Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Stock Internals

110000+kms

BP 98

HKS GT-RS turbo

Tomei 555cc injectors

X-Force 3" turbo back exhaust

Apexi PFC

Apexi Super Suction intake kit

Z32 AFM

Blitz LM FMIC

Greddy ProfecB SpecII

Splitfire coil packs

Walbro 255lph fuel pump

(see signature for full details)

An "honest" 244rwkw @ 18psi on a nice "safe" tune :banana:

post-52301-0-46038700-1318222958_thumb.jpg

Got my car re tuned at Initial D Racing. MASSIVE difference compared to the last tune done at CREATD Motorsports.. Car supposibly made 297kw on 18psi. Ended up making 270kw on another dyno with the afr at 14.5 and climbing.

So the afr has been beefed up and is now at 11.0. @ 18psi it makes 300kw on the knocker with full boost in 3rd gear at 3000 - 3500 rpm.

Externally gates 3076 .82 Turbo.

Tial 44mm gate.

Greddy Profec B boost controller.

JJR Ex Cam Gear.

Apexi pfc w/ z32 afm.

Highflowed injecters soon to be changed to nismo 740cc units.

Std head and bottem end.

Future mods will be New injectors, 044 and Surge tank. FULL RACE type ex manifold and new dump pipe.

320683_10150874706730176_807030175_21408127_118936620_n.jpg

Edited by LTHLRB

95 model R33 GTST with 165,000KM stock motor

High flowed 650cc injectors

PWR Front mounted cooler

Xforce turbo back exhaust

Manual boost controller

44mm HKS external gate counted to turbine housing

Hypergear SS-2 stockie bolton turbo

Custom made 3inch intake pipe

PFC and Z32 AFM

Pump 98 fuel. Car made 307rwkws on 22psi, 296rwkws on 20psi.

post-31034-0-51015400-1318749957_thumb.jpg post-31034-0-03007300-1318749964_thumb.jpg

Edited by kwickr33

Just got the car back from Croydon Racing Development

Nistune

HKS 550CC Injectors

Bosch Z32 AFM

Walbro Fuel Pump

Boost was set to 16psi (i think a bit too much for the standard turbo.. lol)

Ran 229.7rwkw

Update;

GT3076 (i think .62)

Made 271rwkw, before cltuch slipped and it wasn't holding boost.

Getting a Exedy heavy duty clutch and a Greddy profec b spec 2, once done will upload results.

R34

Stock motor

3inch from the turbo back

Hyflow turbo

Pod filter

An nistune

206rwkw @9psi

Afm maxed out an injectors at 80%

forgot to get print out

Done at high power racing

They did a pretty good job :)

R33 rb25

ARP studs

oil system minor mods

3076 .82

tial mv-r

vipec pnp

custom top mount

256 cams

autobahn 88 plenum

OS twin

supporting fuel blah blah you know the drill

430whp@~18 psi 91 octane pump gas

460whp@~20 psi with 40/60 mix of ms109 and 91 octane

I have done a whack of track days and its been running for two years now. All in the tune.

VIDEO

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdlzkxypdxU

test2.jpg

Edited by Zacho
  • 2 weeks later...

Garrett GTX3071r .82 rear .60 compressor

Nistune

850cc PE injectors

Tomei fuel pump

Z32 AFM pod filter with CAI

splitfires

front mount

custom 3" dump into full kakimoto exhaust

HKS EVC 6 boost controller%3ca%20href=DSC_0524.jpg">

R33 internally stock

Gt3076 internally gated .82

Caltex eflex

310rwkw @ 16psi

320rekw @ 18psi but wouldn't hold. So there is a restriction so need to fix that.

Also turbo is on its way out.

Pretty happy with it :)

R32 Pig

RB25 Stock Internals

Stock cams

Arp Head Studs

Cometic MLS

Jecs 750cc

Stock fuel rail and regulator

Sard fuel pump

Greddy Copy Plenum

Stock TB

Stock coilpacks (s2)

Power FC

98 Ron

GT3071R

Tial 38mm to screamer

China exhaust manifold

China intercooler

Engine rebuilt by myself

~300rwkw (400rwhp) @ 18psi C-red perth dyno dynamics

Lowered the rev limiter to 6700rpm so I can safely rev on track.

post-50853-0-52412200-1320685662_thumb.jpg

Edited by kliono

R34 GTT

Hiflow turbo

Hks dump pipe

Turnflow front mount

K&N Pod

Walbro fuel pump

3"exhaust

Nistune

Tuned by chasers eastside

Made 222.2kw on 13psi up to 6500rpm then drops to 10psi

Very happy with the result.

