Jump to content
SAU Community

My HICAS light turns on when long driving.

4bella

By 4bella,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

4bella Collaborator

4bella

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, i have a r32 1992 gts-t and my HICAS light turns on everytime im on the freeway and after travelling for 20 mins straight on the freeway my HICAS light always turns on. When i have stopped driving and turned off the car and then turn it on again the HICAS light is off again. But when i drive on the freeway for 20 mins or so straight it turns right back on again. But when im just driving around the neighbourhood where im stopping n going it never turns on. You guys know why its doing this? Thanks

performance-wise Grand Master

performance-wise

Posted
Posted

Hey mate,

I dont know much about HICAS but here is a bit of info regarding the warning light from my R33 handbook manual;

HICAS WARNING LIGHT

This light will normally show for a few seconds when the ignition is first turned to the ON position and then go out. Should this light remain on , or appear while driving, it may indicate that there is a fault in the SUPER HICAS Electronic control system. In this situation, normal suspension will resume.

I am not 100% sure but I think that you may have to replace the HICAS computer, which I think is located under your parcel tray??

Or you could get a HICAS lock.

Hope this is usefull.

:D

nedb Proficient

nedb

Posted
Posted

4bella - i got the same problem, well mine is a bit worse. sometimes the rear end starts turning as i'm going straigh so it feels like drifting and then the light comes on and it becomes normal. this is only sometimes. so now i'm driving with the unplugged comp and no problems. :rolleyes:))

i've been looking at it for a while now and no success as yet to fix it.

thanx again for the help today.

MacGuyver Mentor

MacGuyver

Posted
Posted

I have that problem also: after long drives the light comes on and goes off after I turn the car off. I noticed the problem first started happening when I installed my MOMO steeing wheel but I also got a HKB boss kit that is suited for HICAS cars. In anycase when the light comes on I don't notice any handling dramas.

"If it's brown, drink it down. If it's black send it back"

GTR V Enthusiast

GTR V

Posted
Posted
I have that problem also: after long drives the light comes on and goes off after I turn the car off. I noticed the problem first started happening when I installed my MOMO steeing wheel but I also got a HKB boss kit that is suited for HICAS cars. In anycase when the light comes on I don't notice any handling dramas.

"If it's brown, drink it down. If it's black send it back"

You have got the wrong boss kit.

The boss will have 2 rectangular holes which should match up with 2 locators on the ring at the top of the steering column which is part of your hicas sensor.

This ring is attached to the top of the steering column by 4 screws.

At the 6 o'clock position of the ring there should be a small window which aligns up with the actual sensor in behind the ring. If the window does not line up the hicas will fail. This does not happen until the car is going in a straght line for some distance and then the sensor thinks the car is turning and goes into fail mode and your light will come on. Hope this of some help to you.

If you want me to explain it any further send me an email to [email protected]

makaveli Mentor

makaveli

Posted
Posted

I have had the exact same problem,

The HICAS can do this for a number of reasons:

- Not enough power steering fluid

- Wrong Boss Kit

- It may be stuffed

- Need a wheel alignment

Although to my knowledge the most common of all is that the sensor is not set in the hole in the boss kit, or it is in the hole and it just needs to be secured.

2LV8ETR Mentor

2LV8ETR

Posted
Posted

There's another reason...

The HICAS positioning sensor behind the steering wheel requires constant input to inform the computer of the steering wheel position. When you turn the steering wheel, the sensor moves with the steering wheel and informs the computer of the front wheel's are turning. The computer then turns the rear wheels according to the angle of the front wheels, and the speed of the vehicle at the time of the turn.

The main problem with freeways is that they don't contain sharp turns, but the sensor requires a substantial amount of input and you don't get that amount of turn input on freeways. This means:

The computer detects foreward motion (speedo).

There is no input due to the small steering movements on freeways.

The computer thinks something's amiss and locks out the rear steering only.

the lockouts are a pain in the butt, but nothing to really worry about. After all, who out there has also intalled a HICAS lockout kit??

Slide Grand Master

Slide

Posted
Posted

if the car has been in a crash from the rear it could have put it out,the hicas angle sensor more than likely is the problem.

there are tests on this site for diagnostics check them out before going crazy and just replacing stuff though

hope to help..

Slide Grand Master

Slide

Posted
Posted
OR your vehicle has been fitted with a Hicas Lock bar........the light will do the same thing if you have a lock bar installed. I suggest fitting one as hicas sucks dogs nuts.

hehehe yeah dogs nuts :D

ScottKing GTS-4 Community Regular

ScottKing GTS-4

Posted
Posted

The wheel angle sensor could be upside down on the boss kit. On the R32 it has Nissan written on it, take the boss off, rotate the wheel angle sensor until the Nissan logo is up the top or the wire connecting the horn is at about 2:00 and re-fit the boss. Also helps to wrap some slightly thicker rubber around the large prong on the wheel angle sensor to ensure it has a tight fit against the boss.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • dyl33
      VOLK RACING GTC CENTRE CAPS

      By dyl33 · Posted

      Centre caps $250
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Duncan
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...