Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i thought the rb25's were making atleast 230-240kw atw with this kind of gcg hi-flow turbo, about $2000 that i seen in another post. I maybe wrong so please correct me. Just thought it would make a bit more power than that on an rb20. thanks

Yeah, thats on the RB25, 500cc more.

unless you screw a stupid stupid amount of boost into it you might get close to 230/240rwkw.

I noticed another post your trying to build a 280rwkw RB20... good luck as its a mission with the best advice i can give of... drop 40rwkw of your peak and you'll make it a lot easier/cheaper

Thanks R31NISMOID ill think about the advice.ill still wana try for 280 - 290. but if it becomes to much of a task, price and brain-muddling wise 240 maydo. What is the rb20 gearbox rated at, what type of power could it take? It wont be thrashed as i would only use that power occasionally.Also what do you reckon about these turbo's both from turbonetics to make this power? Im after something that will spool fairly quickly and stong up top. I haver all my other parts sussed but the turbo is the main concern.

The 60-1 Performance Turbocharger

Representing the careful marriage of a unique high flow/high efficiency compressor section teamed up with a T4 turbine section the 60-1 has proven itself in every competitive motorsport application from drag racing to bonneville. Available with either the standard (4” inlet, 2.5” discharge) compressor housing or the 60-1 HI-FI ( 2 3/4” inlet, 2” discharge) compressor housing, the 60-1 will outflow any standard T04B with ease! (The 60-1 HI-FI will deliver approximately 90-95% of the flow capacity of the standard 60-1.)

OR

All T3/T4 Hybrid Turbochargers are available with the patented Ceramic Ball-Bearing option highlighted in the Ceramic Ball Bearing page. The Ceramic Ball-Bearing T3/T4 Hybrid series offers the fastest spool-up available. Coupled with extreme durability, the Ceramic Ball-Bearing concept provides unparalleled performance never before experienced by the turbocharging aftermarket. All T3/T4 Hybrid's are custom matched for specific applications. Airflow ratings from 250 HP to 500 HP are available. Contact a TURBONETICS Turbo Specialist for application assistance and availability.

The first one my mechanic told me is a ball bearing and is rated at 500hp.

Any help would be awsome. Cheers

I suggest (again)

read this thread, all 48 pages of it.

Posts by a number of users in this thread (Roy is one) will give you the turbo specs and what you need to get it to 240rwkw or there abouts.

Thanks R31NISMOID ill think about the advice.ill still wana try for 280 - 290. but if it becomes to much of a task, price and brain-muddling wise 240 maydo. What is the rb20 gearbox rated at, what type of power could it take? It wont be thrashed as i would only use that power occasionally.Also what do you reckon about these turbo's both from turbonetics to make this power? Im after something that will spool fairly quickly and stong up top. I haver all my other parts sussed but the turbo is the main concern.

The 60-1 Performance Turbocharger

Representing the careful marriage of a unique high flow/high efficiency compressor section teamed up with a T4 turbine section the 60-1 has proven itself in every competitive motorsport application from drag racing to bonneville. Available with either the standard (4” inlet, 2.5” discharge) compressor housing or the 60-1 HI-FI ( 2 3/4” inlet, 2” discharge) compressor housing, the 60-1 will outflow any standard T04B with ease! (The 60-1 HI-FI will deliver approximately 90-95% of the flow capacity of the standard 60-1.)

OR

All T3/T4 Hybrid Turbochargers are available with the patented Ceramic Ball-Bearing option highlighted in the Ceramic Ball Bearing page. The Ceramic Ball-Bearing T3/T4 Hybrid series offers the fastest spool-up available. Coupled with extreme durability, the Ceramic Ball-Bearing concept provides unparalleled performance never before experienced by the turbocharging aftermarket. All T3/T4 Hybrid's are custom matched for specific applications. Airflow ratings from 250 HP to 500 HP are available. Contact a TURBONETICS Turbo Specialist for application assistance and availability.

The first one my mechanic told me is a ball bearing and is rated at 500hp.

Any help would be awsome. Cheers

60-1 comes in both bb and plain bearing

Had mine on the dyno today. A few problems but won't go in to it as its not an RB20DET.

Besides the point.. We were talking about a nice little R32 there.

THey bolted a GT3040 up to it with a .48 turbine housing from GCG, boost control was erratic, multiple forms of boost control were tried, boost would constantly peak up then fade of peak up fade off..

It was put down to a bad match turbine housing/wheel match.

A GT28 of some sort is going on it. :D

With the GT3040 .48 it made 6psi by 4000rpm, not too bad, just a pitty it didn't perform. :huh:

60-1 comes in both bb and plain bearing

Yea i think he said 1200 or $1300 for the plain bearing and 1950 for the ball bearing what do u think about it? I just wana try something a lil different than the usual 230-240kw, not saying that its bad or nething, i might end up doing it myself, I wana see what else can be done with the rb20 and give use some feedback how it goes.I just need some answers for the time being as i wish to have all the work complete within these 2months.

I have gone through all these pages but there are new things people are trying each week and wana be upto date.

thanks for any help u will bring foward. :huh:

I have to say, BD4s were pricey at times, but like anything you get what you pay for and the guys were always great. They dotn do anything by halves and dont do band aid fixes (My experiences anyway over 4-5 years of using them)

In my eyes one of the better places in Sydney...and one of the few that would work back late on a Wednesday night welding up control arms for me as i had to be at the track the next morning :huh:

I have to say, BD4s were pricey at times, but like anything you get what you pay for and the guys were always great. They dotn do anything by halves and dont do band aid fixes (My experiences anyway over 4-5 years of using them)

In my eyes one of the better places in Sydney...and one of the few that would work back late on a Wednesday night welding up control arms for me as i had to be at the track the next morning :D

yeh Tom was working back on mine aswell, other guys looked like they wanted to go home, hahaha

i couldnt believe how detailed the HKS software was, u get what u pay for but Tom wont over charge you, he will just expect a lil more $ for alot more work.

i ended up with 211rwkw @ 1 bar, no point tunring up the boost cause it would only result in larger pressure drops..

next time ill be there with a EBC @17psi, should do 220 easy.

yeh Tom was working back on mine aswell, other guys looked like they wanted to go home, hahaha

i couldnt believe how detailed the HKS software was, u get what u pay for but Tom wont over charge you, he will just expect a lil more $ for alot more work.

i ended up with 211rwkw @ 1 bar, no point tunring up the boost cause it would only result in larger pressure drops..

next time ill be there with a EBC @17psi, should do 220 easy.

What turbo? I thought you were running an R33 RB25 turbo?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...