Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I'm hoping someone here can help me,

Last night whilst driving home, i had a blow out :), alas i pulled over, jacked the side up and found that the wheels on the car have a lock nut, to which the previous owner did not give me on sale what i wanna know is, can i take it to a tire shop and show all the paperwork to state i own the car etc to get these locknuts taken off and replaced?

i ended up havin to drive on a flat :), even that tire inflate foam stuff didn't work.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63602-terrible-night-need-urgent-help/
Share on other sites

not really. There are many different brands of lock nuts. In each brand, there are probably 500 combinations.

On the locknut key, there is usually a number, and you have to know which company it is too. You can't just go to the shop, because a) they won't know what key it is and b)they won't know who makes it.

i'm sure they'd do it if they could.

Your best bet would have to be to try and contact the previous owner. If not, the only way to remove it, would be the good old mechanical way? Hit it hard with a hammer to loosen it, then try to drill the lock nut off, or drill a hole in the back of the stud and use an extractor?

tough situation. Sorry I couldn't offer what you wanted to hear

Note to self - i've had a half worn lock nut tool. I'm gonna try and buy a new key, or change the locknuts before they get stuck.

Cheers

have a look everywhere througout the car, ie. in the boot around spare wheel, in map pockets, glove box, centre console. pockets behind seats etc. if you havent owned the car for long, the locknut key might still be there hidden away somewhere.

vicegrips sometimes work to remove locknuts, but if the bolt holes on the wheels are sunken in, then there that probably wont work. Or maybe you can make a mould of the locknut key with something? i dunno, get some clay or some shit - worth a try

If you still can't get it, you'll probably have to drill out the stud, but studs are pretty easy to replace

I had this problem on a friends car but we eventually found the locknut key. First thing we did after that was remove the locknuts for good!

I had the same problem(except for the blow out)

Just foun different sized sockets that were close to the size, went to Cash Converters and bought some around that size for 50c each then bashed em on the lock nut.

(bought 2nd hand ones cause they were gunna get ruined anyway)

Was hard work but had to be done, and did finally get there in the end

same problem...i had a blow out not very long ago..and that was my worst fear as i bought the car and had no idea where the lock nut key were as the previous owner now overseas...i tried all autoshops that sells them.

pretty much make a mould of it...and then take it with you and compare if the ones they have down the shop would fit...i hadn't had luck though.. got home and check all the compartments that maybe it was just hidden somewhere...and i found it in the glove box.. DOH...i should have looked first..LOL.

Anyways...a friend of mine had the same thing..he took it down to machine shop and had them taken off..pretty much what they did was stick a metal to the nuts and weld them.. i must say he done a pretty good job...and he made it look easy.

hope that helps.

any decent tyre placeshould be able to remove the nut without the tool it came with. just call them up and say "i have a nock nut on my wheel but ive lost the fitting to remove it, can you remove it at the workshop"

i can pretty much guarantee you they didnt use my fitting and managed to take my wheels off change the rubber and put it back on within about 4 minutes.

get a nice strong socket a lil larger than the nut, then get a nice tough hammer.

and put the the socket over it and start smashing it on!!

hopefully the socket is stronger than the nut though

then it will just wedge into shape and use the wrench to twist!!

kapish??

Im with silver gts-t.That is exactly what i had to do to mine to get the lock nuts off after i lost it.Look everywhere for the lock nut key.

1st i found a nut that would go over it neatly then one just down from it's size that wouldnt go on,1-2mm undersize,maybee 1mm under cant remember

Then went to hardware house looked in their $1 socket boxes found the size i wanted and got 4 of them i rooted 1 and then i used 1 for the rest of the 3 nuts,lucky i guess.

just bash them on using somthing to space the nut and the hammer.I used another socket in between,so as to not damage the rim.

Another way is to pack the socket with bits of steel ie.pop rivet shafts/offcuts.To further wedge and give more grip on the lock nut.

I know for a fact that there are tools as stated above that are a 1 size fits all socket head and they are packed with 100 or so more rivet style shafts but are actually made for this sort of thing.

Does your lock nut have ridged bumps on it or is it flat on the outside?

  • 3 months later...

I am in the same situation at the moment. Went to get some new tyres today but couldnt find the fkn key. Was not happy. I bought the tyres but did not get them fitted. Spent about 15mins looking thru the car in the shop - still didnt find it. very p!ssed off, looked like a tool. Also got done 105 in a 80 zone ($250 4 points) on the way home. Havin a top weekend !!!!

Will try and find the combination for the key - I think remember the guy at the tyre shop recording the combination of the lock nut about 18months ago when I bought it. Might give them a call on monday morning....

I dont like the idea of smashing a normal socket bit over all 4 of my rims and buying a new set of lock nuts....

ok.... i know i am retarded... :rofl: but whats this lock nut key thing ??

and wheres about does it go ? i had a look on my tyres... cant see key hole type objects... alltho the thing in the middle of the rims on my car is missing.. its like a round thing right in the middle..

perhaps it looks that thing up ??

ok.... i know i am retarded... :) but whats this lock nut key thing ??

and wheres about does it go ? i had a look on my tyres... cant see key hole type objects... alltho the thing in the middle of the rims  on my car is missing.. its like a round thing right in the middle..

perhaps it looks that thing up ??

You might not have lock nuts on your wheels?

b2_1.JPG

One of these 'special' bolts goes onto each wheel (replacing a normal nut) and the socket bit is the 'key'. Capiche?

thanks for that.. yeeah i've got those on my wheels... only problem is.. the wheels i got for my car arent standard (there for a gtr or something?) and the thing you use to unscrew em doesnt fit (there was one in the boot)... evan one of those that looks like a cross (has a differant type of bolt remover thing on each side.. forget what its called :thumbsup: ) i need one thats like EXTRA thin.. theres like 2mm between the nut and the rim

thanks for that.. yeeah i've got those on my wheels... only problem is.. the wheels i got for my car arent standard (there for a gtr or something?) and the thing you use to unscrew em doesnt fit (there was one in the boot)... evan one of those that looks like a cross (has a differant type of bolt remover thing on each side.. forget what its called :thumbsup: ) i need one thats like EXTRA thin.. theres like 2mm between the nut and the rim
Sounds like you need a 19mm spark plug socket. If you are still confused just go to your local tyre shop, they will help you. If you live in the western suburbs i could give you some assistance, just PM me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...