Jump to content
SAU Community

got my GTR!!! :|

PHATR32

By PHATR32,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

ylwgtr2 Grand Master

ylwgtr2

Posted
Posted
thanx heaps ylwgtr2, reading that makes me feel a lot better.

i had a closer look at it, and the damage wasnt done from a forklift. the damage goes across one side. it looks like it was beached (or what ever you call it)

ill try to take some more pics. i dont think theyll be able flatten this one out, its squashed down too much.

thanx again dude.

steve

I think you would be suprised at what can be fixed....at worse a new one should still be available...or at even worse....you could make that section of rail quite easy with the use of a guilotine and a bender...i made one once because there was a few weeks wait from japan,it took about two and a half hours to scribe it all out,hole saw the original holes and bend it into shape....the tricky part is there is an offset section with a flattened out part...just takes a bit of "blacksmithing"to shape it

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

dayne Rising Star

dayne

Posted
Posted

Hey man, Cheer up you can look at it on the bright side of things atleast your cars got a healthy engine in it, and the damage wont be that hard to fix providing you have had a bit of mechanical experience and stuff before!!

My brothers car had damage kinda similar to yours, sept the difference was his was at the start of his chasis rail. Now how they fixed this was to drill all the spot welds off the rail, and make it a little more 'workable'. You should be able to jack the car up and basically un do all the welds, and put a large clap on the rail once done. When you've got to this step, you should be able to change the angle and mounting possitions on the clamp and heat up the rail with a oxy. Once this is done, and while still very hot (should be close to red if not red) tighten the clamps to force the metal back down and the middle should pop down fairly well! remember when doing this go that little bit extra because the metal will always come back! Weld the spot welds back up and your set. Once this is done do what ylwgtr2 said, and beat it up a little with the hammer getting a little more shape into it.

When you've done this grind it back a little and put some fill in there then spray it with under body spray (hides alot) and just give it a quick hit with some black paint again!

Shouldnt be too hard really, just takes alot of time!! If you dont feel comfortable with it, just take it to a panel beater, they shouldnt charge too much and should do a reasonable job, and like everyone else said, everythings fixable so dont worry what others say!!!

Take an easy, hope your happy with your gtr other then this!!

Dayne

ylwgtr2 Grand Master

ylwgtr2

Posted
Posted

by looking at the pressing of it and unnatural marks/lines created by the accident/damage......the only damage that will cause ill fated handling are the ones that mount suspension parts....this is unless the motor is 1metre further back than it should be creating an unbalance...altho 1 would assume this would be noticible :cheers:

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

Do you have pics of the undercarriage of the car before it left japan? If it wasn't there prior to shipping, and you shipped with an insured carrier (eg Kiwi) then you can claim the cost of the damages.

PHATR32 Grand Master

PHATR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

no they didnt give me any pics of the undercarrage, and they didnt say anything damage.

I guess ill be taking it to a pro. i dont want to try something like this on my own. Id do anything, but bodywork. i dont trust my self enuff.

anyways, thanks for all the info guys. i feel a lot better.

crap thing now is the money i had set aside for getting the paint mint has to go to this repiar.

oh well, importing is a risk well all take.....

steve

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted

I think bennettaru might be asking which shipping line you got it here by, as the agent is rather irrelevant if the damage was caused when the car was moved for storage/shipping.

Judging by your avatar it was a Japan Auto Direct car (even if you bought through Prestige).

LW.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

I would almost bet that the car was forkilifted in Japan, not here. I have seen numerous Jap cars come in with forklift marks of varying degrees of severity. Although as you say your's may not be a forklift mark at all, but caused by something else. Either way, I'd say it happend in Japan. Bummer.

Richard

PHATR32 Grand Master

PHATR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah it sux, but at least its fixable. it looks like the money i have set aside to do up the paint or what ever, will have to go to fixing this problem.

at least the engine and box are good, the interior is almost perfect, cept for a tear in the drivers side seat.

I also found a pair of HKS super sequential bovs and a nismo 2 way diff so they were bonuses.

also the brakes are in real good condition.

oh well, the risks of importing........

steve

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

Just make sure you get it repaired professionally mate, cause after looking at those pics again it's pretty serious damage. you want to make sure you have a straight GTR when all this is over. then you will sleep much better :)

Rezz Grand Master

Rezz

Posted
Posted

Guys if you think this kinda undercarriage damage has to do with shipping companies then you'd be wrong...

My car (yes $2,000 shitter) has EXACTLY the same undercarriage damage... and it hasn't even left Japan!!!!

This kinda dodgy sh*t happens right here in Japan, and don't think these dodgy bastards in the car trade will be honest about it. They'll pick up the car with a forklift for any reason at all... jeez I think sometimes (for example) the car hoist is already being used at the reapair shop so they just lift the thing up with a fork lift and try and fix whatever needs to be fixed... the Japanese are dodgier than the Artful dodger himself.

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted

Rezz: I'm sure what you say its true, but it can be important for insurance claim purposes to work out where the damage occurred (though, IMHO, its an uphill battle).

Doubtless the shipping companies and/or storage companies and/or auction houses -- or any other of the people that get access to these cars during their eventual journey to Australia -- use the same methods as bad dealerships: wheel out the forklift, bugger the consequences.

LW.

Guest Mashrock

Guest Mashrock

Posted
Posted

haha i have seen damage to almost every car that my mate brings into auz!!

its not from forklifts its from either mechenics or whoever owned the car in japan..

where ever they jack the car up from to change a tyre etc.

not much care is taken!

rezz seems to be on about something tho.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...