Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On the street it is normally between 78 and 80. At the track it normally gets up to around 95 after 3 laps. If i keep the rev limit to around 6,200rpm ish then the watre doesnt really go above 90, and i cold drive for 10 laps. But the extra 2,000rpm really knocks out some extra temperature.  

One day i might get a radiator, but its easier to drive around with the heater on high and full bore, and back off after 3 laps. it only takesa lap cruising in 5th for temps to drop back to a pint where you can get up it again:)

Hi Roy, what's the oil temp like?:)

edit...man i should proof read what i type or get typing lessons:(

It aint brilliant, it gets up to about 110-120degrees pretty quick...yeh, yeh i kow where is my water cooled turbo:)

Over the next few days im going to get some ducting with a new bar sorted..also want to get a channel for the logger hooked up for oil pressure, any ideas on the best way to go about this? Was wanting to stay away from using the factory instrument, but not too sure how to go about/where to instal a pressure sensor???

Thtas a good result. Is that with the Apexi AX53B70 turbo? What exhaust goiusing size, P22?   If you can let me know what wheel/tyres you are running? At 221rwkws at 16.5psi it looks like we may have stumbled onto another nice RB20 turbo setup as its low mount, bolts onto the std manifold etc etc. Give it a hit at 18psi and 22psi, go on you know you want to:)

Im waiting to try and get an EBC on my thing again, as with just the bleeder it runs a pretty stable 17/18psi, but you cna hear the gate open before im at full boost so maybe can get a bit more response ou tof the turbo...perhaps your setup is the same? But serisouly that looks to be a great setup:thumbsup:

yeah thats the turbo, going back to tuners tommorrow to check up on tune and will probably get about 18psi put into it. wheel tyres size, um 17*8 235/45 front and 17*9 255/40 rear.

with a ebc i would imagine a bit more boost response just have to get the cash to afford it

the turbo kits come as a standard manifold bolt on but with its own water/oil lines and new actuator

couple of questions for u fellow rb20det power fc users...

do u have any problems with your tacho, mine seems to jump around when i start to loose traction... it jumps between 7000-9000rpm, when the engine is obviously not doing those revs. makes it really annoying cause i cant work out when to change in first 3 gears hahhaha

also roy can u tell me approx how much timing you are running in the top end of ur map under full load

Should have another dyno graph up today hopefully. Had many niggling ecu troubles of late but looks like its all sorted.

If it goes through its cold start cycle this morning without any hiccups I can pick it up.

Changes made from the 225rwkw run are a different ignition setup, went remote mount VT coils ( didnt see the $600 nengun splitfires oh well ) and spark gap was able to increase from 0.6 to 0.9mm. Also swapped out the GTR injectors for same capacity high impedance 4 pintle Bosch ones that are used in XR6T upgrades.

Outright power has increased to 238rwkw on 12psi and I will see the average gains when I get the graph.

OK I was a bit ambitious to post what I said earlier without seeing the graphs as I assumed boost level was same as before.

Actual boost level this time is a more beleivable 16psi (4,000rpm) but still a result I am happy with considering its the factory turbo.

But.....I didnt even make it home. As alluded to earlier I have had many a drama with the ecu having a mind of its own. Its already been swapped for an exchange unit, been nearly completely rewired and given the poor sod whos task its been to get it right nightmares.

The workshop kept it a few days after they thought it was right to see if anything reared its head and were positive it was working as it should. Before I left, I drove it around the workshops area for 30 minutes and was very happy and gave him the thumbs up.

15kms down the road and its sounding like a WRX again and down on power. Turned round to limp it back and not even a km later it loses another 40% power and stalls and then wont fire up at all. So back to the shop again. I swear modifying cars is for the insane.

The last time I put my RB20det on the dyno it was doing 216 HP @ 118 kph. Since the have rebuilt top end ( found 3 sheared off studs on exhaust manifold, screws missing from valves on carburetta, and leaks everywere...), installed large intercooler, put on a rollerbearing turbo from R32 and replaced dodgy old exhuast.

Still yet to re dyno but am expecting for around 245 HP. will let you know how it goes.

"FATGTS-R : Thats still quite good ! what turbo are you running?"

It is the R31 GTSR factory turbo which is basically a T3 ex housing and a T04 compressor cover and wheels. It also has the factory tubular long runner ex manifold which helps a bit too I guess.

Hey all,

Just had my RB20 dynoed today and this is the results I got with just a 3" cat back exhaust with 3" pipe in place of cat convertor, factory boost and airpod.

Does that power output sound about right? Because I have a mate who has an R32 and has a full 3" turbo back system with split dump, 12 pound boost and FMIC who put out 198hp and considering the mods he has it seems a bit weird that my car is very close to his hp figure considering the mods.

I would consider myself someone who knows a bit about cars, but I don't know much about tuning for a good hp figure. Basically the sheet doesn't mean much to me but the highest hp figure I got. The A/F ratio to me seems like it is running a crap load rich but I'm wouldn't have a clue. Could anyone please explain to me what the sheet actually tells me rather than just the peak hp figure.

Cheers

IMG_0034.JPG

Hey all,

Just had my RB20 dynoed today and this is the results I got with just a 3" cat back exhaust with 3" pipe in place of cat convertor, factory boost and airpod.

Does that power output sound about right? Because I have a mate who has an R32 and has a full 3" turbo back system with split dump, 12 pound boost and FMIC who put out 198hp and considering the mods he has it seems a bit weird that my car is very close to his hp figure considering the mods.

I would consider myself someone who knows a bit about cars, but I don't know much about tuning for a good hp figure. Basically the sheet doesn't mean much to me but the highest hp figure I got. The A/F ratio to me seems like it is running a crap load rich but I'm wouldn't have a clue. Could anyone please explain to me what the sheet actually tells me rather than just the peak hp figure.

Cheers

First off let me say that Lumps knows what he is doing. That's a pretty good result for 9 psi, so the tuning must be damn good. Do you have the A/F ratios graph?:(

Hey all,

Just had my RB20 dynoed today and this is the results I got with just a 3" cat back exhaust with 3" pipe in place of cat convertor, factory boost and airpod.

Does that power output sound about right? Because I have a mate who has an R32 and has a full 3" turbo back system with split dump, 12 pound boost and FMIC who put out 198hp and considering the mods he has it seems a bit weird that my car is very close to his hp figure considering the mods.

I would consider myself someone who knows a bit about cars, but I don't know much about tuning for a good hp figure. Basically the sheet doesn't mean much to me but the highest hp figure I got. The A/F ratio to me seems like it is running a crap load rich but I'm wouldn't have a clue. Could anyone please explain to me what the sheet actually tells me rather than just the peak hp figure.

Cheers

Could have something to do with the lack of a cat converter.

First off let me say that Lumps knows what he is doing.  That's a pretty good result for 9 psi, so the tuning must be damn good.  Do you have the A/F ratios graph?:)

Haha nah that was exactly how I recieved the car from Japan with just an airpod and catback exhaust with a straight through pipe added. No tuning involved, just put it on the dyno for two runs to see the power I recieved and thats what I got. Is that result unusually high?

I thought that lower graph the one not showing the hp output was the A/F ratio?

Look at the other side of the graph, its ur boost level!

Pretty decent dyno result

Haha of course. Didn't read the numerical value's and assumed it was the A/F ratio. I wasn't supplied with a A/F graph at the dyno day, should all dyno's supply an A/F ratio graph? Or on dyno days do they just throw the cars through only to test the rwhp output?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...