wises

sad reacs only

Car looks awesome! last last pic is a pissa!

I've always found this site to be the most helpful when it comes to changing wheels. https://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator#

Ok, I fixed my horn yesterday in my S1 GTR, it has an S2 steering wheel, so no dice on the airbag, but! As for the horn, there should be 4 wires going to the steering wheel, the green wire should be the horn active, you can check this with a multimeter/test lamp, test from the chassis to the green wire and you should have 12V there, then while still connected to chassis and the green wire (either with clamps, or a mate) pull the horn fuse in the engine bay, this should take away the 12V, confirming that it's the right circuit. After that you can re -insert the fuse and connect the green wire to the single wire attached to the horn mechanism, this should pull in the horn relay (in engine bay) and sound the horn. I hope this helps as I trolled the 3 threads about this on SAU and various others without answers. The methodology for find the wire is solid, so if the wire colours differ, testing them to ground and removing the horn fuse should determine which one is correct.

I did, a few times, nothing came up :\ nvm... I was on the 34 page...

Got another one series 3 R33 GTR, I've checked http://www.gtr-reigstry.com/ but no dice on this one 6U900BCNR33042103. Your effort is much appreciated

would you mind running 6U900BCNR33040711 please silver series 3 r33 GTR

Want to buy R33 GTR series 2 or 3 (96-98) Colour preference, silver, white, grey, purple, the rest. Reasonable km’s for year, purchase mainly on condition. Can travel on east coast, located in Wodonga (NSW/VIC border). Thanks

price drop $1100.

price drop $1200, seriously want to off load these rims

price drop $1300, or make an offer.

Items: OEM 370Z rims with tyres (still good >80%), front rims 18x8+43, rear 18x9+15 Item Condition: small gutter rash on 1x front rim, small/medium gutter rash on 1x rear rim - only gutter rashed rims pictured, the others are fine. Extra Info: selling as they're not great on my 4wd Stagea Contact Details: PM or 0412 990 4 eight eight Price and price conditions: $1400 ono. Also willing to swap for charcoal coloured 18s but must be all the same width and offset to suit M35 Stagea Pics casue I couldn't work out how to add them to the post! http://www.sau.com.a...-oem-370z-rims/

Items: OEM 370Z rims with tyres (still good, but not new), front rims 18x8+43, rear 18x9+15 Item Condition: small gutter rash on 1x front rim, small/medium gutter rash on 1x rear rim - only gutter rashed rims pictured, the others are fine. Extra Info: selling as they're not great on my 4wd Stagea Contact Details: PM or 0412 990 4 eight eight Price and price conditions: $1400 ono. Also willing to swap for charcoal coloured 18s but must be all the same width and offset to suit M35 Stagea Pics casue I couldn't work out how to add them to the post! http://www.sau.com.au/forums/gallery/album/5859-oem-370z-rims/

Hi all, I've got a Blitz SBC ID installed on my R33, everything was working fine, and I mean fine, was doing everything it should. BUT!! Now something has gone terribadly wrong! The car seems to have dropped down to standard boost despite what i set the boost to on the controller. I have tried the boost on auto, manual at high boost and low boost, but still the car boosts the same. Also messed around with the gain setting but no real love there, I did notice a VERY slight difference in response when controller was set in manual and boost was set to 100, but boost peaked at 9.6psi. An interesting thing to note is that when I have the boost set very low ie. 1psi the alarm trigger on the controller does not activate. Also, I pulled the control box for the unit out (the silver one that you tuck away in the cabin) and checked it over with the multi meter, the box had the needed 12V to the supply and was outputting 12v on the common and what I would guess are the step 1 and step 2 solenoid returns, now when I set the boost to 1 psi and blew with my mouth on the pressure inlet to the unit, there was practically no change in voltage on any pin, cept for a slight dip to 10.5V approx on one of the solenoid feed/returns. Very confusing stuff, I opened up the silver box and checked out inside, nothing burnt or out of the ordinary. My next move is to pull the solenoids out of the engine bay and confirm there operation. Just thought I'd crack this up online and see if anyone has any thoughts or experiences with these units playing like this. A few other things I've tried are: Resetting the controller Unplugging the blitz power meter (also usually connected) Disconnected the actuator feed from the solenoid block to confirm turbo operation, turbo works fine. Setting all channels to 1, nothing happened car still boosted as stock Scramble has been turned off Well that's about all I can think of for now, any help will be greatly appreciated. Cheers!!

aye!! i installed my immobilizer and in doing so pretty much found out how easy it is to steal one with out it, personally, immobilizer plus insurance is as far as im goin, itll stop dumbshits, and anyone smart enough to get round it will treat your car with absolute respect after they've stolen it just try not to advertise your car as theft worthy. or have super sweet stupid alarm with theyll get by and the cops arent goin to be too much help once theyve made off with it neways. DISCLAIMER drunk whilst posting

heya bois! well lets start with a lil history. bought my car 10k ('96 r33 skyline) awesome buy, now i need to fit an immobilizer, get that done! works great, BUT now i want to make the keyless entry work, now this immobilizer uses ground pulses to lock/unlock the car (press the button to lock, you get a momentary ground pulse, same for unlock, but 2 different wires). now i want to try and maintain having the smart entry box to control basically everything it does now. can anyone tell me, A) the trigger that the smart entry uses to trigger the passenger door to unlock so that if i can pulse the relay in the smart entry to unlock that, i can get it to unlock the drivers side door as well (using a 2 wire actuator). B) the hardware and wiring diagram to wire this shit up to make it work with the smart entry. now im not a bumbass completely i mapped the switching etc for the smart entry just couldnt completely find out what the hell was goin on, and dont really wanna burn out any track on the IC. any help would be great!!

hhmmm gday, pls dont put this kind of question under "Help Please!!" seriously, this isnt a serious problem that requires "Help!!" if you need to know about speakers put it under something like "ahh i need to know some shit about speakers" that way i wont have to click on it thinking "hmm maybe i can help" regard matt cheers hope you find the right speakers and they dont blow your car up when you turn the stereo on.

heya boys!! moving to SA end of jan!!! to WHYALLA!!!!! WOO HOOO!!!!! pls tell me theres someone from whyalla on here!!! god help me!

mmm yuckers to silly mistakes.... the other night out cruising with a good mate russ, went up monument hill (local go place) found a few fellas there all car enthusiests. "rip a skid!!" i hear from one of em so i think, why not flawed it dropped the clutch and let er rip! GRAB 2ND GEAR <--------- SILLY MISTAKE car rips around to the right a whole 90 degrees, oops cant stop it, and it jumps over some ramp shaped sleepers into the middle of a little area, inside this area is the other end of the afore mentioned ramp shaped sleepers (verticle side) FARK!!! but luckily all the guys were very cool about the whole thing, i had a cringe they all had a cringe, we moved some of the sleepers that we could to form a ramp to get me outa there with a little help from them all to lift the car at the gaurds, all was good again end of the story luckily my car suffer no damage, hearts weeping for ya