Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A mate in Brisbane saw an R34 this week with GTS-t badge on rear.

I rang a brake & suspension shop to get my brakes done, said it was an R34 & he asked me if it was a GTS-t or GTT.

GTST's have 310mm disc rotors & GTT's have 296mm - according to his brake manual.

That's all I know.

Its all weird. My Car is known as an R34 GT-T 2 door coupe. The badge on the back says 25GTt

25 being the engine, GT being most of the R34's and t being turbo.

Ive seen 25GT which are the N/A version.

The owners manual for my car doesnt list the GTST, only the GT-X (is a 4door rb20DEneo i think), GT-T 2 and 4 door and GT 2 and 4 door.

The difference between the R34 GTS-T and the R34 GT-T is that:

The R34 GT-T actually exists.

People can put incorrect badges on their car if they want to, like a GTR badge on a GTS-T.

Or have no badge at all (someone stole my GTR badge).

:D

R32 GTS-T = R33 GTS-T = R34 GT-T

R32 GTR = R33 GTR = R34 GTR

Guest RedLineGTR

R33 Grand Touring Sports Turbo - The 25 Stands for the 2.5 litre Engine.

Have a look if you still have the sticker on your r33 gts-t is states gts25t

R34 Grand Touring Turbo - The 25 Stands for the 2.5 litre Engine.

Have a look if you still have the sticker on your r34 gt-t is states gt25t

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...