Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

After *almost* buying an r34 gtr, and deciding its way too much money to spend on a car the only other option was an r32.

The amount of money I save importing a 15 year old GTR compared to purchasing a local 92-94 model in similar condition was enough that I've taken the plunge, even with the moderate risk involved in importing yourself.

This vehicle from a supplier I found through prestige motorsport will be in my garage early 2005:

http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/?/au/...sp?StockID=2654

Just some quick questions:

1. I read a thread a while back about people trying to remove the cup holders (as seen on my car) from the air con vents. I remember people saying its impossible to remove them without damaging the vents.. is this true?

2. How much is it going to cost to get the dash and door/interior trim recovered, or is it cheaper to buy a new dash? Has anyone done this? :D

Edit: The car has now Arrived!, pics can be viewed ** HERE!! **

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55513-my-gtr-thread/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Congradulations. Your car would compete with mine for stockness (though, naturally, mine would win on account of not having cup holders or fog lights) :D

How long will it be stored for before it reaches Australia? Reason I ask is mine waited about 4 months in Japan and became a mould breeding ground, so expect to spend some quality time with your vacuum cleaner :)

Take my advice and ask for your log books to be sent to you now via mail.

Lucien.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55513-my-gtr-thread/#findComment-1082211
Share on other sites

Congrats - nice choice (My 93 R is black too!)

One of the good things about an R32 is the availability of parts and the compatability with the "little brother" GTS-T for trim and bits and pieces.

Don't worry about the bubbled dash - try injecting superglue with a siringe into the buble after you have softened up the area with a hair drier. Use "quarter round" timber to push the buble back into the crease and hold it there for a few minutes.

Good luck

Gav

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55513-my-gtr-thread/#findComment-1082227
Share on other sites

Thanks Lucien!

I cant get the log books sent as its already at the wharf. :D

I'm getting the car shipped on the next available vessle, so i think it should be here in early January 05.

January? Bummer. I know there is a ship scheduled to leave on the 20th Nov bound for Sydney (no idea if it stops in QLD first)... if you want it earlier maybe get it on that ship and get it transported up to QLD?

Apparently its very busy at the wharfs at the moment (cars being bumped off shipping schedules, etc).

Fingers crossed with the log books. Mine never arrived :)

LW.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55513-my-gtr-thread/#findComment-1082235
Share on other sites

Gav: Great tip! i'll try it out..

Yeah the ships are all overbooked at the moment, I might not even have the car until early Feb! :goddam:

Just wondering if anyone has experience removing cup holders, and if anyone thinks it will be a problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55513-my-gtr-thread/#findComment-1082613
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

I tried wrestling with the cup holders, they are both definately clipped on.. i've saved it for when i get home i'm going to be super careful so i dont break the plastic vents.

She started first time every time, none of the warning lights came on. What seems to be the stock exhaust puts out a very quiet purr, and is the quietest gtr i've ever sat in. The cooling system had bright green coolant in it and the engine oil looked like it had just been changed.

The interior isnt as perfect as the photos made it out to be, the steering wheel, gear knob, gear boot & handbrake leathers are absolutely perished.. but the seats and plastics are suprisingly decent. And I was replacing all the above anyway. The body work had one small pin scratch on it from transport and thats it.

The stereo has been stolen.. not that it matters I have a new deck i'll be installing.

Suprisingly there is bright red strut tower brace, the power options all work and the air con works and the display is perfect! woohoo.

Today its getting all the fluids done and an inspection.. i'm anxiously waiting to find out what the verdict is once they get it up on the hoist.. fingers crossed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55513-my-gtr-thread/#findComment-1310721
Share on other sites

Congradulations,

just curious, you mentioned that your air-cond work.

I recently got my car and it needed to be regas.

Does QLD law allow the old gas or do you just mean that the electrics work, but no gas?

Nice Stocky by the way.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55513-my-gtr-thread/#findComment-1311056
Share on other sites

Your car has finally arrived!? Inconceivable!! :D

Great stuff Pentae, and about time too. I hope the runs as smooth as it looks, go out there and break the "89's are dungers" stereotype.

Cheers dude,

Mark

PS Those centre vents are $125... The manual has a pic and info about poking a screwdriver down in between the vents to pop off a few plastic catches and then the vent *should* be able to be prised out...?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55513-my-gtr-thread/#findComment-1312100
Share on other sites

pentae, I feel your pain on the delay. I bought two R32 GTRs last year, one in April which I only picked up last Wednesday (and didn't even get home before something went wrong), the other one I purchased on 6.3.04 and it was finally released by customs last Wednesday as well so I could finally view it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55513-my-gtr-thread/#findComment-1313477
Share on other sites

PS Those centre vents are $125... The manual has a pic and info about poking a screwdriver down in between the vents to pop off a few plastic catches and then the vent *should* be able to be prised out...?

Good luck with that :rofl: 10-15 year old plastic doesn't take well to bending, that's if you have a screwdriver that's long enough and thin enough so that you can move the tabs without damaging the vent slats.

If you planning to remove the dashboard at some stage, remove the vents then: its so much easier.

Edit: The leather items probably perished during storage. Months in the direct air + water = not so good for leather.

Lucien.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55513-my-gtr-thread/#findComment-1313626
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...