Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

From my knowledge... Any ECU will work in an auto 33 Skyline... They just don't change gears properly... The shift from 1 to 2 is HARSH!! And it holds gears too long and it doesn't kick down...

This is definately the case with the Wolf Plugin and more than likely the case with the PowerFC...

I'm in the process of working out which signals need to be brought across to the auto ECU to "help" with this problem... It will never be perfect though, but some gains have been made...

hey im pretty much in the same situation

haave an auto r33

i was wondering with the haltech ecu i think its the e6X

if ya can put that into an auto, i'll find out more info but

yeah at the moment thats what im goin to do with replacin the stock ecu

just got the t04E hybrid turbo

be doin front mount soonish

and will have to find someone who can do a custom manifold for a good price .

From my knowledge...  Any ECU will work in an auto 33 Skyline...  They just don't change gears properly...  The shift from 1 to 2 is HARSH!!  And it holds gears too long and it doesn't kick down...

 

This is definately the case with the Wolf Plugin and more than likely the case with the PowerFC...

 

I'm in the process of working out which signals need to be brought across to the auto ECU to "help" with this problem...  It will never be perfect though, but some gains have been made...

Yeh ive done some research into this aswell and found that NO stand alone management works properly with the automatic gearbox. There is no gear logic code (thanks sk) :(

Been in autos with a wolf and powerfc now, wolf was better but still too much for me.

We know that the only way to have control over fuel and timing on the automatics without any change in the gear logic etc is to use piggybacks - most commonly SAFC2+SITC. Ive been told by a few people now that tuning the SITC does not affect the autobox at all, making it the only device i know of able to controll timing properly on an autobox without affecting it.

Obviously this limits tuning capacity and capability,

by only having about 260rwkw (highest ive found on standard ecu with piggybacks) of power available, only +- 50% fuel cotrol and timing control of 5 increments (800, 2400, 4000, 5600 & 7200rpm) with adjustment upto +- 15 degrees.

We know the SAFC2 can work with a Z32AFM in an automatic, well pretty certain anyway :)

And that larger injectors CAN be used by tuning the SAFC2 but its still uncertain how well they will work and what problems will occur when only being about to controll the air/fuel ratios to run the injectors.

Thats bout all i can think of :wassup:

in this thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...t=automatic+ecu

sst in perth seem to claim that the wolf plug in will work perfectly with no splicing on a r33 auto . does anyone have concrete info contrary to this ?

my fav autronic tuner in perth claims he can get an autronic shifting perfectly also . he also is working on a remapable nissan ecu replacement , using a different ecu modified to work in the r33 . Im inclined to belevie him on the autronic as he knows his shit and had some very hardcore s13 autos running them

arkon i have wolf in my auto 33 and steve convienently doesnt say anything about any shifting problems with the auto.......... but my gears hold much longer then they should the kick down didnt work properly and 1-2 gearchange is harsh

i bought this unit under the pretense it did work perfectly with the auto as that what a workshop in perth told me..... hmmmm

Yes I have been going through this for a while I currently have a Wolf3D but I still haven't got it installed as yet just waiting for my intercooler to turn up.

I have tried the Power FC and it was harsh I have tried the wolf but just with steve-sst base map it was harsh but not as harsh as the power FC still needs some tuning.

Now people are saying that there wolf ecu are not working properly with there auto ecu and the gear changers are still harsh, I really didn't want to hear this.

Maybe Auto Skylines are supose to stay stock :( and just look good.......................

When the gearbox changes gears it tells the ecu to drop the timing and/or fuel momentarily so that the power is dropped and the gearbox doesn't suffer on the change.

ECU's like PFC and Wolf don't do this so you will probably eventually blow up your box.

I have a chipped ECU in my R34 tiptronic.

arkon i have wolf in my auto 33 and steve convienently doesnt say anything about any shifting problems with the auto.......... but my gears hold much longer then they should the kick down didnt work properly and 1-2 gearchange is harsh

i bought this unit under the pretense it did work perfectly with the auto as that what a workshop in perth told me..... hmmmm

how much of this could be controlled buy tuning the wolf , would some wolf installs be better than others ? or is it a matter of its just not possible because of hardware.

perhaps a manual conversion will come sooner rather than later

i am enjoying the lazyness of the auto though

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...