods if it'll get me to 245kW - when I was running low 20's in PSI it was INSANE ! Every since I plummed back to 10 PSI - it just doesn't feel the same - that heart pumping experience I was having.

As you know, my car is my daily and all I really want from it is Reliability with some punch but not at an extravagant price tag.

I am also for this - hence why I've been considering - but I've loved the Skylines so much that I want to explore more. If my car does break - I can go into work with Mum so I can be a little risky - it's the repair costs I don't want to think about.

But as I said, it's yours to do as you please, learn and make your own decisions / mistakes.

I take advice and opinions seriously and welcome everything - I know I am still a noob in this area so advice is taken. I feel as if I'm ready to commit to the next step and power levels. I guess my needs for Rosie is slightly different to others in the sense of more power for streetz may not be the norm.

As for being quicker than me... my Auto diff helps with acceleration.

Haha we will race for pinkz soon my friend.

You will Never have me as you will Never have your Car.

Mine was doing this a lot when i had the stock plugs. I changed to 0.8mm I had to anyway running higher boost and the pop went away. It occurs seldom now. As for power depending on what ECU you get.

ECU (try getting a stand alone with more control Adaptronic,Link,Vipec, Haltech etc piggy back do not have as much control as you do with these.

AFM (you might be restricted up to 250kw, AFM goes out of resolution you can still tune it beyond though. (MAP and IAT sensor) if you dont want AFM.What is AFM sorry?

Turbo (Cant go past Hypergear do some research for what suits you, smallest sized turbo that can produce what yo want) check out RB25 TURBO UPGRADE DYNO RESULTS in Forced Indution

Fuel pump (Nismo,Tomei pretty much plug took me 20mins. Walbro 500hp etc)

Injectors ( you will also need to consider if you will use E85, if so project how much power you need and use this calculator (http://www.injectordynamics.com/HPCalculator.html) (IDxxx, Xspurts, Deautshwerks) or ASNU (what im using )I will stick to the basic Shell Prem fuel.

Clutch (Your wallet will do the talking) NPC is very cheap and does good shit otherwise exedy or some other spec. My concerns are the cost of the product not the installing - so hopefully some dollars are saved.

Coilpacks (Yellow Jacket, Splitfires)

Depending on your temps you might need a new radiator the GTT radiators are very small. Change to a forward facing plenum(you can relocate traction control)

Also you should do some geometry work. Might be able to put down the power better and enjoy the car.

Changing headgasket might be ideal but a lot have done it without but i would if i had the coin. Making power inst hard but making reliable power is where the issue is.

Cheers for your advice and opinion Bryce.

Replies in bold.

[Shell]

I've had a cold all week and feel like shit

GIVE ME SYMPATHY

[RosieR34]

I've had a cold all week and feel like shit

GIVE ME SYMPATHY

Get well soon ! It's been raining this week so you're not missing out on much