Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

$615 is a good price for these units. 40mm is what Racepace Ben uses on his car with no problems. I think that this group buy will be cheaper than Race Radiators, as their 40mm core goes for like $650 retail.

When I spoke to PWR the best price I got was 40mm $770 and 57mm $850

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Like i said, I am not doing this for profit .. I am doing it to keep up my end of the deal.

The best price they gave me for a single unit was $770 so hence this is saving alot of people alot of money.

Cheers

Sam

Yeah, im interested in a 40mm unit for my R32 gtst (with a gtr engine if it makes any difference). Can you just bolt on the standard fan cowling though? Any other mods necessary?

hi mate, I'm interested in the 40mm radiator for an R32GTR I just have a couple of questions though.

will it bolt up using all the factory mounting hardware?

will the fans etc all still fit ok?

will the factory top and bottom hoses still be in the same position?

will the miami dolhpins win this years superbowl?

Thanks.

1. Yes it will mount up to factory hardware

2. Not sure .. but they should .. I will check .. if you wanted to upgrade fans I can get good deals ie. 16" davies Craig $195 or 16" Spal $295

3. Yes

4. They better .. or i'll be .. well i don't really care .. so I'll just say yes.

Thanks mate. if you could check up on the positioning of the thermo's and engine fan that would be great (i'm guessing they should be ok).

WHEN YOU DEPOSIT PUT YOUR USERNAME followed by Radiator.

IE: GTLimited - Rad.

or GTLimited - Oil. Cooler

Anywhooo ..

Name: Robert Fisher

BSB: 124-021

Account Number: 93200013

Bank: Bank of Queensland

Note: These are somethings i have learnt from organising oher group buys in the past and i will be implementing them.

**Your order will not be sent in until all monies are recieved.

** If for any unknown reason to me the price goes up or it does not meet yor requirments (BEFORE ITS SENT MADE) then you will be given the option of the new price or a full refund.

** Its the purchasers responsibility to tell me what they want

** E-MAIL me a recipt number and your postal details as soon as you depoist the money and keep a printed copy of the transaction

The cut off date for payments will be IN THE ACCOUNT BY the 31st, March 2005.

You can deposit a minimum of $200 before that date to secure your place, however if they make your radiator and i can't sell it to anyone else .. your deposit will be forfeited.

Cheers

Sam

Interested to hear how these went, as a friend had to doubel check a few things to make sure that his (wasnt PWR bit still 40mm) cleared the power steering etc etc.

Id be interested if i could be sure it bolts in, and has aluminium lugs/tabs as per the std radiator so is literally a bolt on

Sorry guys for the lack of update I never recieved the e-mail that said there has bee a post.

The order has been made. and there was a delay with manufacturing as they had to compleyete an extra 120 radiator order to the USA within a week and a half.

If you have any qquiries feel free to reply here and if i don't reply with in 2 days send me an e-mail.

but I'll keep you guys posted anyway.

Cheers

Sam

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...