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jsut wondering if there is anyway i can run a duel stage boost controller and set one setting to 0psi and one to standard 7psi. it is on an R33 GTS-T i want to run the 0 boost setting in the wet till i get more experience.

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Unfortunately the stock actuator controls the low boost setting. You could manually disconnect it from the wastegate, then youd have pretty much no boost.

Or you can take it easy in the wet, it's not particularly hard as the stock boost response isn't that harsh and so easily controlled. Plus you get used to what the car will do in the wet for when you wind in some boost :)

yeah it's also for help with the cops. and i think it'll jsut be good to be able to turn the turbo down a bit...i'm jsut tryin to keep myself within my means actually be one of those responsible skyline drivers lol. if i disconnect the actuator control can i get it to run stock boost jsut by using a duel stage boost controller and switching between them?

basically, you can't. ok, I'll try and explain better this time.

the lowest psi the turbo can run at is determined by the spring of the waste gate. e.g. the stock one lets you run 5 psi, and 5 psi is the minimum. even if you have an electronic boost controller, you can turn the boost up, but, even if you switch the controller off, it will not go below 5 psi.

You can have no boost by disconencting the wastegate actuator. This means, no boost at all. You cannot have boost unless you reconnect it.

an r33 gtst is quite easy to drive, especially with stock turbo. Just don't press the accelerator hard, and it won't accelerate hard. it won't even come onto much boost if you give it a decent press. You basically have to floor it to get 5 psi. the boost comes on very linear on the rb25, compared to something like a sr20. So, to answer your question, I guess try not to think of it as boost. people get scared by the term boost. Think of it rather as just how much acceleration you want, more = press harder, less = press less (boost is quite linear in rb25).

thanks for the detailed explaination i think i get it now. to make it only run 5psi i jsut disconnect the solenoid correct? but the extra 2 psi isn't going to do much is it. how hard is it to reach the waste gate actuator?

yep i think thats right you will only get 5psi. u dont need to worry about the extra 2psi cause that only happens after 4500rpm and only if ur at full throttle. also at that rpm ur by far in motion and the only way its gonna powerslide in the wet is if you want it to. the car doesnt decide out of the blue if it wants to break traction, its ur foot that decides, and thats connected to your brain. as stated before, the car doesnt automatically jump from 0 to 5psi unless you want it to. like i said it all comes down to your foot and accelerator control, heck i could drive my car with minimal to no boost at all and still get around fine thru throttle control.

i personally think this is the wrong way of goin about gettin to know your car and driving experience. what happens when you get used to driving the car with no boost and then one day decide to switch it back on and have it bite you in the ass at the wrong time cause you werent expecting it. just drive it with the stock boost in the dry and cautiously in the wet, practice your throttle control and you will learn thru experiences that the car will and wont spin its wheels at certain rpms/boost, how to get out of it by gently easing off the throttle. u'll also learn not to panic the next time it happens plus the knowledge of why it happened in the first place.

my 2cents

thanks. u guys obviously seem to be speaking from experience. i htink i'll do that. another reason was my dad wanted me to turn boost off for a while because he heard that they were very tail happy. i think if i jsut take it easy i should learn about the car like u have been saying

when i 1st got my car i had my p's for about a month the 1st time i was taking it for a test drive and i hit boost (15psi) i shit myself as it was my 1st time driving a turbo'd car id driven v8's but the power just doesnt come one like a turbo, i just learned to take it easy untill i got used to the handling of the car, then when i got used to my car i gave it and got used to it and knew when boost would come in, ive had a few close encounters one night it just finished raining and i gave it a bit around a corner then boost kicked in and i ended up going straight for a power pole but luckly i was able to get out of it, its just experience just dont be a hero when your driving and you'll be fine :(

have fun

This is true....

Even with an avc-r (im the expert i rekon) you can only get down to 4psi....

Because for the electronic boost controller to work its needs presure to re-divert to the wastegate.... Then the tention on the spring decided what is the lowest psi setting...

IE> If the spring was old and crap it may only take 4psi to push.... However if it were new and nice and tight then it may take 6psi to push it... Causeing the wastegate to open... Then bpsst will remain...

Also with a busted wastegate (ie. wide open all the time) the car will still produce 4psi... (as i found out when it seized once, at least it siezed open and not closed.... Ummm)

Hey Mark..

Personally, i dont think it is worth the hassle of what has been suggested...

A stock R33 GTST, running stock boost, is no different (danger/acceleration wise) from owning a (say) v8 (vt holden or au ford) - i really cant see the acceleration causing too much hassle in regards to your driving... (unless you are reckless - which, from this post, it seems you are not)

My advice - is to keep the beast stock - spend some $$ on handling if required (suspension, strut braces, etc) and also an advanced driver course.

With your road-wise attitude - im sure you would benefit from the above much more than retarding the boost....and im also sure your dad would also approve....

An added benefit is that some insurance companies view favourably the advanced driver course when considering premiums...

The bottom line - if you are a responsible driver (or at least have a responsible attidude to driving) - why detune your car when the RTA, insurance companies and yourself wont recognize it ?? (also, you will gain valuable experience driving a high powered car)

:)

Matt

Ive got a boost controller with low n high boost ...... i run stock boost on the low so about 6psi on low when i wanna conserve fuel and on high i run about 12psi.

If you want 0 boost ..... then you shoulve bought a N/A.

Basically just keep the boost low, invest in driver training and take it easy. When your a new driver with a turbo car the wet weather can be very intimidating - its good to see somebody that wants to keep himself and his car in one piece :)

yeah i'm doing an advanced/defensive driving course in feb i think. the main reason was i was told that R33 GTS-T's are a bit tail happy. i jsut bought a white 1995 GTS-T i think it will have a turbo back exhaust and air filter (unsure because they will be added as a bonus) so how tail happy are they???

Nah GTST's arent that bad if you have a good set of tyres. If you feel the back end slipping just take your foot off the accelerator and they snap in better than any other car ive driven.

Its all in the way you drive.... If you step out of a WRX and into a RWD skyline. Then go threw a corner as per normal you will get it sideways....

If you wanta drift then push it.... If you want to be fast dont accel through a corner. Brake before the corner and apply a little threw the corner, then once straight flaten it out again.

Sideways is not fast, fun but not fast....

Do as i do, remember if you get the car sideways you are chewing money ($400 per type on the back of mine) so i simplly dont do it.... Wait for a race meet at your local race track. Put on a pair of stocko's and go have some fun....

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