Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys thanks for your help with my gearbox. I changed the oil and its 100%better not as much heat, no noise and smooth changes ( :

One thing that might help is that i sythened the oil in by running a pipe into the gearbox and poured the oil in the other side instead of using a pump to pump the oil in. I found this very easy

Once again thanks heaps guys ( :

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i changed my geaarbox oil on the weekend because it was crunching going into 4th at full load. put castrol vmx80, nulon addative and found about a litre of lightwieght redline oil so put that in there too.

didn't see a change staight away, but after about 200k's of driving the problem went away. now i can change into 4th at redline.

is it safe to mix oils???

Hi all.. I reckon this cold gearbox problem must be a skyline thing 'cause mine from 1st to 2nd on a cold morning is not very nice. As someone mentioned before, double clutching helps but after about 5-10mins driving around it's all sweet.

Not long ago I put Royal Purple max gear in both the gearbox and diff. It did improve my gearbox on the cold starts as it now takes less time to become smooth.. and when it is smooth it's much better than it used to be :(

Gizmo73 also used Royal Purple and he reckons it also improved his gearbox over the Redline Shockproof.

its bad to mix synthetic and mineral oils in your gearbox.

Ive been told that once you run synthetic, if you run mineral oil after, you will ruin the gear system. If you read up and do a search on it, you will understand. The synthetic oil beds into the gears, and then running mineral oil will eat away at the gears. Have a read of it, because im not 100% what it was exactly

hi guys my car produces alot of heat from under the gear stick. Do you think this is the gearbox or the exhast or sumthing? It gets quite hot after driving a while. Could it be that my trans oil is low? Any suggestions will help thank you

Mine gets hot but haven't noticed any mechanical problems well not so far anyway

its bad to mix synthetic and mineral oils in your gearbox.

Ive been told that once you run synthetic, if you run mineral oil after, you will ruin the gear system. If you read up and do a search on it, you will understand. The synthetic oil beds into the gears, and then running mineral oil will eat away at the gears. Have a read of it, because im not 100% what it was exactly

why would you use mineral???

use the synthetic stuff

if you mix 50/50 mineral and syththetic in your gearbox might not be good idea.

However if you drain all the oil out of the gearbox and refill it with either sythetic or mineral you should have no issues with oil mixing together

BUT STICK WITH SYTHETIC BETTER PROPERTIES AND LONGER LASTING

cheers

  • 8 months later...

Hey i dont know if i done it correct or not.......umm, i used the fill plug, which was on the passenger side of my car to drain the oil.....i then dropped the jack down, open the bonnet, took off the dip stick, and used a funnel to fill the trans fluid into my car (auto's have the dip stick).....is this correct???as i didnt see a drain + fill plug, only the fill plug on the bottom( i guess the fill/drain are the same in autos....as its there to just drain then?)

  • 4 months later...

Nope, definately didn't drop the oil (not that silly) just checked if I could loosen them both first, was only able to get the drain plug.

PT, yep, it's manual, but what's involved in pulling out the shifter? Just unscrew the 4 screws, lift the plate/cover then fill? (measuring the quantities of course)

I'm against filling through the shifter due to the extra difficulty in measuring the amount going in and the risk of getting that stinking crap in the interior. Get a breaker bar on to the filler plug, mine was tight as a... well it was very tight and a breaker bar was needed to get it off. I then used a $10 pump bottle from supercheap to get the oil in. I also did a write up of this process if you need further info.

Cheers

nissan reckon vmx-80, i hated the shit it was too thin

im using the thickest shit available @ repco in my rb30 box, kinda shit to drive when cold, but i used the nulon manual box treatment aswell

i fill thru the shifter, just use a funnel and measure it before you tip it in

Edited by Rednisr31

Not sure what the 33 box is like but on the 32 box the reversing switch is the same height as the fill plug. I couldn't get my fill plug undone so I took the reversing switch out and used that hole to fill it instead :D

ActionDan, beleive me, I've tried to get the bloody thing out but it just won't budge!!! Measuring the quantity of oil would be easy as would using a funnel to pour it into the shifter so it looks like it's the best bet for me at the moment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...