Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys just a few questions 1 is do all gtie have quad throttle body's, 2  whats a stock gtir do on the strip and on the dyno, whats the best mods to do to them to make them go

A stock Gtir does around 14.2 sec on the quarter and the best mods for them are the same as any Jap Turbo ie FMIC, dump pipe, exhaust, pod filter, ebc set at 1.2 bar, fuel pump, power FC and coil overs should get you started.

The good thing about those cars are that the stock turbo (T28) isnt limited by the ceramic exhaust turbine that skylines are, so you can push them a fair bit harder.

From my understanding all Pulsar Gtirs have quad throttle bodies and solid lifters.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64060-nissan-gtir/#findComment-1202825
Share on other sites

yes, as posted above all GTI-Rs have quad throttles and a nice steel wheel T28 which is good for up to (and sometimes just over) 180kw at all four.

A stock GTI-R will run anywhere from 14.3 down to 13.8 depending on the condition of the car, and who is driving it. on the dyno a stock GTI-R should make anywhere between 105kw atw up to 120kw atw again depending on conidtion and dyno.

best mod for your stock GTI-R is some good brake pads, good rotors and braided lines with some good fluid too. cause stock GTI-Rs are quick they just don't stop too well if the brakeing system isn't in peak condition. after that exhaust (dump, front and the rest), then some kind of high flow filter or pod with air box and cold air intake. wind up the boost to around 1 bar, and get a front mount if you want. you will now have anywhere between 140 and 165kw at all four and have a car that can do low somewhere between a high 12 and a low 13. NOTE: your clutch may now be on the way out, if so upgrade. now you'll need to make it handle properly so start with a bigger rear sway bar and replace every suspension bush you can think of with some urethane ones. now if you still have money start looking at coil-overs and most importantly get the suspension set up somewhere that knows what they are doing. now you have a very nice street car, but be aware that unless you are going to keep and enjoy it for a few years you will be dissapointed when you sell it. they are great little cars though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64060-nissan-gtir/#findComment-1202836
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...