180sx

RB25 S2

Greddy Plenum

Q45 Throttle body

1000cc injectors

top mount rail

turbosmart 1200 fpr

walbro pump(unsafe level / now upgrading)

Steam pipe manifold

GTX3706 0.82 Tial rear

Tial MVR 44 gate

z32 afm(pressure side)

z32 Nistune ECU

Zero internal work done

E85 fuel

DynaPack

car made 396kw but had a redline in place at 7000 once removed

Re-runs proved a consistent 394kw

post-44040-0-35055800-1320908171_thumb.jpg

post-44040-0-08521600-1320908074_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Standard s2 motor

Splitfire coilpacks

Plazmaman plenum and 80mm throttle body

660cc injectors and some fancy ass rail

Walbro pump

3.5 inch exhaust

Front mount

Td06 20g fiddled with ;)

44mm tial ext gate

Adaptronic ecu

Bcpr7es plugs capped .6

Sard Reg

380rwhp on 18psi

Tuned by micks motorsport

1998 R34 GTT

Standard Neo Motor

Standard Turbo

Standard Injectors

Standard Coilpacks

Bosch 040 Fuel Pump

FMIC

3.5 inch turbo back Exhaust

Blitz Boost Controller

Nistune ECU

210rwkw on 10psi

Tuned by Paul @ Chasers West Melbourne. Pretty happy! Awesome tune. Fixed all driveability and fuel consumption issues!

post-78760-0-18187500-1322179629_thumb.jpg

2000 model R34 GTT

nistune ecu

fmic

3 inch turbo back exhaust..

boosted to 17psi

221kw atw..with a slipping clutch

that was 2-3 years ago... turbo is now on its last legs... upgrade time!!

Been playing around with the car of late.

previously had

269@ 18psi falling off to 16 (263 run printed)

Nismo 555 injectors

greddy profec b

Garrett 3076 52t .82 internally gated 1 bar actuator

Tomei Poncams

98 octane

usual front mount and 3" exhaust

z32 afm

changes

3076 52t with .63 rear

Tial 44mm external gate

made 236 @ 15psi falling to 14 (no boost control other than the spring in the gate)

*there was no tune done with the new rear set up due to going e85 in the next month or so

verdict

boost comes on a LOT earlier, but no issues with traction. I do miss the power in the top end though, really punches coming out of corners.

plans

E85 + 18psi + 740cc injectors should see me back around the 270ish mark and be back to being awesome with great response. anything more and it does start to become unusable. when the car was making 270 it was great on track, but really lacked low end pull

also worth noting a few friends have the 56t version with identical set ups, the 52t has no where near the high pitched spool noise as the 56t, it does try though

dynonovember.jpg

RB25DET with standard internals

Highflowed turbo

Walbro 255lph fuel pump

3" exhaust with high flow cat

FMIC

Splitfire coilpacks

Power FC

Made 246rwkw on 16psi and drops back to 15psi. Tuned by Danny B

At Initial D Racing. Very happy with the result, next upgrade injectors, z32 afm, turbo.

post-80820-0-19201000-1323186435_thumb.jpg

93 model R33 GTST Forgied CP pistons, valve springs and stock every thing else.

550cc injectors

600x300x75mm Front mounted cooler

Xforce 3inch turbo back exhaust

Manual boost controller

ATR43SS3 prototype turbo

4inch intake pipe

Nistune

Z32 AFM in cooler piping

Pump 98 fuel. Car maxed 325rwkws

power.jpg

boost.jpg

Forgot to post this up in here as well...

'98 R34 GT with RB25DET Neo.

660cc Power Enterprise injectors.

Walbro 550hp fuel pump.

600x300x100 FMIC.

Custom 3" turbo-back exhaust.

Custom 3" stainless steel intake.

Greddy Profec B-Spec II.

NIStune.

Z32 AFM.

Hypergear ATR43 FNT G3.

Turbosmart Compgate 40 external wastegate with two 7psi springs.

PUSH565415428dbc.jpg

Tuned to run at 18psi, so still has a bit more in it.

Edited by Hanaldo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...