Jump to content
SAU Community

trust intercooler kit

bazr33

By bazr33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

bazr33 Mentor

bazr33

Posted
Posted

hey guys im purchasing this intercooler kit for 720 bucks

it is off ebay

this is what the seller has put in for the kits info

NISSAN SKYLINE R33 FULL MANDREL BEND ALLOY INTERCOOLER KIT, EVERYTHING YOU NEED!

SIZE IS 800mm WIDE X 300 HIGH AND NOT QUITE 80mm THICK WITH 75mm OUTLET PIPES,

FULL KIT,

INCLUDES,

3 INCH ALLOY MANDREL BENT PIPING

ALL SILICON HOSING AND COUPLINGS

AND THE MONSTER COOLER,

AS YOU SEE THE ONE INSTALLED ON THE R33 IN THE PHOTOS'

ALL BRAND NEW IN THE BOX,

$1660 IN THE PERFORMANCE SHOPS

AND ADDS UPTO 40HP MORE TO YOUR TURBO MOTOR AS IT REPLENISHES THE AIR MOLECULES IN THE SYSTEM AND ALSO PREVENTS SYSTEM FAILURE,

THIS ITEM IS BRAND NEW AND COMES WITH ADDITIONAL STICKERS FOR YOUR BACK WINDOW AS ADVERTISING MATERIAL FOR THE BRAND NAME (TRUST)?

it sounds pretty good

im just verifying to you guys to see if it sounds good

and if yas want a pic i dont know how to put one on here but i can send ya one by email

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59185-trust-intercooler-kit/
Share on other sites
riggaP Veteran

riggaP

Posted
Posted

Yeah it sounds like a good one. Do you know what model it is? I had a VSP-L while ago before I was forced to sell it. It should even come with a replacement washer bottle to accommodate the piping. $720 is a bloody good price too... if its new.

SAMFISHER Enthusiast

SAMFISHER

Posted
Posted

Trust dont make kit for sklyines that includes a 800mm wide intercooler, 600mm only. hieght and depth are either 240mm /76mm for the smaller models or up to 294mm /115mm for the drag version.

These specs dont match up so dont expect it to be an actual Trust intercooler.

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted

How much is it?

I recall one person from this forum that purchsed one of those "Trust" intercoolers from

e-bay that turned out to be nothing more than a chinese Hybrid style cooler with the Trust logo sprayed onto the front. This was a dead give away as the core was very obviously not a Trust core and furthermore Trust doesnt spray their logo on their intercoolers.

Be careful

bazr33 Mentor

bazr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the ppl sound to be genuine, but yeah who knows over the net on ebay

it has trust i think painted on the front with trust stamped onto the top of the cooler aswell

even if its like a hybrid still 720 bucks for all piping and clamps and shit still good enough for me

i'll let yas know what its like

Guest RedLineGTR

Guest RedLineGTR

Posted
Posted

okay i have found your auction...and no i'm not going to buy it..

This is what i know and think from looking at the pics and seeing a genuine one a couple months back that my mate installed.

1. The ebay auction has 3 pics of the cooler etc each one has something different on it.

2. One pic has a side shot of the cooler and you can barely see the trust logo "it was yellow" either it is faded now etc.

3. Another pic has the cooler with a dark blue paint sprayed on it to form the TRUST logo.

4. Another shot seems to have no logo at all, but this may be because of the distance of the shot.

5. The return pipes on a GENUINE TRUST intercooler do not look like that.

6. The End tank on the return side of the intercooler is not how it looks on a GENUINE TRUST intercooler.

7. The return piping does not have greddy stickers on it like the ones on the pictures.

8. The TRUST stamp on the top of the cooler in one shot it looks like a bit genuine, but then i saw the side shot of it and it looks like it has a "Block" sort of border around the TRUST logo, which almost gives it the effect that it may of been sprayed on with like a Silver paint for effect.

This is what i have gathered from seeing the pictures. Even without writing all, i can honestly say its not a genuine greddy/trust kit.

Cheers Rob

PS. Still seems like a good price.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...