Jump to content
SAU Community

r32 gtr owners.

Driver

By Driver,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Morgs Veteran

Morgs

Posted
Posted

At this stage I'm not sure, considering taking this oppurtunity to get out of the game for a while, as I've owned the car for a year or so and only done 5000-6000km in it its hard to justify how much money I spend on it.

Have got a few options but might have to deny the dream path of glory ;)

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Micko Veteran

Micko

Posted
Posted

Hey there Driver - the real question here is can you afford to be replacing turbos when you get your car?

It seems like a bit of a lottery as to how much boost they will hold - I was running 14psi when one of the turbs spat the wheel out the ar$e end:Oops:

Had to buy some 2530's to fix the problem:elaugh:

Steve is a total nutter (j/k steve)...oh, & he owns a performance workshop so he can repair things a little cheaper since he does all the work. Keep pushing em Stevo you'll get those turbs soon enough:D

Nugget_GTR Collaborator

Nugget_GTR

Posted
Posted

Yeah i run 16 on then but im unsure if they are completely stock turbos have not had the car that long and still finding stuff out about it, was running on about 16 when i first got it ad 10 on low.

On this question how much boost should the fuel system keep up with?

cause just the other night my electronic boost controller scewed up and i wasnt really paying attention to my boost gauge but i thought to my self damn the car seams to be hammering and out of the corner of my eye when i accelerated my boost gauge went past 20psi and i was like ahhhhhhhhh but the wired thing is it wasnt detonating was running nice and the turbos seem fine and it wasnt just for a second it was on 20psi of a good haul... but i was so worried afterward. would the stock system be able to handle something like that?? or would there be something no standard there?

its really a lucky dip when getting stuff imported.

Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted
but the wired thing is it wasnt detonating was running nice and the turbos seem fine

As they say, by the time you can audibly hear the car detonating from within the cabin, its too far gone.

We managed to squeeze 210awkw out of mine before the fuel pump started maxing out. Some get a little more, some get a little less.

Nugget_GTR Collaborator

Nugget_GTR

Posted
Posted

mmm well thats ok cause i have an after market fuel pump know that for sure apart from it saying on the engineering papers you can hear it :D

but damn if it was detonating im sure the engine would have suffered but there is no signs of it, engine still have good comp... or a i was just really really luck i got a new controller in there since so no more going above 15 for me

  • 3 months later...
Sneaker Enthusiast

Sneaker

Posted
Posted

Clarification: So 1bar worth of boost on the stock turbos seem to be okay? Is failure past this because of the actual boost or the fact that the turbine shaft speed is too fast causing delamination?

The reason I ask is because I am about to undertake up grades in the way of a competition dump pipes and y piece as well as a retune on the dyno. I already have a larger free-flowing FMIC and pods. What worries me is that with all these mods I will have less restriction in the system and therefore less boost. If I then up the boost to 1bar I would imagine the shaft speed will be greater than a near standard system with 1bar.

Am I on the right track? If so, should I tune for 0.9bar or even less?

So is it the boost or the shaft speed?

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
Posted
So is it the boost or the shaft speed?

Just jammin here but I assume heat would be the cause. Differences in thermal expansion between the metal shaft and the ceramic exhaust wheel could cause it to detach...

Whether the heat is a result of exhaust restriction or excessive shaft rpms would depend on the setup I spose.

Sneaker Enthusiast

Sneaker

Posted
Posted
Just jammin here but I assume heat would be the cause. Differences in thermal expansion between the metal shaft and the ceramic exhaust wheel could cause it to detach...  

Whether the heat is a result of exhaust restriction or excessive shaft rpms would depend on the setup I spose.

If so that is good news, as taking out restrictions should also drop the thermal loading. I am putting on 9in long dumps that are ceramic coated so it should keep a lot of heat away from the turbo and engine bay.

Does this sound right? Can anyone concur?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • The Bogan
      SAU NSW - R U OK? Southern Highlands Cruise

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...