Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well you can adjust the idle rpm by going to setting, eng rev

ignoring the map tracer does, is there anything wrong it does it sound like its idling too high or is pegging at a higher RPM for a period then returning to normal

  • 2 weeks later...
pegging at a higher RPM for a period then returning to normal

yeah it's doing that. nothing seems wrong as such, it's as though you stab the throttle a tiny bit after clutching in.. just takes a few more seconds to return to idle.

i guess i'll just deal with it, or let the tuners try to sort it out, it's not such a big deal

Hey how are ya Paul, i've had my PFC in my ECR33 series 2 for about 1yr and a half and i've noticed for a while now my car has wierd IDLE's like sometimes it will stall and it will IDLE hunt really badly, like when im in 2nd gear i put in my clutch the car feels like its going to stall but then it comes back up again. cheers bro

  • 4 weeks later...

hey dude not sure if anyone could help me but i need a power FC for an r32 skyline GTST, its my drift car and i really want some more power so thought that would b the best option. It doesnt matter if hand controller is not included

Please help as i have looked everywhere

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi All

I hv been doing my own tuning (on the road) with wideband & datalogit for the past 1 year. Running a T04E turbo which is quite laggy and will come on full boost at 4.5k rpm. Just wondering to bring up the boost faster whether it would be better to reduce timing on the low load and making it leaner on fueling or should it be another way round.

Anybody willing to share map with this kind of setup?

dial in as much IGN timing as you can handle without detonation

the more timing you can run, the more efficient the engine is, the quicker it will ramp on boost

really concentrate on the ramping area - do a map tracer / knock map and find the cells that dont knock enough and advance the timing there

Hi Paul,

You mentioned that the Power FC will emulate all other auxillary functions of the car such as aircon, ABS etc, does the Power FC also operates the airbag system? I presume that it does. If so, then can the Power FC pick up any malfunction on the airbags?

The airbag light flashing was triggered when I disconnected airbag module to re-align the steering wheel. My situation is that my airbag light keeps on flashing on the dash even after everything was plugged back in place properly. I cannot reset it using the well known method of activating the drivers door jam switch 5 times within 7 seconds of turning key to on position, as I suspect this does not work on the Power FC; and I was told that the Nissan consult cannot communicate with the Power FC for diagnostic purposes.

If the Power FC picked up the airbag fault in the first place, wouldn't by reconnecting the airbag module rectify the fault? Or does the Power FC retain memory of the fault until it is erased?

So, what is the solution to stop airbag light flashing:

1, Re-set Power FC and reload tune. Does the Power FC memorize airbag malfunction?

2, Replace Power FC with stock ECU and run diagnostic with nissan consult to make sure everything is OK

3, cut wiring to airbag light on dash; and risk driving with faulty airbags?

Please help as the light is driving me insane!!!!

Thank you

Cheers

Matt

the PFC doesnt touch or run the airbag, its a seperate stand-alone system

there is a way to run and clear the airbad diag, search on the forum by ylwgtr2 or goolge it

its a way via the opening and closing the door a number of times and then turning the car on

BNR34 airbag diagnostic clear procedure;

try this- have your drivers door open, turn the key on to ignition and within 5 seconds press the door light switch 7 times.

this will reset it.

Ok, I read over the entire FAQ, and unfortunately my question wasn't answered. I'm looking at a used R32/R33 GT-R Power FC and I can't tell if it's L-Jetro or D-Jetro.

The serial number is:

PFC GTR33 000-0062

On some others I see either L or D after the "GTR33" but this has nothing.

Can someone please help me to figure out what it is?

hi jason

the newer model includes L or D in the model # as part of the build #'s

the original first batch dont include L or D in the model string so you can't tell

the only sure way will be to plug it in and view ETC, VERSION

there is no loom difference between djetro and ljetro PFC so you won't be able to physically tell the difference

Hi Paul,

I've just attached a GM map sensor to my L-Jetro R34 GTR PFC and have discovered that there is no place to enter the new map sensor calibrations for the scale and offset.

Is this a limitation of the R34 GTR PFC, or just an option that hasnt appeared yet in the datalogit software?

Any suggestions?

Cheers,

Ian

you cant run djetro on ljetro PowerFC

the ljetro PFC only works with airflow meters and nothing more

an optional map sensor is available to be connected up as part of the boost control kit

the djetro PFC only works with map sensors and nothing more

you need to sell your PFC ljetro kit and AFMs and anything else

then purchase the djetro PFC to suit BNR34 along with the djetro harness and a pair of map sensors (you must have two)

I wasnt trying to make the ecu tunable by MAP sensor, I was just after logging and perhaps boost control on an L-jetro but using an after market map sensor.

I ended up solving the problem with the calibration of the GM map sensor by coming up with a circuit to fudge the sensor output voltage to make it compatible with the FC. I did a post up on it in the forced induction performance section. I just realised it should have probably been posted here in Modifications/FAQ.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ad...Po-t313168.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...