Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Next problem...came back from a short drive, no issues whatsoever.

Go to select reverse to go for a drive...and I could not select at all. So pushed the car out...and the rest of the box is perfect.

Could it be the reverse shift fork perhaps?

The box has been no problems apart from a very slight notchiness for 3/4th change...

Obviously the box has to come out to check the fork?

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62974-no-reverse-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

Doesn't reverse share the fork with 5th? does 5th work?

Does it just physically not go into gear? or do its go into gear but just act like its in neutral?

Ferni,

It wont go in at all. So physically it wont allow me to select reverse...

The manual shows a shared OD and Reverse fork rod, but also a dedicated reverse shift fork...

:headspin:

On the R31's, I think the reverse gear has no synchros so sometimes it just wont go into reverse. If you let the clutch out (in neutral) then in again it will then just slot straight in. Try pumping the clutch then trying again. It might be the same on the GT-R box. Worth a try anyhow.

It wont go in at all. So physically it wont allow me to select reverse...

Question is....can you still get 5th ?? Also does the shift lever still have normal travel when trying to get reverse ??...or does it stop part way ??

5th is 'operated' by a 'pin' link mounted on the reverse shift fork. If you can get 5th, then it's not a linkage problem, but probably a broken/damaged reverse shift fork or roll pin. If you can't get 5th it could be a linkage problem further forward in the 'box, but could also still be something to do with reverse mechanism. There are other remote possibilities like shaft circlips breaking.

Question is....can you still get 5th ??  Also does the shift lever still have normal travel when trying to get reverse ??...or does it stop part way ??

5th is 'operated' by a 'pin' link mounted on the reverse shift fork.  If you can get 5th, then it's not a linkage problem, but probably a broken/damaged reverse shift fork or roll pin.  If you can't get 5th it could be a linkage problem further forward in the 'box, but could also still be something to do with reverse mechanism.   There are other remote possibilities like shaft circlips breaking.

Thanks Steve. I can get 5th. I guess trying to fix this issue would be cheaper than getting another second hand box.

Could be a spring and ball issue locking me out of reverse perhaps?

You could have a look at the reverse check device which is mounted on the passenger side of the O/D case just below the pressed steel cover plate. It's held in by a 10mm head bolt and is sort of 'tear drop' in shape. It's got a 'cam' and hairspring arrangement and I suppose there's a remote possibility the spring could break. But if you've got normal lever travel when trying to select reverse it's unlikely to be that. Anyway, you could try taking it out and seeing if it makes any difference (note it's got a sealing o-ring on the body so might take a bit of levering, plus I'm not sure there's enough clearance to remove it completely with the gb in the car).

There's also a check ball, spring and plug for the O/D and reverse mechanism on the drivers side of the gearbox on the sandwich plate. Again, you could try taking out the plug and see if it makes any difference.

  • 7 months later...
Guest DIRTgarage
I've heard of the spring going...did you work it out?

Was there an easy way to fix it?

we had a reverse problem.....it was the reverse thrust washer in the rear half of the box....it stopped us selecting it at all....it was in a second hand box we borrowed when we smashed on at Eastern Creek earlier this year.

also check your hydraulics. much cheaper than pulling out the box and it's possible that a dud slave or master is preventing you from completely disengaging the clutch, hence you are unable to select reverse. easiest way to test this is to switch off the engine, then try and select reverse.

  • 4 months later...

*bump*

Hi team.

Same problem here. Gearbox oil is 1,000km old. Reverse no worky. Difficult to engage 5th when engine is off and without the clutch. 1st through 4th engage engine off no clutch.

Reverse does not engage at any time. It does not move on the fork at all. The wasn't any crunch/bang nor any whining in the gearbox prior to failure.

Thanks Steve and Paul for the info! It gives me something to go on.

Here's hoping I can sort this out in the garage... it crumped whilst taking my wife out for our wedding anniversary! :P Sure puts the pressure on at the shops when you only have one shot to nail the parking space. :)

@R32zilla: Mate did you sort this out in the end?

Edited by cowie165

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...