Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A mate in Brisbane saw an R34 this week with GTS-t badge on rear.

I rang a brake & suspension shop to get my brakes done, said it was an R34 & he asked me if it was a GTS-t or GTT.

GTST's have 310mm disc rotors & GTT's have 296mm - according to his brake manual.

That's all I know.

Its all weird. My Car is known as an R34 GT-T 2 door coupe. The badge on the back says 25GTt

25 being the engine, GT being most of the R34's and t being turbo.

Ive seen 25GT which are the N/A version.

The owners manual for my car doesnt list the GTST, only the GT-X (is a 4door rb20DEneo i think), GT-T 2 and 4 door and GT 2 and 4 door.

The difference between the R34 GTS-T and the R34 GT-T is that:

The R34 GT-T actually exists.

People can put incorrect badges on their car if they want to, like a GTR badge on a GTS-T.

Or have no badge at all (someone stole my GTR badge).

:D

R32 GTS-T = R33 GTS-T = R34 GT-T

R32 GTR = R33 GTR = R34 GTR

Guest RedLineGTR

R33 Grand Touring Sports Turbo - The 25 Stands for the 2.5 litre Engine.

Have a look if you still have the sticker on your r33 gts-t is states gts25t

R34 Grand Touring Turbo - The 25 Stands for the 2.5 litre Engine.

Have a look if you still have the sticker on your r34 gt-t is states gt25t

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...