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OK

Let me just start by saying that I believe that there is no such thing as a silly question

so here goes

After a full engine rebuild (see my N1 Turbo post) – I'm about to add somewhere in the vicinity of 100awkw to my R32 GTR (much happiness). Having added so much go – I figure I should also add some whoa

I have a std R32 GTR (no brembos – bugger !!) and I'm after some suggestions (keep them clean) for a break upgrade that does not also break the bank. I realize that my R32 has some reasonable stoppers (for it's day), but by modern standards, and with 300kw @ the street, I think I need some more comfort factor.

(all flames should be directed to /dev/null)

What options do I have ? - can I get something bigger from new R33/R34 models, what about GTSTs etc

Also – I'm currently running 'competition' pads – that I am told do not heat up enough during day to day driving – can I also get some recommendations for new pads.

NB – I'm a computer geek – not a mechanic – so any resemblance to the facts are purely coincidental.

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1. Complete overhaul of the calipers (saw a case today of a set of 4-spotters where only 1 of the 8 pots was actually moving).

2. Braided brake lines

3. Bendix Ultimates I reckon are the best bang-for-your-buck brake pad around.

4. Fresh brake fluid (DOT5)

I'd be going for complete aftermarket if I had 300awkw, i've lost my brakes at only 180rwkw (trackday tho so alittle different) and i'd rather have overkill brakes than 'just enuff'.

Calipers, rotors, braided lines. Standard master cylinder might need new seals and fresh fluid.

I'd be putting aside a solid $2.5k

well thanks for that - I was hoping for something a LITTLE more economical !!

I KNOW that this what I 'should' be doing – and to be honest I will keep my eyes / ears open for some Brembos or similar over the next few months – but I was looking for something short term and not too expensive. A full overhaul on my existing system with new pads is probably a good place to start.

Does anyone know exactly what is involved with the Supra rotor solution (see the post above) ? Is there a kit (part number?) that I can get – or are the rotors on my GTR already similar to the Supra anyway.

Do we have some recommendations for after market solutions (DBAs?)

DBA4000 Slotted = $800-900 (all 4)

RB74 front pads = $150

Bendix rears = ~$75 (guess)

Front braided lines = ~$550

Caliper overhaul = ~$500 (guess)

Ringup www.racebrakes.com.au and ask them, they know their shit.

1. Complete overhaul of the calipers (saw a case today of a set of 4-spotters where only 1 of the 8 pots was actually moving).

2. Braided brake lines

3. Bendix Ultimates I reckon are the best bang-for-your-buck brake pad around.

4. Fresh brake fluid (DOT5)

:werd:

this is where I would start, see how it goes and if you have a problem, probably not unless you are doing a lot of track work.

Assuming everything is working OK the standard brakes are pretty good. IMHO the brembos are overrated and a bit pricey considering they are still 4 caliper brakes.

If you really need more go for real brakes like the AP or brembo 6 piston sets.

For my car I have purchased the following, 89GTR btw

the Maltech Braided hose kit, front/ rear

Ferodo DS2500 fronts

Race brakes comp 2 rears

and some good motul fluid which will be used to flush the system too.

that should help mine and I'm going on the track a bit this year I would say. maybe some project mu 2 peice rotors later on this year :(

mark

From memory for my 33 gtst it was ~$180 for the master cylinder and ~$400 for all for calipers overhaul with new seals etc.

But then again after having 2 seal kits put on my master cylinder (by 2 diff brake "specialists") i ended up requiring a brand new cylinder from nissan japan coz the seal kits did absolutely nothing (as in couldnt even get enuff pressure to reverse out of mechanic garage).

That's just my personal experience though...

Assuming everything is working OK the standard brakes are pretty good.  IMHO the brembos are overrated and a bit pricey considering they are still 4 caliper brakes.

:werd:

As other have said, grab some nice rotors, pads, fluid, braided lines, adn perhaps strip down the calipers and throw a new seal kit in them. Dont bother with payign + $1500 for GTR Brembos, not when you can get much better AP 4 pots new for $800 each...or go 6pot:)

Even with such serious power, the std caliper will be up to the job if you keep rotor, pad and fluid temps where you need them. Sure bigger calipers would be nice, but i think they should be the last thing to consider.

If you really need more go for real brakes like the AP or brembo 6 piston sets.

this is what i heard from some GTR friend.

I never seen the brake in person so don't shoot me if i am wrong.

from what i know, the "GTR" brembo is overrated, too pricy and not really stop better than the 4 pot nissan one (compare of 2 Gts-t, 1 with those 330mm kit and 1 with GTR brembo)

Calipers is not about how many pot but the piston's size of the pot.

The brembo 4 pot brake kit (known as F40 brake) have bigger piston area then similar price 6 pot AP calipers.

More pot only give more linear brake feeling

The tyre is the limiting factor, I have yet to find a road tyre that can handle the standard R32GTR callipers, DBA slotted rotors and decent brake pads (we use Bendix Ultimates). Even on the race cars with "R" tyres, a simple upgrade to Hawke carbotics in the blue compound and we can still lock up the tyres even after a 20 minute race.

The secret is good brake fluid, braided lines and regularly overhauled callipers and master cylinder. Most brake problems have very little to do with the hardware itself, it is the maintenance or lack thereof that causes the problems.:cheers:

What brake fluid do you recommend SK?

After totally destroying my brake system at my first trackday I had everthing replaced (calipers and brake pedal is only original equipment) and im now using Motul RBF600 with boiling points of wet-216c and dry-312c.

Out if interest, what charges would one be looking at to overhaul the calipers and replace seals on the master cylinder? I'replaced rotors, pads, fluid etc before but have never pulled a caliper apart to overhaul it.
If you are careful, you can re-use the existing rubbers.

The problem, it seems, is that dust CAN get past the dust seal, and forms a 'concrete' barrier to prevent the piston coming out, or it might hold the piston in contact with the rotor. As I said, the example I saw was only 1 of 8 pistons actually popped out when the brake pedal was depressed after the pads had been removed (the owner is now in seventh heaven now he has stopping power!).

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