Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33GTST S1

Stock Turbo @ 12psi

Stock Internals

Front mount

Haltech ECU

3.75" Cat Back Exhaust, 3" In front of cat

190rwkw with decent clutch slippage

13.2sec Willowbank Raceway, No tread!

Upgrades In process right now, can post new dyno by Sunday Night if I have time to get out of the car :P

High flow stock turbo to GT3035 Standard, Install Nismo 740cc Injectors, New Clutch, Upgrading tyres to Falken GRB451's, block off POD filter with carbon box, upgrade dump. Real time map on dyno for a few hours to get power curve constant and kicking arse..

Just on another note, I changed my front back just before getting 190rwkw, a week earlier I had the stock series 1 front bar on, I achieve 178rwkw, by changing my bar to a new more flowing bar for the intercooler and pod I gained and extra 12rwkw.. no crap.. same temp same fuel same dyno machine. I found that very interesting.

93 R33GTST S1

Stock Turbo

Stock Internals

Stock intercooler

factory set boost

Power FC

pod filter(no CAI)

3" turbo back, high flow cat, 3" back, 4.5" tip - all stainless.

ss bov

New NGK iridiums (BCPR6EIX11- suited to RB20 but runs cooler with RB25 in our conditions)

caltex vortex (would have prefered ultimate but.....)

183.3rwkw (19/11/04)

93 R33 GTS-t S1

Stock turbo @ ~12psi

Stock internals

Custom front mount with garrett core

Wolf 3d version 4 ecu (no AFM)

3 inch turbo back exhaust with custom double dump

Pump fuel

187 rwkw

Next to come is GT28rs turbo with custom manifold, bigger fuel pump and injectors

gcg st.1 450hp high flow turbo . gtr front mount cooler

             aftermarket manifold, ces racing 3inch split dump, 3inch cat and exhaust.

             link ecu, malpassi rising rate reg.

             stock internals and stock cams.

             224rwkws at 17.5psi, with more power to come just need new coil before i can run more boost. 224rwkws at 1.2bar shootout mode, dont have scanner to post sheet.

We need that sheet big carl.Can you tell us what power it makes from 2000rpm-6500rpm.

I would like to know where it stands in the power delivery dept.

Here you go i will get you started just fill in the blanks.

Rpm

2000-

2500-

3000-

3500-

4000-

4500-

5000-

5500-

6000-

6500-

Cheers BigCarl.It's not compulsory:)

trust 33 ive plotted those figures of my dyno graph to the best of my ability, it goes as follows: 2000rpm- 35rwkws

2500rpm- 48rwkws

3000rpm- 84rwkws

3500rpm- 126rwkws

4000rpm- 150rwkws

4500rpm- 186rwkws

5000rpm- 210rwkws

5500rpm- 220rwkws

5900rpm-224rwkws power drops of at 6000rpm due to stock cams i think?

93 R33GTST S1

T3 turbo with 04 rear wheel

Stock Internals

600*300*76 intercooler

12psi

pod filter(no CAI)

3" turbo back, Standard emptyed cat, 3" back,

runing BP ultimate

300.2rwhp (about 222rwkw)

  • 2 months later...

'95 R33 GTS-t (S1.5 with 102,000km)

Micks Metalcraft FMIC

K&N Panel Filter

HKS Exhaust Cam Gear

Splitfire D1 Ignition Coils (gave me a solid 10rwkw)

Copper Plugs (0.8mm)

Dual-Stage Bleed Valve

Stock ECU

Stock Turbo (9psi - won't hold anymore)

Custom 3" Front/Dump pipe

Custom 3" Cat

Nismo 3" Cat-back Exhaust

Motul 4100 Oil

Fresh off the dyno only 2hrs ago.

198.5rwkw/266rwhp (before it started to ping)

Rpm - rwkw

2000 - 32

2500 - 60

3000 - 100

3500 - 116

4000 - 137

4500 - 145

5000 - 155

5500 - 185

6000 - 180

6500 - 198

7000 - 190

Now if only I could get the boost to hold 11-12psi and stop the pinging i'd be well into the 200's on the stock turbo/ECU :D:)

s2 Rb25det

K&N pod filter with cold air intake

FMIC

3 inch full exhaust (including wastegate/turbo integrated dump pipe)

Power FC

R33 gtr fuel pump

Sard fuel pressure reg

Blitz Dual SBC

std engine/turbo @ 1.1bar

210rwkw on 29deg day (Tilbrooks)

I have

Stock Turbo - 12psi

Stock Motor

3 inch split Dump, front pipe

Hi Flo Cat

Muffler

Partitioned Pod Filter

600x300x75 Intercooler with stock Plenum

POWER FC + HC (best investment)

10% Mix of Toluene

210rwkw

420nm Torque

Very quick, and nice consistant powercurve.

209rwkw.jpg

Mine's on the way...currently waiting for the power FC and all will go at the same time as the others...i currently have sitting in my garage are :

T70 turbo with custom dump

HKS 40mm external wastegate

SS top mount manifold

nismo 550 injectors

bosch 044 fuel pump

already in the car are :

Greddy FMIC

nismo air filter

trust boost controler

cusco high flow cat

4' SS catback and 3 from turbo to cat

i will need to replace my Clutch once the new set up is installed..that's for sure...so hopefully i get a good figure from it...will keep you guys posted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...