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I reakon red with black wheels looks great: I am most envious :)

Personally I would avoid the Bayside Blue/Nismo LM Blue as I associate those colours with the R34, so they look a little out of place on a R32 GT-R :) Personally I would go for a dark shade of purple with white wheels :)

LW.

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Rezz - price is usually a consideration so I understand why most people dont go for a full strip and metal finish. Sorry if I gave you the wrong idea (or got on my high horse)

I like to do things the best way possible and only have to do them once (I've been stung too many times in the past when I tried to take the easy way out, and in the long run it always cost me more than dooing it right the first time.)

Your car looks sweet, and if your happy with the quality of the job thats all that matters.

I guess I was just trying to let people know that there are other ways and things to consider when getting bodywork done on a car.

Ahhhhh run away ..  

I saw BOG in the first photo.

A good workshop will metal finish the car and wont use ANY spray putty (BOG) or high fill primer. They should be able get it near pergect with hammers and dollies, then lead wipe it and file it down ready for painting.  

I agree that this sort of quality costs more, but the result is a painted surface that will outlast the factory original.

A couple of points here :

If they use hammers and dollies to repair a damaged panel then they have to srink the panel then comes the filler ( whatever type , these days they mostly use polyester filler , you just add the hardener to it and it cures hard then you file it ) or as you say lead then you file that . After the filing to remove the filing marks they use a spray 2 in one primer filler then using a rubber block sand the surface ( 320 -600 depending on how good a job you want) .

I can assure you there is no other way to block the file marks unless you use some kind of primer .

Then comes the finishing coat ( a 2 pack mix , colour + hardner ) , a few coats are sprayed then in mica , metalic paints , a few coats of clear , then its baked usualy overnight .

If you want a perfect job you cut back with 1500-1800 paper then buf it for a perfect finish .

Tthe panelbeaters today mostly will use polyester fillers , not lead and mostly will not repair panels they just replace them , its usualy cheaper .

I like to do things the best way possible and only have to do them once
Yeah me too... and heres me thinking that a 230,000 yen job "was" the best way possible :) hence I asked why you were trying to make me feel bad :) hehehe... anyway its all good.

Hi wrxhoon

I know that my photos (above) dont/wont/can't show it very clearly, but the finish in the metal work there looks like a just pressed panel. There is no 2 in one spray primer/filler on it at this stage, and no need to apply it to fill the file marks (there were none desernable to the human eye).

Yes, I thought about it, and in the end decided it was worth it beecause the mechanicals of the car are actually quite good, beating Evo_Lee's Lancer Evo 5 up to 120km/h on standard boost... :D

Justin mate...yes your car has a fair bit of grunt, but please don't be like the kids claiming victory when the other driver (me) wasn't even racing properly. Again do I have to remind you the road was merging left and if I had not backed off you were bound to plow straight into the cars waiting to turn right.

Regarding the quality of the finish...yes it was very very good. I have a older cousin in the smash repair business which I have spend a substantial time helping back in my younger years and I can tell the difference between a quality work/paint/finish!

Justin mate...yes your car has a fair bit of grunt, but please don't be like the kids claiming victory when the other driver (me) wasn't even racing properly.
Zat vas a jyoke... I uzed a schmilie alzough it scheemz it vazn't oonderschtood... aaah vell :thumbdwn:
Justin mate...yes your car has a fair bit of grunt, but please don't be like the kids claiming victory when the other driver (me) wasn't even racing properly. Again do I have to remind you the road was merging left and if I had not backed off you were bound to plow straight into the cars waiting to turn right.

Regarding the quality of the finish...yes it was very very good. I have a older cousin in the smash repair business which I have spend a substantial time helping back in my younger years and I can tell the difference between a quality work/paint/finish!

Evo?

Is that a GTR in the picture?

Zat vas a jyoke... I uzed a schmilie alzough it scheemz it vazn't oonderschtood... aaah vell :thumbdwn:

your german really sucks rezz :D

btw i noticed that the turbo badge hadn't come off still... :) coulda taken it off while it was being repainted you know... :D

Hi wrxhoon

I know that my photos (above) dont/wont/can't show it very clearly, but the finish in the metal work there looks like a just pressed panel. There is no 2 in one spray primer/filler on it at this stage, and no need to apply it to fill the file marks (there were none desernable to the human eye).

You have to apply some primer on the metal before the finishing coat is put on regardless of how good the panel is . even new metal you have to prime .

new metal first a light coat of etch primer them primer then finishing coat thats the way it is .

If you repair a panel , after taking the dint out and shink it you file it with a body file , body files leave file marks thats what you have to block with the primer ,primer filler or putty whatever you use .then you rub back with 320 -600 paper depending on how good the job you want , then finishing coat .

If anyone tells you otherwise they are b*shiting .

Yes his german suxs but his irish is quite something...wtf but your german right!

Justin, come along when I get the car tuned and get it dynoed.

informer, yes that is a GT-R which belongs to a friend who sadly no longer owns...and yes I own an Evo...so will someone else too soon :D:D.

