Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I find you will only be beaten by an Auto if you don't know how to drive your manual :D

There was a reason the GTR didn't come out auto.. auto is horrible.

AHAHahahaah Amen.

I am not a fan of Autos AT ALL...

I like to slap 2nd and skate past my automatic rivals.

Unless its a worked auto with a stall converter and shift kitted, i dont like it.

To me, driving a manual car hard (on a track or twisties driving) i have more control over the car. I can use compression to slow down, i choose when it changes gears and when it doesnt etc etc.

I think it could be dangerous if for example, you were doing some hard driving in the mountains, and you put your foot down in an auto and it was unpredictable when it kicked down, if it kicked down too late and you were not expecting it to, the consequences could suck.

Also, gives you something to do whilst driving, makes it more interesting !

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I like to slap 2nd and skate past my automatic rivals.!

I think your rivals are already well ahead of you by then. The only reason you skate past them is that the run is over and they have backed off. Just think about the slightly taller diff ratio in an auto, when you are reaching for second they still have a bit to go in first. (So why would you have caught them by the 1st to second change)

I think it could be dangerous if for example, you were doing some hard driving in the mountains, and you put your foot down in an auto and it was unpredictable when it kicked down, if it kicked down too late and you were not expecting it to, the consequences could suck.

From this it sounds like there should be hundreds of autos written off on those twisty hill runs, but for some reason they are never there when I go up. I'd be happy to buy some of the wrecks and get the go faster pieces.

I find you will only be beaten by an Auto if you don't know how to drive your manual :D

There was a reason the GTR didn't come out auto.. auto is horrible.

Well apparently there were a few Auto GTR's.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=61246

Also, when doing a hill climb you can use the HOLD button and it wont downshift unexpectedly.

i think we all need to agree to disagree! it seems like auto/manual is a personal pref. in two cars both equipped with the same mods, the auto may be faster in a drag depending on the manual drivers capability, however auto does suck for say track and the such.

I think your rivals are already well ahead of you by then. The only reason you skate past them is that the run is over and they have backed off. Just think about the slightly taller diff ratio in an auto, when you are reaching for second they still have a bit to go in first. (So why would you have caught them by the 1st to second change)

Sorry buddy, thats where you are wrong - and if you race to 2nd gear, you are a retard. It is an art form to launch a high powered manual car properly, any idiot can launch an auto. I am sorry if you are unfamiliar with wheel spin.

From this it sounds like there should be hundreds of autos written off on those twisty hill runs, but for some reason they are never there when I go up. I'd be happy to buy some of the wrecks and get the go faster pieces.

I never said that cars were written off because of this, I just said its a situation i would not like to be in. If you state that you would rather an automatic transmission for twisty runs/race tracks - you have obviously never experienced a manual.

Sorry buddy, thats where you are wrong - and if you race to 2nd gear, you are a retard.  It is an art form to launch a high powered manual car properly, any idiot can launch an auto.  I am sorry if you are unfamiliar with wheel spin.

I never said that cars were written off because of this, I just said its a situation i would not like to be in.  If you state that you would rather an automatic transmission for twisty runs/race tracks - you have obviously never experienced a manual.

FFS :bs!: :kick:

I think somebody is playing with their gear stick too much

Auto is good when you don't want to control the car. Just sit there and stand on the accelerator. Where's the driver skill? The great thing about auto is that the car shifts for you, and you don't have to be bothered with changing the gears.

Heck, why not just not get in the car, and attach a remote control to the car. That way, the auto car is almost fully automated, you just stand by the side of the road and hit the green button to make it go. You even get to save that 80KG of fat your skeleton hauls around, improving the power-to-weight ratio.

No way, manual is the way to go.

I think a lot depends on where u do most of your driving.

eg. daily driver, going to work in city everyday stop/start constantly

I' d rather an auto. Especially, with heavy clutch.

For everything else eg. me going from suburbs to outer suburbs to work

everyday - not too much slo stop start = manual. Especially, cos I love

hillclimbs and twisty stuff.

Out of 6 cars, 5 have been manual (although the 1st was a column shift :(

so I guess its clear where my preferences are. Bottom line I was so glad to

get rid of that boring auto and get back into manual.

Auto is good when you don't want to control the car.  Just sit there and stand on the accelerator.  Where's the driver skill?  The great thing about auto is that the car shifts for you, and you don't have to be bothered with changing the gears.

Heck, why not just not get in the car, and attach a remote control to the car.  That way, the auto car is almost fully automated, you just stand by the side of the road and hit the green button to make it go.  You even get to save that 80KG of fat your skeleton hauls around, improving the power-to-weight ratio.

No way, manual is the way to go.

Saying that a car is auto so you dont drive it etc is a load of crap, all you have different is a clutch.

i can guarantee you ive spent/spend more time doing stuff to my car then you do (mainly cos im unemployed hehe) so saying i might aswell have a remote control is an insult to me.

All i have to say for those people who think autos are shit.. Have you owned or had the chance to use one properly? NO, so dont talk about something u dont know. Simple as that. :(

Slide: Revving and dropping into gears in any auto besides a racing transmission will destroy it pretty quickly.

The truth is no one has said the auto is better than manual, because its not, but its nowhere near as bad as all the knowalls say it is.

Auto or manual, the passion for performance and skylines is still there, Regardless of transmission. :burnout:

Another benefit of manual:

Halfway between woop woop and nowhere at 3.am and the starter motor shits itself.

Manual driver pushes a few metres, pops clutch and keeps on driving.

Auto driver has no signal on mobile to call tow truck and gets eaten alive by wild cops waiting for the sun to rise.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...