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If for example you had a standard R32 GTS-T which you put an exhaust,pod,intercooler and this boost controller onto then got your CPU remapped - Would the new fuel mapping alter your boost control? as your injectors are going to be operating at different duty cycles throughout the load range than what you have already set up.

you should remap it potentially yes - but for the most part (if you're not concerned about ramp up and so on) then all u need to do is look at ur boost gauge and make sure its hitting intended top boost, and holding it - if it is, then u can leave a remap for later on

Not sure you understood my question?

I'm going to get a remap! But the sole input to the boost controller is the duty cycle of the injectors!

So when the computer is remapped the fuel map will be altered = Where at a certain load point the injector duty cycle was 84% and after the remap it is now 72% (not as rich as standard). So to my reasoning your previously perfectly tuned IEBC will now be out of whack due to the change in fuel map - [richer in some parts (injector on for longer) and leaner in others (injector on for less time)] Therefor giving the boost controller different input values at different times which the controller will interprit and actuate the solonoid OK but the boost curve would be all over the place!

Then what do you do? Retune it after the map but then your fuel map will be out and you'll be chasing you tail forever and possibly causing leaning out?

Please give me your thoughts. Am I on to something?

you tune it the same time you do your computer - you need to do them together (if you are going to do them both eventually then you should do them at the same time)

you could leave the boost mapping, and depending how much you change ur fuel etc maps, there might not be a noticible difference, but you are right in that potentially you will need to remap it as ur points will now change

main thing im getting at is that the boost wont be as sensitive to changes you make to boost mapping - eg if u remapped ecu then leave boost as is, you might find it boosts slightly later, is slightly higher, tails off a tiny bit or whatever, but it wont be to the point that its not drivable and it might not even be noticable (depending how much ur ecu is changed in the remap)

Edited by NewKleer
  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys,

just wondering if any of you have used the IEBC on a GTR? what sort of results have you been getting in terms of holding a reasonable amount of boost?

i've got an R32GTR with HKS 2530's on it so I want to run a decent amount of boost to get my money's worth from the turbos.

if anyone has any info/ opinoins for or againts this proposed setup that'd be much appreciated!

cheers,

Alan

hey guys,

just wondering if any of you have used the IEBC on a GTR? what sort of results have you been getting in terms of holding a reasonable amount of boost?

i've got an R32GTR with HKS 2530's on it so I want to run a decent amount of boost to get my money's worth from the turbos.

if anyone has any info/ opinoins for or againts this proposed setup that'd be much appreciated!

cheers,

Alan

Hi Alan, no different to using the IEBC on any car, it works great.

:D cheers :D

  • 4 weeks later...

does anyone know if there are anything similar to the jaycar fuel control kit which works with karmann vortex type air-flow meters? (i.e use a frequency as opposed to voltage) I'm looking for something like this for my Cordia, this would be perfect, but it only lets you use a voltage based scale. I guess an SAFC would be the alternative, but the jaycar kit seems more tunable & i would also use the boost control kit.

  • 2 weeks later...

Looks like a very interesting kit, and SK's comments are really helpful as always.

You run a slight risk by using a serial boost controller in that a failure of any component means your boost will spike drastically because no pressure is reaching the wastegate. The tradeoff is that the spool behaviour is superior to a parallel bleed type.

Just built the DFA, and all working well.

Only one hiccup... if your changing voltage at an input load, say you hold down the 'double-up' button, after a couple of secs of holding it, it jumps to +128, which is fine. But if I then hold the 'double-down' button, it starts decreasing, but then jumps back to +128, like if I'd been holding the up button.

Anyone else seen this?? Hardly seems likely to be building fault to me, maybe PIC fault. Means to decrease I have to keep tapping button, holding it down makes it jump to +128 every time!

does anyone know if there are anything similar to the jaycar fuel control kit which works with karmann vortex type air-flow meters? (i.e use a frequency as opposed to voltage) I'm looking for something like this for my Cordia, this would be perfect, but it only lets you use a voltage based scale. I guess an SAFC would be the alternative, but the jaycar kit seems more tunable & i would also use the boost control kit.

Try the Jaycar Digital Pulse Adjuster, it is like the IEBC in that it takes a pulsed input (from the injectors in the case of the IEBC) and turns it into a pulsed output (to the boost control solenoid in the case of the IEBC). Have a read of the section on adjusting pulses in the book, Performance Electronics for Cars.

:P cheers :dry:

Edited by Sydneykid
Looks like a very interesting kit, and SK's comments are really helpful as always.

You run a slight risk by using a serial boost controller in that a failure of any component means your boost will spike drastically because no pressure is reaching the wastegate. The tradeoff is that the spool behaviour is superior to a parallel bleed type.

No more so than if the wastegate actuator vacuum hose falls off, splits or leaks. In fact, based on the reliabilty of electrical components in the cabin compared to rubber hoses under the bonnet, I would go the other way.

:P cheers :dry:

assuming you know how to build the kit reliably (ie not overheating sensitive components or forming poor solder joints) and you're careful when trying it out for the first time it should be sweet.

The main point of failure would probably be the solenoid. Should be a fairly low risk, I guess if you're paranoid you can always buy a brand new one that's guaranteed to last longer than you will :D

  • 3 weeks later...

anyone u pay to tune it should be able to (ie, they would otherwise be able to tune other things like SAFC etc). its pretty simple

u could do it urself also (just pay for 1hr dyno hire) if you have somewhat of an idea what you're doing (reading this thread would be a good start).

ive tuned mine twice now (second time we blew a tailshaft). hardest thing is getting the load points matched up with RPMS so u know which points to move up/down. just make sure you have someone listening for pinging (often dyno operator/assistant will)

best way to align rpm/load points is tell dyno operator to go thru a run slowly calling out every 500rpm, and u write the load point from handcontroller at that point. then when u look at graph, and see u need to lean, rpm from say 5000->5900, then u look at ur load points and u should be able to tell roughly where that is

Edited by NewKleer

and how much would it cost to get tuned on a dyno, with the tuner doing the tuning ?

how much to tune safc2 ?

havent done any tuning thus far, so not sure, but i did get a quote that sounded tooo high.

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