Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

I'm thinking about buying a half cut - then doing a converison on my R33 (RB25DE) to a RB25DET

I don't want any replies telling me to sell the car and buy a turbo 33 - because thats not what I want to do :)

I'm after any information from anyone who knows how, or has done it before. How hard is it to do? How different are the looms? Will any changes need to be made?

I was looknig at a friends RB25DET and there seems to be a shitload more stuff not only under the bonett - but also under the parcel shelf etc?

Also any info on how to remove the motor wuold be great too :D

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63667-help-rb25de-rb25det/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i think there's a very long thread on this somewhere... DAN666 did it with an r34 pretty sure.

His was a turbo bolted onto a NA i think.

As far as the conversion goes, try and get a hold of an rb25DE pinout diagram and an RB25DET pin out and wiring diagram for reference.

Then have a look at the dash plugs and power plugs in particular, if they are a straight plug in it will make life alot easier. as far as evrything elso goes about the only thing youd need to do is swap the engine mounts. All anciliarys should hook up no worries. Worst case you'd have to swap the AC and powersteering from your current engine onto the new one.

Oh this has been done to death. The simple explaination is that while it is possible it costs alot of money and even then you wont have the reliability of a factory turbo. If you have the cash to do the conversion why not buy the turbo model??? I guess you need to learn by making the mistakes yourself.

All the suff under the parcel shelf is a fuse box HICAS 4WS system and in the R33 a battery

na mate, there is more thna just that, my NA has batetry/HICAS and fuse box - I know as I relocated them for my speaker install

and when you sit down and calculate costs - it wouldn't be cheaper tos ell my car and buy a turbo version - sell my NA, lose money on it as you do with cars, buy a stock turbo without my nice buddy clubs ;)

...or maybe a non skyline engine?
Wash your mouth out!!!!!

RB25DET should drop straight into a R33 RB25DE (well it did for my RB25DET into R32). If you buy a half-cut, you will get a loom and computer to match the engine. Simple.

(hint - to replace the loom, remove the LH guard)

Wash your mouth out!!!!!

Actually this was done last year by a good friend with very very good results.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35764

managed to get a best of 233.6rwhp
[email protected] With GAS!!!!

It ended up costing less than an RB25DET conversion, but I guess going the

RB route is a little more practical.

hey aaron

hows the decision process going? turbos aint expensive

its all reatlive to power increase. turbo was designed as not so expensive way to increase acceleration power, and thats how its meant to be

you should be able to pick up gtst breaks for cheap as

i mean hey i'll sell you mine if its to help a fellow skyliner

ill sell you mine and get some dba slotted/drilled ones instead

all the parts for a turbo conversion should be able to obtain from forums, other memers, jap wreckers, repco etc

things are moving slowly, stilld eciding and getting prices etc

re the brakes - i'd hev to do a hub converison wouldn't i? from 4 stud to 5?

anyway, where it stands now I have been able to source:

stock 33 turbo + all lines etc

manifold + other intake etc bits

stock intercooler

gtst injectors

He said somewhere in the range of 650 + shipping charges, so i'd be looking at about 750-800 unless I drove down and picked them up. I thought 800 wasn't too bad - then of course i'd have to get a ECU - which wouldn't be that hard...

I have gotten a quote for a r33 halfcut <2000 + delivery charges - less than 2 grand for a frontcut is insane, i'm still trying to decide if the seller can be trusted though - otherwise i'd just grab one from JJ in brissie

I've had a htink about what exactly i want out of the car - and i don't want it to be a racer or anything, just a bit more power - i'd be happy running ~7 psi through it and do a full conversion next year - or rb30 bottom or similar

what on earth? working on an n/a vs turbo is no where a good comparsion.

any basic mods in a turbo score at least 2x or 3x the gain vs in a n/a

yeah even with support systems it cant cost that much surely

stop being anti turbo conversion just cos you have gtst and he doesnt

let him have some fun it will be fine

gatty yeah 2000 is pretty good, a place in melb had a 65,000 rb25det for $2500

so its pretty good and right on the money. also if you do get a halfcut then you can run whatever boost etc you like and wont be limited to stock boost cos of compression, plus you can mix and match the best parts of the two engines.

n/a add ecu $800 change you get 5-10rwkw

turbo add ecu $1200 change you get 25rwkw

n/a add $700 exhaust you get 5rwkw or maybe even make less power as the engine needs backflow pressure.

turbo add $800 exhaust (cos u need front/dump as well) and you get another 15rkw maybe 20rwkw and a lot better turbo spool up response

n/a add piggyback or ecu chip $300 get 5rwkw maybe 10rwkw

turbo add piggyback or ecu chip $350 and get 15rwkw

n/a add cold air intake kit $250 5rwkw maybe?

turbo add colr air intake kit $250 5rwkw maybe?

turbo add boost controller $200 15rwkw extra usually

yep, probably a bit more striaght forward also, i'm still trying to find some info on extra wiring etc that may need to be done if i turbo the current motor

and i'm no guru but working a NA compared to a turbo surely would be more expensive for the same power gains

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m here solo don’t have any hands to help so haven’t hit it with a timing light 
    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
×
×
  • Create New...