Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 years later...

Decided not to noob up and start a new thread with the same questions and info.

From my ride thread.

Bodykit is ordered. Im awaiting its delivery any day. I got the bomex front bar, a modified bomex rear bar for 4 door application, and a set of modified gtr skirts. Bonnet arrives today - carbon of course.

Nissan-R34-TopSecret-Bomex-Frontbar.jpg

Nissan-R34-TopSecret-Bomex-Rearbar.jpg

r34-side-skirts-j.gif

r34bxcbonnet.jpg

r34bxcbonnet2.jpg

Once its painted and fitted that may do me for a while. See how the bug hits me. im already keen on changing tail lights for the gtr version thats for sure so im sure knowing me it'll be a matter of time before it gets out of hand...

Here's my understanding of bodykits for r34 and inparticular 4 door versions from my researchings over the last few weeks...

East bear - available at a very high price but a solid look, very boxed but still agressive.

Uras - its common as hell IMO and is basically the kit available on most rides out there, simply skirting off the bumper, is not custom enough for me. if you can buy it on ebay its hardly a one off...

Bomex/C West - bit of a blurry line as to whats what but in the 4 door only the front bars available so far. Im not a fan of the snow plow look so i started searching suppliers to see what else is around in oz.

Ordering my kit:

As i understand it the front bars on the 4 door gtt are no different to any other 2 door gtt, so the bomex was an easy choice for me. As was the carbon bonnet. They checked into it to be sure and confirmed the front bars and bonnet are same.

The side skirts require stretching on my guys advice and he just so happened to have a set of stretched r34 gtr ones available. Hopefully they turn out nicely.

The rear bar of course being different was chopped and adjusted to suit and again in my case was attainable as it was lying around almost done. Mines been symettrically matched and the flutes removed so it could be an interesting look.

Hopefully this will start a wave of kits based on the 4 door model r34 but who knows it could all go pear shaped and i end up with some lines that dont mesh right, or a kit thats just not suited to the shape of the 4 door looking forced or wrapped into position.

Im a big fan of the 4 door so far as its a commonly overlooked model, thats IMO got styling appeal all of its own... Fingers crossed it works out. The wheels are my next pondering, im just not sure how they'll end up lookin after it's done...

Nice kits, i wish they had those GTT Badges here. What i would do for those..................

also i saw the GTT 700BHP RB30 in the redline magazine, that things a monster. i love the front and rear guards on it.

seen them on ebay quite a bit $20-30 or so..

Hi Denis if you ever see a link on ebay for those badges please let me / us know, thanks mate., im on ebay every day seriously lol(the wonders of mobile technology) and im yet to find one.

cheers,

David.

definately a fan of the c west lines and the sleek look of it for sure. I love the jdl kit too, but the full one was over done for me.

Always annoying though theres never much around in 4 door and there's no shortage of hot combo's for the 2 door. Thats a good thing for a guy like me though.

They have all of these photos on their website, but there is something about them that looks so photoshopped.

post-40562-1240264121_thumb.jpg post-40562-1240264140_thumb.jpg post-40562-1240264165_thumb.jpg

im just about to change my kit from cwest front, sides and bomex rear to do luck front, bomex sides and rear.. IMHO its one of the better looking kits out there, ive never really been into bit kits on 34's but never really appreciated the standard kits either... i think you can never go wrong with bomex sides and rear but do luck front bar gives 34 great presence.

21155245.png

although u can forget about speed bumps, steep driveways, most shopping centres, maccas, and hit and runs on small children... cause the ground clearance aint exactly optimal.

Edited by Sammy34
im just about to change my kit from cwest front, sides and bomex rear to do luck front, bomex sides and rear.. IMHO its one of the better looking kits out there, ive never really been into bit kits on 34's but never really appreciated the standard kits either... i think you can never go wrong with bomex sides and rear but do luck front bar gives 34 great presence.

although u can forget about speed bumps, steep driveways, most shopping centres, maccas, and hit and runs on small children... cause the ground clearance aint exactly optimal.

ive always had a soft spot for the do-luck kit, the full kit is quite hot, but never mind hit and runs, that front bar will swallow some small children whole!

  • 2 months later...

hey guys im planning on this front bar l_826852e0cfd84a20b1d86461fd5a47d6.png

just confirming is that a top secret bar? anybody know where to get that exact one from?

i've seen alot of different versions of top secret front bars.

planning on putting a vented hood from vivagarage (type W), would put a pic but their site is copyrighted, sorry

and impul sides. not too sure on rear, didnt like the impul rear thaat much.

also planning to put on volk gt-c or stock gt-r rims on the car too.

any opinions :)? especially regarding the rear bumper

Edited by Jonno34
hey guys im planning on this front bar l_826852e0cfd84a20b1d86461fd5a47d6.png

just confirming is that a top secret bar? anybody know where to get that exact one from?

i've seen alot of different versions of top secret front bars.

planning on putting a vented hood from vivagarage (type W), would put a pic but their site is copyrighted, sorry

and impul sides. not too sure on rear, didnt like the impul rear thaat much.

also planning to put on volk gt-c or stock gt-r rims on the car too.

any opinions :)? especially regarding the rear bumper

It is Top Secret, I have one. Check my Garage in profile.

I got mine from PSI parts, It was a good fit, not great. I run carbon cannards and there was not enough of a lip underneath to mount them optimally.

ah thats good then, i was planning on getting my Impul sides from psiparts as well, would be nice to get my whole kit from them.

anybody got any recommendations on rear bumper? i wasnt too into the Impul rear, im more into a stock gt-r look rear bumper, but the only company that makes something like that is east bear and im not really able to pay their prices...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...