Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im now thinking of importin the good ol r32 gtst.

Now, what are the main problems with importing? How do you really know you are not getting a piece of sh*t that some jap has absolutely flogged! Because the thing i dont wanna do, is import one drive it for a while then have to get a engine rebuild... new transmision... turbo rebore or whatever it is.

So how can you make sure you get a good car? With many importing places you see the car in a photo and have to choose within a few hours wether you want it or not. So you really dont know what you are paying pretty high cash for do ya?

Some one help me out before i make a decision.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54924-problems-with-importing/
Share on other sites

Unfortunately there is of course an inherant risk involved with importing, it is for this very reason that impoting is not for everyone. Not everyone is happy to purchase with only a description and a few pictures.

If you are extremely concerned about this then i suggest you have a look around locally in dealers yards and privately, this will allow you to touch/drive the vehicle and have it checked out by your family mechanic.

You may well pay a tad more by purchasing locally, but if you feel more comfortable doing so then it is money well spent.

I'd nominate two considerations:

1. Find someone you trust to examine the cars. I'm importing through Prestigemotorsport and Geoff has warned me off several cars that pop up at auction because they're dodge.

2. Look for the auction grade. If it's a grade 4 then it's pretty good all-round. If you see the auction sheet and there's xxxx everywhere then you're rolling the dice.

when i imported i went throug j-spec.com.au. better to get an angent that has people to check the cars out in japan and better to avoid the only 1 day to buy bs as there is no need to rush. get them to get a mechanic to fully check the car out (will cost you about $250) but you will get a full report as well as about 80odd photos. put ya deposit down so they start looking for ya but take ya time and dont take the first car ya see, wati till ya get a feel for the types of cars that are avaliable.

i did it this way and my machine is a rocket with no problems whatsoever.

on the other hand, i bought my 89 gtst through prestige, looked awsome in the pics, and the condition notes said all was good. HA HA heres the kick in the teeth, i went to collect the car to see it with bald tyres, missing an indicater (found in the boot), parker lights not working, no water, crack in the front bar (not in pics, i looked) and a terrible miss in the engine. after later examining the car found it was pissing water out of the head gasket staight onto the turbo cracking it (still waiting for replacemnet), im a happy person so i still love my car i just wouldve rathered not go through all this stuff.

WHEN i do it again, i will be getting a under 15 year old car through sevs, i think it takes alot of the aingst out of it and at least a grade 4 auction value

depends what u want.. if you are getting a cheap car, you have to expect to have to do some work on it. I don't mind working on a car to fix little problems, I just see it as a challenge and part of the fun :)

If something is perfect it can only go down hill, whereas if something needs a little TLC you can only be happy with every little thing you do to it. My thoughts anyhow!

  • 3 weeks later...
depends what u want.. if you are getting a cheap car, you have to expect to have to do some work on it. I don't mind working on a car to fix little problems, I just see it as a challenge and part of the fun :)  

If something is perfect it can only go down hill, whereas if something needs a little TLC you can only be happy with every little thing you do to it. My thoughts anyhow!

His car would have been checked over by the guy in Japan and pictures sent. It is the fault of the guy checking the cars in Japan if he missed obvious problems.

So say if i were to import through prestige, would they be able to take the car i wish to buy to get it checked for accidents/compression/faults/etc, before i hand over the rest of the cash? Because i cant just buy a car by looking at auction sheets, if i cant feel or drive it, i at least need some checks done...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 馃槄
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 馃珷    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
  • Create New...