Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

gen 3 v8 = piece of shit

and yes i own one for 3 years and had to get new motor under warrent

oil burning piece of shit

and the one thing that give the clubsport the remotest chance of coming close is the japanise gentlemen agreement if the gtr had been limited to 208kw (like all the awesome car from japan) the commodore would not be on the same paper, why do i say this because there is no car i know of in the world that can be so easily tune for hp as the rb26 per dollar spent on it and has the suspension package std to handle it

the gtr was never designed to be 208kw(more like about 350kw in my opinion)

ie my gtr $40,000

plus ~$8,000 to $10,000 mods

=529.4rwhp 11.3sec(at 480rwhp)

find me a commodore with 400kw at the wheels with brembo brake that can be happily driven every day to work for $50,000

GOOD LUCK

yeah anyway...can we just forget about all the Skyline vs Holden crap and just get back to the topic??

if you read the thread, someone posted that he was a 23 yr old in his own car, doing 160 being followed by a cop in an SS. Someone in front of him turned and that's when he launched into the dealership..

He's lucky he didn't kill the ppl who turned, or even someone who was looking at the cars in the dealership :Oops:

gen 3 v8 = piece of shit

and yes i own one for 3 years and had to get new motor under warrent

oil burning piece of shit

and the one thing that give the clubsport the remotest chance of coming close is the japanise gentlemen agreement if the gtr had been limited to 208kw (like all the awesome car from japan) the commodore would not be on the same paper, why do i say this because there is no car i know of in the world that can be so easily tune for hp as the rb26 per dollar spent on it and has the suspension package std to handle it

the gtr was never designed to be 208kw(more like about 350kw in my opinion)

ie my gtr $40,000

plus ~$8,000 to $10,000 mods

=529.4rwhp 11.3sec(at 480rwhp)

find me a commodore with 400kw at the wheels with brembo brake that can be happily driven every day to work for $50,000

GOOD LUCK

Damn rite!

It really makes me laugh how much trouble these falcadore knuckledraggers go to in an effort to prove that their brand new low km, $70,000 dollar, car is fractionally better than someone elses $35,000 dollar car with 100,000km on the clock.

HELLO? So it bl00dy well should be!! But by a hell of a lot more than fractions of a second over a quarter mile.

If you want to know the best bang for buck car around have a look at getting hold of a sub-$10k VR4, spending about $5k on it and run deep into the twelves.

Personally I think holdens are POS and fords are not much better. 230kw from a XR6T? 4 litres with a GT40 on it blowing 6PSI?!?!? It should be making lots more boost and 400kw.

If they wanted to strangle it down to 300hp why didn't they put a GT28 on it and have it spool just off idle? How responsive would that be?!

W@nkers the lot of them.

Firstly am I ignorant, or are you afraid of the truth?  :rolleyes:  

Let's talk top of the range. HSV is Holden's top of the range vehicle. GTR is Nissan's top of the range vehicle. Stock on Stock any GTR will beat any HSV. That's a fact.

I'd have to go for a) Ignorant.

A stock GTR is SLOW. It needs about $5000 worth of mods to make it what it should have been from factory.

Any stock HSV will beat any stock R32/R33 GTR. Stock R34 GTRs which are grossly underrated, would give them a run for their money. A GTR isn't the be-all and end-all of cars. They need to be modded to be fast. By today's standards, they're slow when they're stock.

It's this kind of attitude that gives Skyline owners a "wanker" and "ricer" title.... and deservedly so.

And who wants to get '89 GTR? :P Kidding. Skylines are getting cheaper. Cheap fast cars attract all sorts of people.

I don't want an '89 GTR. I said I'm looking for an R32 GTR. See? People automatically assume that it has to be an '89 model. I blame the 15 year old rule :)

95% of the '89 GTRs I've looked at, are pieces of sh1t. Finding a good one is like trying to find a vegan in an abattoir, operating the nail gun.

I would have been more than happy paying more for an R32 GTR before the market became saturated with these GTRs that would never have passed regular compliance procedures. GTR ownership should never have fallen to a $17,000 entry fee. It's ridiculous.

That's why I said kidding. I reckon it's more to do with popularity of R33 importing. There are a lot of them and they are affordable. As to '89 GTR's - most of them would end up for sale within a year because people did not understand how expensive to maintain they can get. Besides, 15 year old rule is almost over now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...