Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

U mean 90w for lowbeam?

I was pulled over by police for running them in my first car.

I was told to but back the origonal spec ones.

I think I was running 90/110 standard they were 45/55.

It also damages the reflective bit of the light after a while as it gets too hot and starts to peel.

Geeze,

I just got my r33 1 mth ago...first the left high beam went, now the left lowbeam is also gone! bloody.........

The previous owner had changed all the bulbs to Philips Enon 6000K. Dun ask me what they are, I just know they are good...well, until today...cos I dun have any beams on the left. Kinda sux.....

Help Anyone? I have read the whole thread, but no one can tell me how to fix it step by step.

timber32 , did you use a new switch assembly or used ?

if used thats your problem its not much better than yours . they are known to play up in all nissans not just skylines

is there seperate relays for left and right headlights ???

if so is it possible to join the two switch wires up which turn the relay on. that way wen u turn the knob on for the lights and there is bad contact, u still get both the relays goin on ??

is there seperate relays for left and right headlights ???

if so is it possible to join the two switch wires up which turn the relay on. that way wen u turn the knob on for the lights and there is bad contact, u still get both the relays goin on ??

Yep.. and Yep..

Thats what I did.

I mentioned it earlier on in this thread I think.

I pulled the dash switch out then soldered them both together at the end.. Or did I use a wire to join them.. It was a loooong time ago I did this mod. 2years to be exact. :D

Still working fine. :thumbsup:

So pull the switch out and bridge the two roll switches together.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

as already mentioned, if you can tap the switch and the lights flicker on turn on temporarily, then its most likely the little plastic bits which push the contacts open and closed in the light switch. its very easy to spot them once you open the switch, they are in a line of 3 and are spring loaded. The one that has melted (either just cus nissan miscalculated current draw with age/ higher wattage bulbs used/ or accessories being run from the light circuit ie gauges) is pretty obvious to see, what i did for a temporary measure was to trim the melted bits off as it tends to mushroom at the top, then grabbed the spring and stretched it out a bit more to make up for the part that melted, then reassembled it and checked continuity at the plug. Sure this solution isnt long term if your setup remains identicle, but it is free :( and the switch is not hard at all to take apart and reassemble. just wish id taken fotos for you lot.

switch.jpg

  • 8 months later...

Bringing up an old thread, as it just saved my ass quite a few dollars!

Everything is spot on... the switch was the cause of one of my headlights being out. Just took it out and gave it a good cleaning, played with the springs a bit, and Bob's ya uncle, all is sweet now!!!! Cheerio for everyone that posted here :D

Now to find a thread to fix my faulty climate control lol :headspin:

  • 5 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

well I have this issue now ;)

the right globe sometimes doesn't work, and the left I think blew last night!

hmmmm

I might try cubes trick! so for the R32 GTR a H1 globe is the one needed for the projector style low beam ? correct?

Apparently it's either H1 or H3 depending upon the car. From what I've read there doesn't seem to be any reason/correlation between model and bulb.

At the risk of stating the obvious, have you swapped bulbs between headlights to check it's not the globe?

Cubes' trick seems like the goods, but if it dies you'll lose both headlights. I tried buttondownpsycho's trick and it worked but I was messing around with the headlights and highbeam switches and managed to melt another little pot.

Used switches are under $50 from JustJap.

haha I didnt know this was a big issue with nissans Far out Hey as well as the head lights does anybody get the sticking Indicator I have to fiddle with the Hazzeds to fix it :s dont know WTF is with that. I think they must be dodgy Wireing or maybe there is a water Prob only seems to happen on Rainy days or very cold morning when there is Due.

Can anyone confirm that R32 headlights do not run relays?

For what it's worth, when I took my car to an autoelec with the headlight problem, he suggested putting in a relay, from the working headlight, to fix it.

*shrug*

  • 6 months later...

I ahd the same problem except was right side , replaced switch and problem solved :P

Now 1yr later has started again , mechanic's had been checking electrical problem {turns out to be afm again} and since then right headlight playing up again >_< This time I think it may be the relay {getting old }

For the rest of you though, I would suggest you track down a spare light switch and give that a go . As said above should only be $50. :sorcerer:

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • I'm interested,do you still have it?
×
×
  • Create New...