Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 376
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

:wavey: everything still going as planned? :P

(eager to get the new battery...my current one isn't liking the cold mornings)

Yea , i should have them Thursday , i will let you know when i have them here .

Me too, Thanks heaps Jerry. The battery is now installed, and appears to be working well :).

I actually had an old Odyssey 1200 battery, and just took the terminals off that. They were a direct fitment to this battery. (See photo's)

I had already altered my car's terminals to be of the bigger variety (that fits the majority of Australian batteries), and changed my positive wire to a longer one so that made everything that much easier to fit.

The battery infront of an Oddysey 1200 Battery:

CRW_1023_Medium_.JPG

Swapping the posts over:

CRW_1025_Medium_.JPG

The battery installed: (plenty of room)

CRW_1026_Medium_.JPG

Cheers again Jerry. Was great doing business with you. :D

Good luck at wsid next week!

  • 2 weeks later...

20x17x17 is rather wide the Original Yuasa type (YT-LB20L Super Sealed 12V 28AH 10.5kg) in mine is (in mm) 197x120x192 (LxWxH) If you go wider then the normal side clamps wont fit in their holes... I have the GTS-T HR33

Problem is the only place that sells these Yuasa are in Japan local Yuasa dealers don't sell car versions... just SLA versions.

Mine also seems to no longer hold charge though after being garaged for a long time...

If you read the previous posts you will see that you need to chande the top bracket so you can fit it in . BUt they do fit no problem at all in both gts 33 and gtr 33 .

Yep fits no problem, I put mine in the other day. Only cost $8 for an adjustable top bracket to hold it down.

The only annoying thing is that it doesn't come with posts, which caused a bit of fiddling around for me. (Of course, wrxhoon was upfront about this, I knew it didn't have posts when I ordered)

Yep fits no problem, I put mine in the other day. Only cost $8 for an adjustable top bracket to hold it down.

The only annoying thing is that it doesn't come with posts, which caused a bit of fiddling around for me. (Of course, wrxhoon was upfront about this, I knew it didn't have posts when I ordered)

What do you mean by posts? Doesn't come with posts?

Greg

What do you mean by posts? Doesn't come with posts?

Greg

more than likely it would be the rods that link into the base/battery holder.. and have the wing nuts on the top to hold it in place.

could be wrong though

more than likely it would be the rods that link into the  base/battery holder.. and have the wing nuts on the top to hold it in place.

could be wrong though

If you go to post 7 in this tread you will see in the pic that the batteries dont have posts , it has s/s screws on the terminals . You can buy posts if you like , you can cut the lead posts from any old battery , drill a whole then screw them on .

The neg terminal in the 33's has an eyelet you just put the s/s screw through that and screw it in . The possitive terminal you can turn on its side and use the s/s screw to srew it on the terminal . Some of the options that people have used .

Pavel , i still haven't received your money for the battery . If you dont want it thats fine but please let me know a.s.a.p. , someone else wants it ..

Was wondering wether these batteries are still available or wether your waiting on further numbers before ordering. Im not confirming an order yet, but will most likely be needing one soon and wanted to check availability.

Cheers, Sandy.

id probably be interested... How long does do these batts last, if you have a standard sub/stereo system running?

Sealed gel-cell batteries would last double the normal lead acid batteries as a rule .

I have a smaller one im my jetski , i had it for 2 years now and its still perfect , i dont bother charge it in winter but keeps charge o.k . all winter when the ski is not in use .

By the way these batteries are $140 now not 130 .

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...