Guest two.06l
A couple of points here :

If they use hammers and dollies to repair a damaged panel then they have to srink the panel then comes the filler ( whatever type , these days they mostly use polyester filler , you just add the hardener to it and it cures hard then you file it ) or as you say lead then you file that . After the filing to remove the filing marks they use a spray 2 in one primer filler then using a rubber block sand the surface ( 320 -600 depending on how good a job you want) .  

I can assure you there is no other way to block the file marks  unless you use some kind of primer .

Then comes the finishing coat ( a 2 pack mix , colour + hardner ) , a few coats are sprayed then in mica , metalic paints , a few coats of clear , then its baked usualy overnight .

If you want a perfect job you cut back with 1500-1800 paper then buf it for a perfect finish .

Tthe panelbeaters today mostly will use polyester fillers , not lead and mostly will not repair panels they just replace them , its usualy cheaper .

Now that is what i was refering to 4door sleeper. Im not some 15yr old kid who jumps on the forums to brag about the blow off valve i just fitted to my NA mighty boy ute. I ACTUALLY know my sh1t, i dont comment unless it is helpful. I just sometimes cant help but comment when people come on here with negative unsubstanciated comments. Thanks wrxhoon for a summary of what ACTUALLY happens in the REAL world. I think the Daimler, Rolls Royce forum is elsewhere on the net. Paul...DIRTgarage.

Yes his german suxs but his irish is quite something...wtf but your german right!
Ach! Its SKOA-ISH MEETE! Wah tha fook ya tawkin aboot "EYE-rrrrrrrrRISH"??? Its noh "UNGLUSH" eeethah YA DAFT PRAT, its SKOA-ISH... aaaaaah-rate???
Justin, come along when I get the car tuned and get it dynoed.
ooooaaaah yea rrrrrrrrrate.... whun ya geet ut dynoed eh?? Eyed layke tuh see tha meete... 3.50ps iz tha rrrrrate? :D

*rrrrrate = right

Wow well there is certainly a contrast between your body shop work and mine!! ROFL

Being a drifter I use a rattle can IF the car is lucky! usually a hammer, chain and thats it. filler is just more money. I like my wrinkled guards! it shows the car gets used :D

Well I'm going for black, and I believe it is the easiest colour to spray/respray.

Informer, i was under the impression that black is a bastard to spray, as the surface prep has to be PERFECT so as not to show up any undulations?

My 32R is metallic black, and looks awesome when clean... but getting the front end resprayed was somewhat of an ordeal :D

Panelbeaters that do high class cars will use filler ( filler is different to putty , or primer filler ) .

You use filler ( called niki in the trade ) to fill metal imperfections , first you do the hammer + dolly then shrink then filler then you file the filler then sand the filler with 40 sandpaper , usualy using an orbital sander ( vibrator ) but can use a block as well .

Then comes the putty ( usualy spray but can apply with a rubber )or primer filler this saves priming again .

The difference between a good job and a crapy one is the amount of filler that you use , one a good job very little , less than 1mm thick but i have seen 10 mm thick niki on a panel .

Two.06l ,

how are the wheels going ? Have you been able to run 11's yet ?

Informer, i was under the impression that black is a bastard to spray, as the surface prep has to be PERFECT so as not to show up any undulations?

My 32R is metallic black, and looks awesome when clean... but getting the front end resprayed was somewhat of an ordeal :D

I think what I meant was, black is one of the easiest colour to match.

Gaaawwwd I can't even understand myself sometimes

I think what I meant was, black is one of the easiest colour to match.

Gaaawwwd I can't even understand myself sometimes

:)

as long as it is not pearl black! :D

good luck with it - and I still think you should go black - they look tough :) too many gun metals around /awaits flamage/

Guest two.06l
Two.06l ,  

how are the wheels going ? Have you been able to run 11's yet ?

The car is still undergoing some more work. Its going to be on the Drag combat stand at autosalon. Just trying to get it ready. The Japanese certainly have a knack at keeping you waiting for parts. A new paint job is also happening too. Stacey has not raced the car since her win at Drag combat. She has promised me a drive this time so 11s are a certainty, but our goal is 10.78. Did a 12.3 in a mate stocker at bu5ters drag day but i only got 3 runs in the car, and could have gone even quicker. The wheels are great but we may spray them VOLK/RAYS bronze does anyone have a colour or paint code for them?? Paul...DIRTgarage

Panelbeaters that do high class cars will use filler ( filler is different to putty , or primer filler ) .

You use filler ( called niki in the trade ) to fill metal imperfections , first you do the hammer + dolly then shrink then filler then you file the filler then sand the filler with 40 sandpaper , usualy using an orbital sander ( vibrator ) but can use a block as well .

Then comes the putty ( usualy spray but can apply with a rubber )or primer filler  this saves priming again .

If you ever come down to Adelaide, pay a visit to Des Higgins. (he did my car and has a reputation around Australia for the quality of his work - yes he is that good)

I realise that the photos dont show it clearly but I think even at the resolution shown you can see that the metal has not been finished with 40 grit paper. I have rubbed a few cars back myself and the bare metal in the photo has a better finish than when I used 240 grit.

After the metal work the car is primed (of course) but there is no putty.

I guess its hard to explain unless you have seen his work yourself.

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