Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On the R31house site, they show a GTSR resto and it shows a brand spankers turbo so obviuosly they are available but I agree it would have cost a bomb.

I have the homologation papers for the GTSR and it doesnt show any turbo changes but I guess it doesnt really mean anything as there was a lot of "grey" areas.

OK, I need a PC literate person here atm. I scanned the graph and the file size is over 11mb.

Obviuosly too big but how do I reduce the file size so I can upload it?

If it isnt already save it as a jpeg, then try changing the resolution to something lower, around 500x500 ish should be good, depends on what program you are using as to how you do this.

If this worked here is the graph. A LOT smoother tune than previous where boost ramped so hard it wheel span in third and almost in fourth. Now it is a lot more linear and just pulls away very hard in third with no sign of spin at all.

post-7700-1137250542.jpg

Edited by FATGTS-R

What kind of turbo was used to make that much power on an RB20? thats awesome! i thougth the old school T04 setup the gtsr's had wouldnt make anywhere near that power & still be reasonably responsive. is full boost around 4000rpm?

216rwkws at 4,500 rpm. I so hope that is a stock RB20:)

The old RB20 has plenty of legs if you spend th emoney in the right places....Hell they won the ATCC in 1990 so they cant be too bad a thing:)

The more i see posted here, the more i think that you need a good exhaust manifold if you want to have any power between 3,500 and 4,500rpm.

Makes me a little paranoid about how good the cast HKS manifold i have will go?

All this taslk about ball bearing turbos, 2835s being great...i figure ill give one a go and see how it compares...then either the TD06 or the 2835 will be for sale

that sounds like a great comparison! I take it will be the same racepace dyno and tuner? :P

just get 1 run on the dyno again with the TD06 set up so you are sure of the base numbers, as if the dyno has been recalibrated or so settings changed then your old numbers will not be entirely comparable.

anyway, i already can't wait to see the results! :P

216rwkws at 4,500 rpm. I so hope that is a stock RB20:)

The old RB20 has plenty of legs if you spend th emoney in the right places....Hell they won the ATCC in 1990 so they cant be too bad a thing:)

The more i see posted here, the more i think that you need a good exhaust manifold if you want to have any power between 3,500 and 4,500rpm. 

Makes me a little paranoid about how good the cast HKS manifold i have will go?

roy, ive got the hks cast mani on my rb20 and havent had a problem yet with it.

Yeh, but are the runner lenghts etc as ideal as my tubular Trust manifold, or a GTS-R manifold. Im not sure, and my friend who knows more then i will ever know doubts the 2835 with cast manifold will keep up wiht the TD06...which makes me htink perhapsi need to hunt down a HKS tubular manifold or even better another Trust manifold, and just modify the flange...then it will be a good comparision

Yeh, but the Trust flange uses a 3 bolt flange. If i run the same manifold then any difference will be the turbo.

If i can get a Trust one and change the flange on it, it would be an interesting comparison as it would be same engine, same manifold and gate, same tuner and dyno....the only variable would be the turbo.

Yeh, but the Trust flange uses a 3 bolt flange. If i run the same manifold then any difference will be the turbo.

If i can get a Trust one and change the flange on it, it would be an interesting comparison as it would be same engine, same manifold and gate, same tuner and dyno....the only variable would be the turbo.

not sure if you would want to do this but OBX (read: dodgy copy parts) here stateside makes a turbo manifold which is an EXACT copy of the trust one, might be worthwhile picking one up if you are going to be hacking it up anyways as they are fairly cheap to be had and to me dont look anyworse than a trust unit.

i too have wondered about the efficiency of the hks unit but it seems to be working fine so no need to change it imho.

nice power fatgts-r

until 4500 it is very similar to my graph but then opens can of woop arse on mine top end... so there goes roys theory of the manifold being needed :D

hopefully with a bit more boost (aka 20psi) i should be seeing a similar curve to yours just a little less top end more like 250rwkw. but then again i might get all happy and try and run 22psi as well as see how well she goes

im about to do a au falcon coil pack conversion to see if it fixes my miss, ill let u guys know how it goes

Edited by Cerbera
nice power fatgts-r

until 4500 it is very similar to my graph but then opens can of woop arse on mine top end... so there goes roys theory of the manifold being needed :D

hopefully with a bit more boost (aka 20psi) i should be seeing a similar curve to yours just a little less top end more like 250rwkw. but then again i might get all happy and try and run 22psi as well as see how well she goes

im about to do a au falcon coil pack conversion to see if it fixes my miss, ill let u guys know how it goes

But isnt your APexi turbo only a 320hp turbo, their equivelant to a 2530? If thats the case i would hope it matches his up 4,500rpm?!?!?!?!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...