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Ok so the other test that seems easy enough (with the right equipment) would be to check what pressure the pump produces when its on. If its in spec its probably safe to just replace the pressure switch, and if not it makes sense to replace the whole unit. Does that sound sensible? EDIT: Do you have a spare pressure switch you want to sell? -
Decided to remove the clutch booster as it’s more things that can go wrong and it frees up a lot of room and means less vacuum lines running around the engine bay old one out and on the floor new one ready to go back in installed! I haven’t swapped the slave onto it yet, I will wait until the engine and box are in to see if I need to change the line or any thing -
Yeah exactly the switch unit just needs to be designed with those numbers (or thereabouts, obviously the high one is the more dangerous if you don't get it right). It would be worth contacting FPG, they are pretty responsive and might be able to add to their lineup with you M35 information, the have 80% sorted already from the GTR one. https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/ -
Have you explored this possibility further? I've been quietly watching this story unfold, early on I thought seems like bad fuel. -
Sorry I'm not familiar with the 34 setup and don't have the 34 wiring diagram. This snip from the 32 manual might help with how Nissan thinks, note there are 2 fuses to the hazards, #17 and #22....are you certain all your fuses are good?
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