Jump to content
SAU Community

compliance etc on highly modified r32

heiress
 Share

Recommended Posts

heiress Contributor

heiress

Posted
Posted

The biggest issue i've been told that i will have with licencing this R32 is having an engine swap and v-mount cooler.

Anyone been through something similar? Offer me any info?

**Edit - Compliance and Engineers signoff done!!! This should mean no dramas about the 2 issues mentioned above from the pits.

  • 2 months later...
SR32 Rising Star

SR32

Posted
Posted

Just a little update...if anyone cares.

Engineers certificate a.o.k!

Went to the pits last monday and i think i got off quite lightly!

The bonnet is raised slightly, needs to be level with side pans, vents/pin holes need to be covered up.

I have to take the mech diff out...i thought i might be lucky and it wouldnt clunk when he test drove it, i was wrong :P

And I have to remove the hicas lock bar.

Almost licenced this baby! yay!

druzilla32 Mentor

druzilla32

Posted
Posted

hmm.. i have a hicas lock bar and a raised bonnet too... i also have bonnet pins..

you had to change all that just for complience on an 89 model car?????

my car is currently being complied... like always i expoect the invoice to be much more then the quote i was givin :P

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted
hmm.. i have a hicas lock bar and a raised bonnet too... i also have bonnet pins..

you had to change all that just for complience on an 89 model car?????

they are lot stricter over there, it has to go through a full inspection at the transport place before it can hit the road..

here they barely even look under the bonnet.

SR32 Rising Star

SR32

Posted
Posted

Compliance is all done. it wasnt done by a workshop, rather a highly recommended gent. I paid for the major stuff that i couldnt do (side intrusion bars, fuel neck restrictor, engineers signoff, child restraints etc) and chose to do the rest of the work myself.

SR32 Rising Star

SR32

Posted
Posted
good to see you got it all signed off!

when does it go to pits now?

good luck with it all

cheers

Adam

*takes a deep breath*

PASSED PITS TODAY!!!!!!!!!!

2nd inspection and not everything from first inspection was rectified.

Got permit for vmount, strut braces, carbon fibre bonnet etc!!!

Oh what a lovely day ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...